Thanks to everyone for the input. I bought a universal jointed 1/2" adapter this morning (the old one was falling apart). Hopefully this should help. I think I'll try lowering the rear of the trans to get at those top 2 bolts. What did you guys use to support the trans as you removed it? I'm thinking of using a large block of wood on my jack. That should be stable enough? Think I'll also borrow another jack for extra support and stability.

Thanks again. I'll let you know how it turns out.

Brad

It’s still fresh in my memory. I used a bunch of 12” extensions on the two upper bolts with a 1/2" universal. If you do it this way it is definitely a two man job. One to line up the socket and one to push a little and turn the breaker bar. I had removed the distributor cap and rotor not knowing if the engine would tilt after disengaging the tranny. The engine held very steady.

I found getting every thing that had to be removed the most tedious part of the job. All easy, just tedious. Drive shaft, tranny mount, shifter linkage, kick down cable, flywheel to TC bolts and two electrical connections at the trannny. Keep all the hardware in well marked zip-lock baggies. The tranny jack made removal and install very easy. I had removed the tranny filler pipe and I will never do that again...well maybe. If you want to, take it to a shop and on a lift, they should be able to loosen and snug it back up easier than if the car was on jack stands.

The only thing I was apprehensive about was using the old drive shaft nuts. They are lock nuts with plastic inserts that are supposed to be used once. (No one ever uses new ones?) I reused them but used Locktite 242.

Good luck
--
Tom F. Couple of Volvos Mods, RainX & cup holders.

There should be ample amount of room in the 900 engine compartment to get all of the bolts off. Removing the distributor is a big help because it gets it out of the way of what you're doing. I've traditionally just used a socket on a big 1/2 breaker bar, but my breaker bar pivots a little more than most. I'm trying to remember removing a 700/900 series AW transmission, but for the life of me I can't remember running into any problems doing it; I could be missing something.

When removing the crankshaft sensor, make sure not to break the sensor bracket. Ditto for when you reinstall the transmission especially, since the bracket breaks easily. Never force the crankshaft sensor. To remove, you can rotate it gently in the bracket and it should come out.

I took out and replaced the engine in my '93 944t, so I am doing the opposite of what you would like to do.

The top two bolts are 18mm. I used a standard wrench with a cheater pipe I got from Home Depot to loosen them. Once you get it loose, the rest is easy, but tedious.

The RPM sensor does not need to come off. It is attached to the engine and just watches the flywheel.

Good luck, hope this helps!
-Eric
'89 765t, gotta find that oil leak.
'93 944t, the "new" engine is in, now I just have to hook everything up. "Installation is the reverse of removal."

Dear Brad,

May this find you well. To remove the RPM sensor, see the detailed procedure in the FAQs, under FEATURES above (http://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/EngineSensors.htm#Crank_Postition_Sensor). It is secured by a 10mm hex head machine screw. It usually does not take much force to remove it.

You will also find under FAQs, a procedure for removing the bellhousing bolts, see (http://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/EngineMechanical.htm#BellhousingBoltRemoval).

Hope this helps. Post back if you hit any roadblocks.

Yours faithfully,

spook