I am still having charging problems and am wondering if there is a way to bypass the alternator idiot light to test if the problem stems from there.

i'm new to this volvo thing, but in the past few weeks i've learned that you can do that. after the 2nd alternator still didn't charge, i figured that the dash printed circuit board was faulty, so tapped off fuse #12 (the real light comes off #13, but #12 is the same size and is powered from the same lead), ran 14 guage wire to a small light bought at the local auto parts store, ran it through a new hole i poked in the big rubber plug in the firewall, along the firewall and pass. side fender and down to the alt. that did the job, but if you check back a week or so for some earlier posts of mine, you'll see that i had other problems. today the alternator light would not go out (again) so i began looking at other causes. check your wires coming from the large gray connector in the mid-top of the firewall. my daughter's were, literally, bare. i now have a complete understanding of the term "biodegradable wiring harness". i haven't fully explored this, but i believe the batt and oil pressure lights run through that harness -- that means you'll have to replace that wire, anyway.
btw, if you haven't picked up on this yet: the alternator gets its initial excitement from the light; therefore the light MUST come on for the alternator to begin charging, then the light goes out because it loses its ground through the alternator.
at least you're not alone.
dave

You could take the small wire off the alternator and ground it to the frame of the alternator and/or the car - the warning light should come on. If it doesn't you are closer to your problem as you suspected.

I'm not sure what the resistance of the alternator field winding is so I wouldn't suggest powering it directly with 12V. The safer method would be to simulate the original setup and hotwire the alternator with 12V in series with another small lamp you have handy.

thanks, I'll give it a try