A couple of months ago I broke my foot in several places (ouch!) and have had to drive an automatic since then. The cast is finally coming off in a couple more weeks and I'm tired of putting gas in the pickup I'm driving but do not have the upmost confidence in my ability to stomp on the brakes on the 122 if need be. Seeing fidel's post and the 140 booster got me thinking about putting a booster on the 122. I want nothing to do with the original ones or the Lockheed replacements, either. I've seen some photos of Amazons with the thin 140 booster or the fat 1800 unit in place but can't find them at the moment. The biggest issue would seem to be mounting it to the pedal box, but that aside, any guidance or photos for reference to scrutinize?

Thanks.
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Justin 66 122E
Read vclassics tech!

Hi, sory to hijack the thread here but what problems would arise if i wanted to fit a compleat cylinder and booster to my 122, would the preassure ratios (between the master and slave cylinders) be ok? will it mate to the pedal?
Kind regards, luke

Justin,

The first picture shows the master brakecylinder as you know it..




This picture shows the late 130-models ('69-'70):
Dualcircuit brakebooster and clutch-cable..
The booster/master is the same as in the 140-series and there shouldn't be any big problems installing in a early 120-130. As you can see the car-body is slightly different, but the booster-flange-holes only needs to be filed a bit to fit. -hereof it's as you already have done -circuit 1 to front wheels and circuit 2 to rearaxel..




This is a Volvo-improved (!) other way around!
It takes some small effort in making, but is as stated, improved by Volvo. Find a working booster from a 140 and remember when you take it out, to have all the pins i.e. to connect to the pedal. Should be fairly easy - and only "unoriginal" thing is the little bracket for mounting - must be apr. 12 mm.
I can't give a total explanation, haven't done it myself, but according to the article, the only thing else is changed is the washer in the mastercylinder and some adjusting the pins..
(Hopefully you get the point..)




Anyway - the point is, to get brakebooster not "online" but before actual brakeline -I figure was your concern with the "aftermarket ones" (thou the where installed by Volvo originaly)

Thank you very much. This is quite helpful. One question, though; are you saying the 140 booster bracket needs to be ground down to fit on the 122 pedal box? Or, go from this rectangular form:


to this triangular one?:


Thanks.
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Justin 66 122E
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Oh, you got me!

Again its because here in scandinavia, the late 220-130 models where with dualcircuit..
You point is well taken! -You need to redo the bracket so that it fits - everything else is the same.

Thanks for being awake!

/Soren

Hi Justin,

Your '66 122 is single circuit brake-line, but no problem:

Find a nice brakebooster AND cylinder (complete) from a late B20 122s model or the 140-series.

With a little drilling-up the mounting-holes in the mastercylinder-bracket - it will easily fit the mounting-holes in the car-body.
Run circuit 1 from the master to your front-wheels and the circuit 2 to your back-wheels. It will really give you a nice braking - and still keep your 122 in relatively original condition..

Here in Denmark, it is an approved construction - approved by safety-inspections, wich I believe are among the more strict ones..

Actually, -if you're able to find a brake-booster and mastercyl. from a 260 model, your braking will be better than a brand new car.. It is also approved here, done the same way, in for instance 122's with a Rover V8.. :-)

For more info, you are welcome to email me.. (Anyone is!)

/Soren

Hey Justin,
Glad your foot is getting better enough to think about driving the 122... Your picture looks rather painful.

As for the brakes though, I really don't know. I'd think perhaps that you'd need to use the 140 or 1800 master cyl as well, which would mean dual circuit, changing lines, etc, etc.... That would get into a lot of work.

But what about taking the rubber pad off the brake pedal, drilling a few holes and mounting some sort of downward extension that you can mash with your heel rather than the ball of you foot if you really need to lock 'em up....?

Just a thought. Good luck, and hope that foot's back to full soon!

-Matt
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-Matt '70 145s, '65 1800s, '66 122s wagon, others inc. '53 XK120 FHC

Not a bad idea, really. I should look to see if the pedal swing will allow for that without hitting the floor.

A couple winters ago I put a dual circuit master cylinder from a 140 on the 122 and plumbed it as Soren described. Nothing fancy but at least that part's done if I elect to put on a booster. Who knows if I'll actually do it, but I was out in the garage looking longingly at the 122 and thinking that I've put all of about zero miles on it in 2 months. Sigh...
--
Justin 66 122E
Read vclassics tech!

Well hell...
What the heck. If you've already got a 140 master in there, all you need to do is stick a booster on. I say do it right away.

Of course, you might need the smaller diameter booster... and teh appropriate master cyl to fit. Would be interesting to know how it works...

I may well be the last one around these parts with an original remote booster on my 122 that works. Noticable difference, but nothing like a later booster.

-Matt
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-Matt '70 145s, '65 1800s, '66 122s wagon, others inc. '53 XK120 FHC

Ohh..

Maybe I misunderstood something..

Anyway,
- I was describing putting in a complete booster (meaning, booster and mastercyl.) -there shouldn't be any problems regarding the mounting to pedal-arm.

As I read it - you have "just" put in the mastercyl. from a dual-circuit?

I will try tomorrow (it's at my toolshop) to find a picture and describtion from my club-magazine..
The article is "Changing from single-circuit to dual-circuit"..

/Soren

Er, there is no such thing in the US as a dual circuit braked 120 in the way we understand it in Europe.

The US versions had a very strange version. Dual circuit master cylinder in the position of the single circuit cylinder. This little lot is mated to PV style wagner self servoing rear brakes.

Indeed no factory B20 cars there...

Regards


Pete

Pete,

Now THAT helps out the "misunderstanding" from my part!.. :-)

I didn't think of that! -I just went on thinking my european-way!..

Anyway, that makes it easy then: It IS pretty easy to install the complete booster/mstercyl. from an early 140 into your 122S's!..

Got to get that article scanned and translated..

Well, in Europe the P130/P220 (only 2 door in '69 and '70 and the wagon only in '69) came with a dual-circuit brakebooster (same as in the 140) and B20 engine..

Thanks Pete!..

/Soren

Soren,

Yes, I installed a dual circuit master about 18 months ago.



When considering a 140 booster the question I have is whether I will need an adapter bracket for the booster to mount it to the pedal box. The extension for the 140 seems like it would have to be adapted to fit on the little 122 box. A visual aid would be wonderful and much appreciated if you happen to find it.

Thanks.
--
Justin 66 122E
Read vclassics tech!

Justin,

I will find the articel and re-write it.. hang on, maybe during the weekend!

Cheers!

/Soren

That would be delightful. Thank you very much.
--
Justin 66 122E
Read vclassics tech!

Oh.. by the way, -the little bracket for mounting the mastercylinder to the pedal is ajustable - maybe you could "lift" the pedal a bit up that way?
/Soren