the older CPR on your car is set up for extra cold engine enrichment when in boost to prevent hesitation when the engine is cold. It does this through the intake vacuum line connected to it.
The later intercooled CPR does not have this function, and thats why there is not a vacuum line connected to it. It does have altitude compensation. The older type of regulator does not. The cold boost enrichment on the intercooled is through the black switch with the vacuum line near the brake booster. The switch momentarily closes when the turbo boosts and the engine is cold. The switch grounds terminal 11. This is what terminal 11 was actually for.
I would stick with your original CPR, because your car probably does not have the wiring for terminal 11, and then you can use it for the teminal 11 trick.

You have to either dial up the overpressure switch under the dash, or replace it with the intercooled one. Otherwise that switch will shut down the fuel pump when you increase the boost. Replacing it is easier than adjusting it.

Also if you are just planning to stay at the stock intercooled boost get the wastgate actuator off the turbo. This should give you the stock intercooled boost.

The solenoid switch near the Kjet increases the boost even more above 3700 rpm. It does this by bleeding air off from the wastegate line and dumping it back in to the turbo inlet(thats your second connection). Most people don't bother adding this. I'm not sure you car would have the wiring harness for it. It runs down the drivers fender and under the radiator, and over to the switch.
Most turbobricks people seem to use manual or electronic boost controlers if they want more boost. If you decide not to try to install the solenoid plug the second hole in the turbo intake.

What type of bypass valve. 240s never had one. 740s had them.

Skip's post is very good, but I'll try to add what I can.
The charge air switch on the firewall just above the valve cover does not change, it simply richens the mixture above 2-3lbs of boost in both IC & non-IC cars. This is the blue & yellow switch.
The solenoid valve is a pretty shady system for raising boost in my opinion, I use a manual boost controller instead. Gus's Turbo Chrysler site should have the info, if it is still up. I have mine wired to a switch so I only run 10lbs when I want, and 6lbs the rest of the time, better on gas mileage.
The valve of sorts near the brake booster is probably the cold acceleration enrichment valve. It grounds terminal 11 of the ECU when the car is cold and vaccum drops quickly, like when you open the throttle. It takes the place of the vaccum lines and delay valve on the older control pressure regulator (079 or 123). The Bentley manual has a great description of the two systems. It would take me all day to explain the whole thing, but essentially you can leave your system as it is or change to the new system. You will need to change the control pressure regulator to the 128 version, add the vaccum enrichment valve to the line leaving the wax thermostat, add a wire from the switch to terminal 11, and that's about it. It is more painful than it sounds.
No idea what the smaller vaccum line is in the line between airbox and the turbo.
The vaccum switch above the brake pedal is the overboost switch that kills the fuel pump above a certain pressure, you'll want to intercooled version.
The vaccum line going to the wastegate should come from the intake manifold side of the intercooler pricing. You will get a pressure drop across the intercooler, and you want to monitor the boost pressure going into the motor more than the boost pressure coming out of the turbo. 700 series (Garrett)turbos and most other Garrett turbos should have a plug on the turbine housing where the 90deg fitting is on ours.
Adding a CBV is a personal choice ;) There are several methods, here's a link to a pic of mine, using the Porsche 933/924 air cut-off valve: (apologies for the Geocities ads, still haven't bothered to find webhosting)
http://www.geocities.com/neptune242t/neptune/cbv.jpg

Good luck
--
1981 242 GLTi 1967.5 122S
Seattle, WA

Hi there,

I can't help you with your question, but I can direct you where to go for more advice... www.turbobricks.com

go to the performance section.

Beware though.... they tend to be very clique-ish.

Mike

I'll answer what I can. The overboost switch in inside over the clutch. It should be changed since what is overboost for a non I/C car is fine for an I/C one. Using the solenoid valve is optional. It prevents the excess boost from coming in until over 3750 rpm. A lot of folks remove it or don't even install it. BTW, the valve is connected to the smaller hole in the i/c pipe which, of course will need to be plugged. The switch on the firewall in the center (may be the one you describe as near the booster) richens the mixture at just a few pounds of boost. I don't think it needs to be changed. The vacuum switch on the brake assembly is for the cruise control. The line over the radiator does go to the wastegate and is where you would install a mbc. The terminal 11 trick is worth doing, details on Turbobricks. A neat trick I learned recently is to use the switch built into early boost gauges to ground term 11. One the back of early gauges are 2 spade connectors. As set up from the factory, it provides a ground to light the TURBO warning light at high boost. It is not part of the fuel cutoff but happens at about the same pressure. Later gauges do not have the switch(or the light). Earlier gauges have switches that close at either 10 psi(non i/c) or 14 psi (i/c). I had to hunt around but I did find an early non i/c gauge that I use to ground term 11 at 10 psi. Works like a champ. A good way to identify the i/c boost gauges is the broader yellow range. I have heard that the switches are not reliable but that's not been my experience. Test with a bicycle pump and multimeter to be sure. As with all boost enhancements, make sure you do not lean out the mixture. A a/f ratio gauge is important.

Skip
'93 850GLT
'83 242TI Flathood