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Any ideas for 80 GT B21F No-start? 200 1980

Hi all...... It has been a while since I've been on this board. I have an 80 (242)GT with B21F, Kjet, Bosch ignition. It seems to not want to start in damp weather, especially after a couple of days of it. I know that the usual suspects are High-voltage leaks caused by moisture. I sprayed "wire-dryer" spray on the sparkplug wires and main coil wires, and also on distrib cap. I even tried spraying the inside of the cap and wiping it dry (it appeared clean, without carbon trails). The cap and wires are about 4 years old, I think; I replaced them once. Are there any other ideas that come to mind that anyone might have?? Thank you!








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Any ideas for 80 GT B21F No-start? 200 1980

sounds like you need a new wiring harness. this is a very common problem on 240's - From Dave Barton's Wiring Harness Page, which is currently down...

A Little History
"The factory original Volvo harnesses installed during the 1980 through 1988 model years started to disintegrate after a few years of exposure to engine heat. The vinyl protective sheathing would get hard and brittle and begin to crack... this is not the major offense though and a hardened outer sheath will not directly affect performance... but it is a symptom you'll recognize in an old harness. The bad part is that the insulation on the wires began to get soft and would crumble away, eventually leaving exposed wires to short out and cause all kinds of problems with electronic systems. This problem was accelerated in turbocharged cars due to the much higher heat conditions in the engine bay. For whatever reason, this problem did not seem to plague pre-1980 Volvos, nor the 1988 and later cars, which all seemed to have good wire insulation. It is my understanding that Volvo was able to correct the problem by the 1988 model year."

Recognizing the Problem
"Typical deterioration of an original Volvo engine harness in a car manufactured between 1980 and 1987 would usually become obvious when some of the visible wires on top of the engine lost their insulation. This loss of insulation is most likely caused by years of exposure to engine heat. Turbocharged cars often have accelerated harness deterioration. On 240's you would probably first see evidence of deterioration on the wires going to a gray rectangular 8-pin connector near the firewall or on wires going to or near the alternator. On 740's you might see damage at these gray 8-pin connectors too (they're near the fenders) as well as the ground wires or fuel injector wires near the top of the intake manifold"

"If your '80 to '87 Volvo still has the original harness and you don't yet see any such obvious damage yet, please don't be too confident and think you got off lucky. I have inspected thousands of 1980 through '87 Volvo harnesses in wrecking yards and elsewhere, and unless the car had very few miles, the original harnesses pretty much went bad 100% of the time. This often happens in places where it is not so obvious too, such as deep inside the protective vinyl covers of the harness. If you have one of these Volvos, this could very well be the cause of intermittent failures. These harnesses connect to such components as the engine sensors, alternator, starter motor, fuel injectors, throttle position switch, idle control valve, mass air sensor, fuel pump relay, oxygen sensor, ground points, control pressure regulator and cold start injector."

According to dave, it costs 300-400$ depending on where you buy it, volvo retail for your car is $406. Part# 9139228.

hope that helps










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Any ideas for 80 GT B21F No-start? 200 1980

"seems to not want to start"

Is there a good hot spark at the plugs?
Is it cranking for long periods without firing?
Is it sputtering and trying to start but can't quite get going?
Hows the compression?
Are there any vacuum leaks?
If you jumper the fuel pump relay to pressurize the system before cranking, is there a difference?








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Any ideas for 80 GT B21F No-start? 200 1980

Hi, 81 242-- Thank you for the ideas. I meant that the car cranks for a long time without firing, when damp. At times, i have had it sputtering, before breaking into smooth running. [Earlier on Thursday], I managed to run down the battery, and had to take it inside to charge it. When I put it back in, the car had a few seconds of cranking, then started up nicely (it was cloudy out, but no rain during the day). It started and ran fine all eve.

I assume compression is good, as it runs smoothly, and recently good good numbers for emissions at inspection... (?)

I have not tried jumpering the fuel pump to pre-pressurize things, like you say. Are you wondering if residual fuel pressure is leaking overnight? I have wondered if I should try this. I heard if I run a jumper between fuse 5 and 7 (pre- and main fuel pump fuses), it will run the pump. Is that correct? I will think about vacuum leaks, too......








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Any ideas for 80 GT B21F No-start? 200 1980

other ideas yes the coil, wires, cap, rotor if dampness








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Any ideas for 80 GT B21F No-start? 200 1980

Hi, Jay..... I ended up buying cap, rotor, and wires, and may install them, even though the existing ones LOOK ok...








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Any ideas for 80 GT B21F No-start? 200 1980

It's probably the wires that need replacing. They crack with age allowing moisture to provide alternate paths for the spark.
--
1980 245 Canadian B21A with SU carb and M46 trans








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Any ideas for 80 GT B21F No-start? 200 1980

I'd suspect the wiring, too, but you might want to pay particular attention to the wires running to the pick-up coil in the distributor, assuming your model has that. There's usually a light protectice cap under the rotor, make sure no moisture is lingering in there or around where the wires go in. Are the distributor cap clips holding it on tight?
--
'81 GLT 245 W/245K; '83 DL 175K







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