after searching i was able to find a little bit of info on engine block heaters, but i still have a few unanswered questions.

first, what size block heater would be needed on a 8 valve b230f? its a 94 940.

also, what do the freeze plugs look like?

im new to these so any info would be helpful, thanks

Did a search for "block heater" and found this thread. As I type, I'm in the midst of a hassle putting one in. No problem getting the frost plug out, removed the exhaust manifold with no problems for clear shot at the right rear most frost plug on my B230F non turbo. A few "brrrrp!"s from an air chisel loosened it, drilled a hole for a pry point but didn't really need it. Came out OK. The problem is the heater. Local Southern CO parts house stocks "Kat's" heaters. Their listed model was a 44mm, about a quarter inch too large diameter it turned out. My frost plug is 40mm and the element MUST be short and angled away from the block opening. About 16/32nds inside the block is the #4 cylinder casting. Not much room at all. Another closer parts house also had Kat's and took the frost plug to them for measurements. Found one with a possible element orientation. Got home, no go. Element hits the cylinder casting before seating. Above NAPA link is down according to NAPA. One more day off tomorrow, will try some more options, maybe in Colorado Springs. Can't find a frost plug repair insert even to close the block so I can use the car. The original Kat's block heater instructions only went up to '84 which should have been a warning; the instruction sheet said orient the element at "9:00" position FYI. Sigh. Will try and post back results and outcome. Have to be at work at 0500hrs on Wednesday. No pressure...

Dear Roger,

Hope you're well. Volvo makes an electric engine heater. I believe this is part #9488604. MSRP is about $155. It might be discounted to closer to $100.

Never having installed this unit, I do not know into which freeze plug opening it is designed to be mounted. A Volvo dealer based where temps go far below zero is likely to know about this item.

I'd suggest contacting Borton Volvo, in Minneapolis: (www.bortonvolvo.com ; (866) 921-1954).

Hope this helps.

Yours faithfully,

Spook

Spook, thanks for the link. I was able to get things back to operation. No one locally had a block heater that would work. OReillys (old Checker Auto) had a replacement freeze plug, brass cup type, that was 40.07mm. The expanding rubber one they had, the smallest size of about 1.5" still wouldn't go in the plug hole. It was brass or nothing. I still had to LIGHTLY file the leading edge of the cup before it would enter the hole. Judicious and light tapping on a wood block with trepidations finally got it solidly seated and the system sealed. Filled it, ran it to operating temp and NO telltale green stuff leaking. Back at work next morning no problems and none since. Found an OEM site for Volvo parts but they list a popular Zerostart freeze plug heater which I am familiar with ONLY for my B230F 91-93. No help there. Guess I'll wait until I get some more definitive info on a workable freeze plug heater. Still having cold start orneriness when it's cold out after the car sits 12 hrs at work. Even with the new coolant temp sensor. Not sure what to check next. Thanks again, Spook and all.

Roger

Dear Roger,

Hope you're well. So, is part #9488604 not a valid part number? If it is not valid, please advise.

If 9488604 is a valid part number, why not contact Borton Volvo, in Minneapolis, and ask them if they can get this unit?

By the way, Tasca Volvo (www.tascaparts.com) shows that this is a valid part number. Tasca's price is $122.00.

In short, if you need a block heater - and it sounds as if you do - why not at least find out if the Volvo unit is available?

I realize the Volvo unit isn't cheap, even with a discount. However, if that's the only unit that will fit....

Hope this helps.

All the Best for 2015!!!

Yours faithfully,

Spook

Hi Spook,

Sorry for the delay in reply. Haven't had the chance to get back on the board. Just had to post on the 700 board about a starter problem. Thought I'd better check back on this post. Had to get a reminder of my log in password. Sucks when you get old and forgetful! I didn't try the local Volvo dealer in Colorado Springs for that part number. The next time I'm up there I will check with them on availability and what plug it goes in. Our recent frigid air still gives my 240 starting fits. It always starts after the third try that gets extra fuel in the intake but not like it does over about 40 degrees when it starts first try on about the 3rd turn of the crank. Just a matter of time to find what changed mid Winter a year ago when the problem came up. Thanks for your input. And the best to you, too, in 2015. Dreaming of Spring...

Roger (MrData on the board...)
--
'85 240 DL B230F 4spdOD 330K; '87 740GLE B230F ZF22 340K

I have a 940 that I got from a home in the high moutains of Col. with a heavy duty winter package ant the block heater is installed in the lower radiator coolant hose.

The Napa plug referenced by a previous listee is correct. I just put one in my B23F engine, and your application is the same. It goes in the rearmost frost plug on the intake side (passenger side), next to the engine coolant drain cock. It's a bear to reach unless you are working from under the car.
The frost plugs are metal discs, roughly 2.5 inches in diameter (from memory)along each side of the block. There are 3 or 4 of them on each side. Only one is appropriate for the block heater, due to interior engine casting obstructions and the potential effectiveness of the heater.
The frost plugs are often thought of as a design feature that the car manufacturer used to ensure a frozen block would pop these things out rather than cracking the block. In fact, they are simply casting points from the engine casting.
If you are installing the block heater yourself, jack the car up, block it up with jack stands after removing the passenger side front wheel. Drain your coolant from the engine petcock (you will probably want new antifreeze anyway, if you are winterizing your car, right?). Attach a plastic hose to the petcock and use a bucket to catch all the coolant. Get it all, it's poisonous to little furry critters like my doggy.
Take a hefty screw driver or pointy type drift and a good sized beater stick and commence to beat on the frost plug till it is driven out. DO NOT MARK UP, SCORE OR MUTILATE THE LIP THE PLUG SITS IN OR YOU WILL NOT GET THE FROST PLUG TO SEAL. It can take a while to get the plug out, but all of a sudden it will drop out. I had all but given out when it popped out onto the floor.
Clean up the lip of the hole with a rag, getting all dirt and grunge out of the way; you want a very clean seal. Insert the heater, with a bit of non-petroleum based lube on the rubber o-ring. I used dielectric grease and it seemed to work well. Dino-oil type grease is not a good thing on rubber. As I recall, the heater element winds up pointing up about 11:00 oclock, but I may be wrong on that. At any rate, you will find it only fits well one way. Tighten the puppy up according to the instructions you get with the thing. As I remember, mine tighened with an allen wrench. Don't be a gorilla and overtighten it; it is a brass assembly and as such distorts/strips easily.
Route your cord to the front of the car appropriately (away from hot items) and tie in position with plastic ties.
Tighten up the petcock, refill the engine with 50/50 antifreeze/water, put rad cap on, and start the engine. Check for leaks. If all is well, shut 'er down, put the front wheel on, and remove from jack stands. If you plug the heater in now (you didn't try out the heater when it was not installed, did you?.. a bad thing), you should hear it hissing an burping after a few minutes of current. Start the car up again. After you have brought the car up to temp, shut it off and let it cool down again. Check your coolant level again and adjust accordingly.
By the way, while you are at it, and if you live in a cold place like I do, I highly recommend a battery blanket. They are cheap (about $20.00 Cdn) and really help sub-zero starts.
Hope this helps!
J Dymond
Alaska Highway BC

It's been a lot of years since I installed a couple of these (still working fine and no leaks) in 240's but I seem to recall they install with the element pointing toward the front of the engine - ie: the 3:00 o'clock position. The instructions with the unit will specify. Oriented like this the power cord attaches so that its molded plug aims it to the rear where you can pass it up the firewall, clear of the exhaust manifold. Then route it upward and forward through the passage in the strut tower/fender and past the coolant reservoir.

You can route it out the front through one of the gaps. Like jaydee, I also chose to install a battery warmer (they're only about 80watts, whereas the block heaters are usually around 400) and plug both into an extension cord behind the right headlight. The extension cord is snaked through a couple of those holes in the front end sheet metal before it emerges out the front so that it's secured and can't be stolen. I wrap it a couple of turns around the front number plate. In the interests of energy efficiency and keeping my electric bill down I put this setup on a timer that starts things about three hours before I need the car in the morning. After 16 Alberta winters, no failures to start.
--
Bob (son's 81-244GL B21F, dtr's 83-244DL B23F, 'my' 94-944 B230FD; plus grocery-getter Dodge minivan, hobbycar MGB, and numerous old motorcycles)

"As I recall, the heater element winds up pointing up about 11:00 oclock, but I may be wrong on that. At any rate, you will find it only fits well one way. Tighten the puppy up according to the instructions you get with the thing. As I remember, mine tighened with an allen wrench. Don't be a gorilla and overtighten it; it is a brass assembly and as such distorts/strips easily."


i just want to make sure that the heater is secured into the block, do you find it to be secured in tight? i was reading about volvo block heaters and they claim they can fall out, and come in contact with something like a fuel line, which can cause all sorts of problems

The block heater will seat itelf as you tighten the center bolt. Tightening the center bolt pulls the heater into the recessed surround, just like a drywall reinforcement used to hang heavy pictures or objects in a home.
It helps if you have really cleaned the surround on the block, and lubricated the o-ring on the block heater.
I have never heard of one falling out, unless someone has made like a gorilla and overtightened it to the extent the blot has broken. If that happens I can only presume that after a while the block heater would be pushed out by coolant pressure (what is it, 12 psi?). There is no need to overtighten things. Just tighten it up so the heater is snug and partially recessed in the surround, and test for leaks.
As far as a rejected heater falling onot manifolds or anyting, that would be ther least of your problems; a 2 inch hole in the side of your block where the heater used to be will not hold much coolant. You would over heat in no time flat.
What I HAVE heard of , and experienced, is the cord falling out of the block heater itself. If this happens, and the cord gets wrecked, just pick up a repalcement for 5 bucks at your part store, and make sure this new one is puched into the block heater snugly this time! Another good idea is to smear some dielectric grease on the contacts of the block heater, as this area does eventually corrode if you are in salty country.
Anyway, don't get too worried about it; block heaters are used safely and successfully by the hundred of millions the world over.
JD
Fort St. John BC

very, very helpful reply. thank you!

I'm curious though,

"It goes in the rearmost frost plug on the intake side (passenger side), next to the engine coolant drain cock."

The intake side on my vehicle is on the driver side. so are the freeze plugs on the passenger side? did your freeze plugs look like this?

Jeez, I really ought to proof read my posts before mashing the send button!!! It goes on the exhaust side, not the intake side. I was picturing the B20 in my 1800 (intake and exhaust both on the passenger side). Sorry about that. On the B23 and B230 the exhaust side is the passenger side in North America. The plug you want to knock out is the rearmost plug on the passenger side closest to the firewall, under the exhaust manifold, rar of teh oil filter, and in front of the coolant petcock on the block.
The picture you have of the frost plug is correct, except yours will likely be grimey and covered in red paint.
I sure am glad you caught my mistake, and I sure hope no one gets screwed up by it.

Dear jaydee,

Good a.m. and may this find you well. Could you please submit your excellent set of instructions for freeze plug removal / block heater installation (as corrected) for inclusion in the FAQs? That way, many others will benefit from your expertise. See FAQs, under FEATURES, above.

By the way, would it be possible to remove the freeze plug by drilling a small hole in the center of the plug (say, 6.5mm, 1/4") in it, and using that as a "pry point". Would that reduce the risk of damaging the edge of the opening?

Yours faithfully,

spook

A small hole in the frost plug would certainly assist in removal by allowing a pry point. I think one would need an offset drill of some description in order to accomplish this however, as the horizontal clearance is minimal.
When I installed mine in the B23F recently, I used a sharp screwdriver in hopes of puncturing the frost plug so that I could pry it out, however the plug came free before it punctured. Volvo must make their frost plugs of thicker material than domestic vehicles. I can remember installing block heaters in lots of domestic and British vehicles years ago and it was a snap to poke a hole through the frost plug.

Regarding submission of the the post to the FAQ, that would be great, but I have no idea how to do it, and it does contain that one glaring error as to the location of the intake manifold, corrected in my second post. Suggestions?

JD

As Spook notes, just send the FAQ submissions to me and I'll edit accordingly. stephenringlee at hotmail dot com works just fine. The new edition will go out Christmas week so now would be a good time to submit.
Steve

Dear JD,

Good p.m. To submit your block heater installation procedure to the FAQs, here's the way to do that:

Your contributions, along with corrections and suggestions, are always welcome. Please send a message to "stephenringlee" at hotmail dot com (the subject line MUST contain the word "Volvo") and attach a word processing file if you are submitting a written contribution. Scanned pictures or illustrations are also welcome in any format. To print out an individual file, do it directly from your browser or download the file, save it, then open it in a word processer that can read and print html files.

You should be able to copy your submission from your post into a word processor. You can then correct the position reference, and send it to:
stephenringlee@hotmail.com. I believe Steve keeps a file of submissions, until he has enough to warrant producing the next edition of the FAQs.

As to using a drill to speed-up freeze plug removal, would a drill bit at the end of a flex shaft fit in? These flex shaft attachments are available for Dremel and similar tools.

Yours faithfully,

spook

Spook - allow me to answer the question you directed to jaydee. I have used the method of drilling a hole in the core plug, on a car where the access for the drill was good. It works great. On the two B23 engines I've done, I used a punch at one edge of the plug to knock it cockeyed in its hole, then ViseGrips to twist-pull it out. I would prefer the drill-and-pry method where it can be used, as it presents less opportunity for damaging the hole and creating a leak. But, taking great care, the punch method has worked for me. (I would not recommend it on an aluminum block, however - just in case some of our 960 or FWD/AWD bretheren are eavesdropping.)
--
Bob (son's 81-244GL B21F, dtr's 83-244DL B23F, 'my' 94-944 B230FD; plus grocery-getter Dodge minivan, hobbycar MGB, and numerous old motorcycles)

http://www.napaonline.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ExecMacro/NAPAonline/search_results_product_detail.d2w/report?prrfnbr=23499752&prmenbr=5806&usrcommgrpid=77472682


would this work? its what napa found for my make/model

here it is again in case that one above isnt clickable