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Hi. Please help.
I have a 1988 740 Turbo (B230FT) which blew out every front seal. Replaced the seals along with new timing belt, plugs, wires, and distributor.
Got everything hooked back up. Started it up. Runs awful. Can't get the timing set right. Adjusting the distributor puts the pulley marks between 50-80 degrees. But timing for the car should be at 12 degrees. I triple checked the camshaft and crankshaft locations and they are dead on. It seems like if I could turn the distributor a quarter of a turn the timing would line up. I never took out the distributor shaft. Why won't the timing line up?
Also, the oil pressure is still too high. I took off the oil cap and there is no suction in the hole. The "cap test" resulted in the cap just dancing all around instead of quitely sitting on the valve cover hole. The engine does not have a flame trap so why the high pressure? If I don't get it fixed the seals will just blow out again.
Please offer any suggestions you might have re: the oil vapor pressure and the timing situation. I am losing faith.
Thanks
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Recheck your ignition wire sequence: 1-3-4-2.
Wires to the distributor cap are in sequence right to left, when viewed from the front of the engine: 2-1-3-4.
If this does not set it right, you should recheck the timing belt.
Good Luck,
Dan
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"Wires to the distributor cap are in sequence right to left, when viewed from the front of the engine: 2-1-3-4."
Dan,
My 940 wires, when viewed from the front (Right-to-Left) are 3-1-2-4 (4-2-1-3 L-to-R), and the car runs fine(?). I thought I had saved a Gallery photo on this, but can't find it now,
Bruce
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Bruce Young
'93 940-NA (current) — 240s (one V8) — 140s — 122s — since '63.
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Bruce,
You sure had me scratcing my head with the order you posted, not that thinking is a bad thing. I rechecked the wireing on my car and it as I stated.
Maybe we are not looking at it from the same perspective. Let me take another stab at it. Label the towers from the drivers side (right) towards the Passenger side (left) A-B-C-D. Look into the interior of the distributor cap and view the four contacts as a clock face:
1:00 contact to tower A: Cylinder 2
5:00 contact to tower B: Cylinder 1
8:00 contact to tower C: Cylinder 3
11:00 contact to tower D: Cylinder 4
The rotor is rotating clockwise through the sequence described. Please let me know if I am loosing my mind. If so, I'll just write it off to a senior moment.
Dan
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Dan,
Afraid it was my senior moment. I got off track at your first post, where you said,
"Wires to the distributor cap are in sequence right to left, when viewed from the front of the engine: 2-1-3-4.", not realizing you meant the CAR's right to left.
I pictured myself standing at the front, looking at the cap, and knew the #4 tower was on MY left (the car's right). It was all downhill from there.
Then, when counting my wires, I confused plug wires 2 and 3, adding to my addled analysis.
I'm still looking for an interior shot of that cap, which I believe I once saw in one of the Gallery sections (may have been Cars, not Technical) in case this comes up again (pic=1000 words). I did find one of the outside, but towers are mis-numbered 1-2-3-4, with 4 & 3 being correct.
Bruce
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Bruce Young
'93 940-NA (current) — 240s (one V8) — 140s — 122s — since '63.
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I would vote for a separated harmonic balancer- crank pulley for possible drastic misalignment of timing marks. May have to go to the crank timing sprocket (requiring removal of lower timing cover, all that fun stuff) to be sure timing belt is on correctly.
The cam is keyed to the distributor, so the timing of the ignition will be right if the cam is right, obviously +/- the adjustment of the distributor slots.
The 88 is still adjustable by turning the distributor body- it's LH 2.2 not 2.4 injection.
The breather problem, I'm thinking it could be the breather box and it could be plugged vacuum fittings on the intake manifold. Remove the vacuum hose to the flame trap and see if it's clear, and poke something through the brass nipple at the intake as well. It can't work if it's blocked up, and I had this problem last year with my 87 240. Works great now that it's cleared out.
Good luck with it.
--
Rob Bareiss, New London CT ::: '87 244DL/M47- 234K, '82 245T/M46-182K, '89 244DL/AW70- 212K Not too distant past: 86 244DL 215K, 87 244DL 239K, 88 744GLE 233K, 88 244GL 147K, 91 244 183K
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Thanks for the information.
Which vacuum lines specifically are you referring to? This engine has no flame trap... at lease not one I can find. And all the research I have done states there are no flame traps on the turbo. I was hoping this was not the case, as it seemed like it would be an easy fix.
And Re: the timing... I chose to line up the crankshaft with the little notch on the timing belt sprocket... not the notches on the belt pulley. When I line up the notch with the mark on the motor and verify the piston location with the spark plug out it's dead on TDC and the pulley marks are easily visible within the 0-20 degree cover gauge. (Does that make sense?)
Thanks... keep the info coming...
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The vacuum line you are looking for it the small upper-most line on the intake manifold. This is the line that provides vacuum for the crankcase ventilation system.) Remove the line, and remove the brass nipple -- I think it requires a 10mm wrench. Most likely, the nipple AND the vacuum hose are plugged solid. Use a small drill bit or a nail to unclog the nipple, and get a new lenght of vacuum hose. I found some great brown/orange silicone vacuum hose at Napa. It's much better than the Volvo rubber stuff. It comes pre-packaged in 8 or 10 foot lengths. It's good stuff to have around when you're working on cars.
That should take care of your crankcase pressure problem.
Jeff Pierce
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'93 945 Turbo ( one kickass family car ! ), '92 Mercedes 190E (my daily driver), '53 Willys-Overland Pickup (my snow-plow truck/conversation piece -- sold to a loving home), '85 Jeep CJ-7 w/ Fisher plow
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Forgot to add...
I thought about the harmonic balancer being the problem... but here is my observation.
I would think if the balancer was off at least the car would run well... even if the marks don't line up. But the car runs horribly regardless of the distributor location. The only was it won't die is by having the distributor all the way to one side (the side that happens to bring the marks toward to 12 degree mark on the pulley.
Also, the marks aren't "walking" or varying. When the timing light is on, the marks are consistent in location (the location just happens to be about 40 degrees off the mark.
Thanks
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Forgot to add...
I thought about the harmonic balancer being the problem... but here is my observation.
I would think if the balancer was off at least the car would run well... even if the marks don't line up. But the car runs horribly regardless of the distributor location. The only way it won't die is by having the distributor all the way to one side (the side that happens to bring the marks toward to 12 degree mark on the pulley.
Also, the marks aren't "walking" or varying. When the timing light is on, the marks are consistent in location (the location just happens to be about 40 degrees off the mark.
Thanks
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Forgot to add...
I thought about the harmonic balancer being the problem... but here is my observation.
I would think if the balancer was off at least the car would run well... even if the marks don't line up. But the car runs horribly regardless of the distributor location. The only was it won't die is by having the distributor all the way to one side (the side that happens to bring the marks toward to 12 degree mark on the pulley.
Also, the marks aren't "walking" or varying. When the timing light is on, the marks are consistent in location (the location just happens to be about 40 degrees off the mark.
Thanks
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the distributor i dont know. .. i understood (aka read here) that the timing isnt adjustable on a b230ft...but hey others WILL know better...
oil presure, either you have monumental blow by or your PCV (flametrap system) is blocked...see the FAQ section above...its all detailed...
LIKELYHOOD is blocked flametrap &/or breather box (just fit a new breather box...)
clasic sign is blown out front and or rear seals....
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Thanks for the help... not to sound too ignorant but where is the breather box on this engine and is there a way to test it.
Much appreciated,
Jim
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My goof on "reading the rotor" and refitting the distributor. I overlooked the 700 designation.
Maybe the Harmonic Balancer is slipping and timing marks are off?
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Bruce Young
'93 940-NA (current) — 240s (one V8) — 140s — 122s — since '63.
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You may have goofed on the intermediate shaft/pulley. Here's a quick check with engine off:
1) Get Crank and Camshaft at 0° TDC for Cylinder #1
2) Remove the distributor cap, rotor, and dust shield
3) Locate the small notch in the distributor body, at the #1 wire location
4) Put the rotor back on and compare its position to the notch mark
The center line of the rotor should be about 5/16" PAST (CW rotation) the mark. This is because the mark represents 0°, but the distributor timing is nominally 12° Advanced. So the rotor would have been at the mark 12° "ago" (before 0°), and should now (at 0°) be beyond the mark .
If it's way off (and crank and cam match), you be able to pull and reinsert the distributor to get it in time using the rotational adjustment.
--
Bruce Young
'93 940-NA (current) — 240s (one V8) — 140s — 122s — since '63.
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Thanks Bruce.
By saying the INTERMEDIATE PULLEY I assume you are referring to the notched pulley between the camshaft and crankshaft. If that is the case, I read in the Haynes manual for this car that the alignment of that pulley was not critical. Is that not true? And how does that pulley affect the distributor.
Mind you, you are much more knowledgable about this stuff than I am...
I will check out the distributor like you said to. Thanks for your help. Please clarify the intermediate pulley thing if I'm not reading you correctly.
Jim
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Jim,
Forget what I said. I must have had a senior brain fart, and was thinking 200—not 700. What I said is true only for 200. Please forgive my blunder.
Bruce
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Bruce Young
'93 940-NA (current) — 240s (one V8) — 140s — 122s — since '63.
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Not a problem Bruce. I was hoping you were on to something. Being new to the whole Volvo thing, I've quickly learned there are so many variations in the same model of car it's next to impossible to keep them all straight.
I appreciate your help.
Jim
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