I have had a vacuum leak for about 2 weeks. I sprayed some brake cleaner around the injectors. When I hit number four, it smoothed right out. I bought the seal kits to do them all. I started in on the project this morning and got scared that I would break an injector trying to get the fuel rail off. I was pulling on it with no luck. I called the local shop and they agreed to take it in and replace them.

I got a call in the afternoon. The injector seals were replaced but there was a misfire in the engine. I then asked to speak with the mechanic and he said the intake manifold gasket was shot. I cursed and ordered ANOTHER one, this time from a discount Volvo dealer.

My question. Does an intake manifold gasket (the last one I had put on was from IPD) last more than 9-12 months?

The mechanic said the other gasket was probably put on incorrectly. My old mechanic was an ex-Volvo mechanic and I watched/helped him do the work.

Is it possible for one to break in 9-12 months? I remember it being "green" in color. I know I bought it from IPD. I am just REALLY confused about the whole thing.

Thanks in advance.

Todd :-)

Well, if the "new" gasket was put on without the mating surfaces being really clean, yes it could be leaking. however, the chances of the thing just blowing without any outside causes is very slim. Those gaskets aren't all that expensive, and they aren't all that hard to put on though, so I might think it's worth just doing it. Make sure everything is really clean and there are no problems. Well, good luck anyways,

Nate Gundy
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'86 240DL sedan, 260K miles, M46, K cam, 25/23mm sways, 260 front and wagon rear springs; http://valvespringcompressor.weblogs.us/

I think if they are put on properly they pretty well last forever. You can't expect to be able to dismantle the manifold and reuse the gasket of course - they invariably come to pieces leaving some bits stuck to the manifold and some to the block. The secret of successful installation is in cleaning the mating faces very thoroughly, but without scratching them. You need to painstakingly remove all debris and old paste from round the studs, use a proper sealer, and torque it down correctly.
If you think you might want to remove it soon - eg to get access to a sensor or the black sludge box, you can use sealant on one face and grease on the other. That way it sticks firmly to say the block, but comes free from the manifold.