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Dismanttling my rear end: 1965 121 2-door 120-130

posted by  SebCH on  Mon Oct 11 06:56 CST 2004
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last visit: Fri Feb 19 06:25 CST 2010
[RELATED]

Hi all, I think it's high time for me to take care of my rear axle! The diff is still quite sound but the bearings are shot! What I want to do is to remove the halfshafts, change bearings and seals, paint the whole unit and back on the car. I went through the Haynes procedure and cannot make out how to manage the damn thing without the special tool called "SV 02204". Is there a place on the web where one can find the specs of all (or part of) the volvo tools to have them custom mabe (I have acces to a machine shop), or is there a way to take these shafts out without any special tool?
Thanks for your help! Bye, Séb








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    Dismanttling my rear end: 1965 121 2-door 120-130

    posted by  someone claiming to be mrhuntnpeck on  Mon Oct 11 19:09 CST 2004 [RELATED]

    I did mine this summer so it is still fresh in my mind.
    I made a tool to spread the case. I just uploaded a picture of it here.

    the guts will pull out pretty easily once the axle shafts are removed.
    the tool is to spread the axle when re assembling.
    The differential is designed to have about .006" extra shims according to the haines manual.
    you get the backlash just right and once everything looks good add .003 to each side. This is supposed to provide some preload. you might get away without preloading it. I took mine all apart once and did it by just putting as much behind it as I could get.

    if you take it out you can also flip the two spider gears over. the ones that line up with the ends of the axle shafts. you push the pin out and rotate the whole assy 180 degrees. this makes the drive side of these gears into the driven side. the drive side wears more. the gears push against the drive side when accellerating , and the driven side when decellerating. leave the other two alone. this won't make a huge diffeence, just a tiny bit.

    I replaced all the bearings (obtained new timken bearings from a bearing retailer) and changed the crown and pinion. I had a new one that was lower geared. 4.56 rather than the 4.11 This was alot of work and you do need to take your time and be picky to get it right. the bearings on the outer end of the axles were a little more expensive than the others, because the inner races are tapered.

    phil








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      Dismanttling my rear end: 1965 121 2-door 120-130

      posted by  SebCH on  Mon Oct 11 22:53 CST 2004
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      last visit: Fri Feb 19 06:25 CST 2010
      [RELATED]

      Hi Phil and thanks for the input! I'm not sure I'll take the whole thing apart since the diff is still quiet. Nervertheless, I'm interested in seeing the tool you made for the day I'll have to take it out (and back in...). Bu I couldn't figure out where the uploaded picture is. Am I doing sth wrong? Thanks, Séb








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        Dismanttling my rear end: 1965 121 2-door 120-130

        posted by  someone claiming to be mrhuntnpeck on  Tue Oct 12 18:51 CST 2004 [RELATED]

        I can't figure out where that pic went either. I uploaded it to the image library ( the link below in the reply to box ) i am kind of new here and I can't seem to find it .

        one more thing. the shims will have to be set up properly after you reinstall the diff. they are behind the backing plates. you need to set this up using a dial indicator. it took me a while to get it spot on and everything needs to be clean. also I found rust inside the axle shafts. it seems the oil doesen't touch the top of the axle tube. (not when the car is parked anyway) it took some doing to get it really clean in there.
        at first i thought i might be able to replace all the parts with the axle in the car. nooo way. too much crawling around. you do realize you have to take all the back brakes apart etc, right? the axle shafts won't come through the backing plates. by the time you go this far you might consider either doing the whole job, or just swapping axles.

        BTW the brake cables were seized. I replaced them they weren't too expensive.
        and i was lucky enough to find a "real" brake shop that could reline the shoes, turn the drums, and then arc the shoes to fit the drums. thy charged me about 100.00 to do all that. super deal I thought, so i gave them a spare set just so I have spare parts for 20 years down the road, optimism or crazyness? I figured it was a gamble that I would be able to find a shop that does this in a few . i rebuilt the calipers too. made stainless steel pistons myself. that was a project. you can buy the pistons online if you arent as stubborn as me.

        you can get a good idea of how much slop it has by jacking one back wheel up , putting it in gear and rocking the free wheel back and forth. do this with the cover off to observe the gears clicking back and forth. you might try this test at the junk pile before diving in to rip out an already badly worn axle.
        roughly speaking when it it set up nice you might move the edge of the tire 1/4"if it is in real good shape. an inch or two shows a bunch of backlash somewhere.

        this lash acts like a hammer every time you lift the accellerator, or drop the clutch. the further the hammer swings, the harder the hammering action shocks everything. it bugged me when I was just kind of driving slow. I find the clunking back and forth annoying , that's why i went to the extent mine wasn't noisy.
        phil







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    Dismanttling my rear end: 1965 121 2-door 120-130

    posted by  SebCH on  Mon Oct 11 10:52 CST 2004
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    last visit: Fri Feb 19 06:25 CST 2010
    [RELATED]

    So that's all?? good news! Thanks for the tips!
    Anyone knows which type of bearing I should get for this particular rear end model? I see in Haynes there were two different types.
    Thanks again and CU! Séb








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    Dismanttling my rear end: 1965 121 2-door 120-130

    uid 779's pic
    posted by  matt b on  Mon Oct 11 07:19 CST 2004
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    last visit: Tue Oct 14 16:33 CST 2014
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    Chances are that its the outer bearings that are shot... which means you don't have to pull the spider gear carrier, htough it might not be a bad idea, but than you gotta get the the lash perfect, which, unless you *really* know what you are doing, is something best left to professionals.

    But to do the outer bearings, you just gotta get teh axles out... is that what the special tool is for? Cuz you don't need it for that.

    Just pull the drums, pull the brake backing plates, figure out a way to hook a big slide hammer to the end of the axle and pull it out.

    If you don't have or can't find a suitable slide hammer, re-install the brake drum (or preferable an old drum) loosely but with the nut on there, and gently tap with a copper or lead hammer until it pops out.

    -Matt
    --
    -Matt '70 145s, '65 1800s, '66 122s wagon, others inc. '53 XK120 FHC








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    Dismanttling my rear end: 1965 121 2-door 120-130

    posted by  Bennie on  Mon Oct 11 07:10 CST 2004
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    last visit: Wed Nov 28 03:03 CST 2007
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    That tool is SVO 2204. It's a basically a rod which is to be attached to the halfshaf. There is a weight on it with axial movement so you can 'knock' out the halfshaft. You don't need it at all.

    After removing the backing plate behind the drums, put on a drum again and sucure it hand tight with the locking nut. Tap on the drum form the 'inside' of the axle and the half shaft will pop out.

    Good luck, cheers, ben
    --
    P131, '65, B20B+M47. P131, '69, B20E+AW71L+LSD. (www.tinustechniek.tk)







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