Compared to my other Volvos, this car has always taken a few extra revolutions to fire up. In the past month this has become more extreme on some starts - OK at other times. Other than start-up this car runs very well.

On a bad start, here's what happens. I can hear the fuel pump start to run when I turn the key. I "crank" the engine for 10-15 seconds, but it doesn't fire at all. Sometimes it fires on the next try, sometimes it takes 3-4 tries. It always starts (making it difficult to isolate the problem) and when it does, it immediately runs fine - no smell of raw gas.

On a really bad start, the starter motor will stop for an instant and the tach needle will spike at the same time. then it starts.

Engine has good compression, new plugs, wires, cap/rotor, clean throttle body. Since this problem started, I have also installed a "951" ECU and replaced the constant idle computer. The flywheel timing sensor is two years old.

Any suggestions?

John Flynn
93 940 w/IPD sway bars and chassis brace
90 240 w/turbo suspension and rims

Your problem sounds almost exactly like the one I had, but with one qualifier: Does the problem stay the same regardless of whether the tank is full or empty? On mine, it went away when I filled the tank.

I bought a "parts" car, which I thought I might put back on the road. I wanted to diagnose this issue first, but I didn't want to fill the tank if I wasn't going to keep the car. Here's the story; either way, there's a quick fuel delivery check you might find helpful, based mostly on the one in the FAQ.

darmstrong: thanks for the advice. My wife has been driving this car and she claims that the amount of fuel in the tank doesn't seem to matter - but I'm beginning to suspect it does. I started driving it and been running fine since I filled the tank last week. I like your fuel test and will try it ASAP.

Have you checked the notorious "25 amp fuse" located near the driver side wheel well. Also check the low voltage connections on the coil for corrosion. Sub in a spare Ignition module if you have one.


Good Luck,

Dan

Thanks for responding Dan. I should have mentioned that I recently installed a new fuse and holder after the old one corroded. I keep the coil connections pretty clean, but was thinking of soldering the connectors to the wires - just in case. Where is the ignition module? As I mentioned, I've replaced both black boxes under the passenger footwell - is there another one somewhere?

Inition module = Power Stage = Power amp This is the final electronic section that drives the low voltage side of the ignition coil.

I think in your 240 it will be mounted on the inside of the driver side fender. Approximately 3.5" by 1.5" by .5", Aluminum base with one multi-wire connector attached.

Hope this helps.

Dan

Test for fuel delivery as per Bentley. I would suspect the fuel pump or the check valve. Unfortunately, I don;t have any further info I can share about testing it, but it sounds like one of these could be the culprit.

Cheers,
Raj
--
90 BMW 325is, 98 BMW 528i, 90 Volvo 240DL

Raj,
thanks for the suggestions. It seems to not get fuel during these episodes because there is no smell of raw gas or running rich when it does start. I think the fuel pump is OK because I can hear it start to run when I turn the key. I know check valves were important to maintain system pressure in the old K-jet cars, but thought that with EFI cars fuel pressure was supposed to drop to zero when the pump shut off.

The LH2.4 does keep residual pressure. A couple weeks ago I left the pressure gauge on the wife's 89. It stayed at 42 pounds for an hour while I pulled the transfer pump. The check valve is working and injectors don't leak. Still, I doubt a bad check valve would be a problem cold starting - only in keeping pressure against vapor lock.

You've eliminated the fuel injection relay? That remark about the starter stopping just before it starts is bothersome-- seeming to remind me of bad starters, poor battery cabling and high drain, starving the EFI and ignition for good battery voltage during cranking.
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore

check for suffiecient fuel presssure out of the fuel injectors and check that there aren't corroded. Then check the spark coming outta the ignition coil... if you stick the wire next to a ground it should be a bright orange or blue spark.... very hot... if not then try a different ignition coil see if you can swap one outta a different car. also check other basics.... spark plugs.... sparks to spark plugs so on... i had a similar problem and by adjusting the timing and changing the spark plugs i got rid of it... found out some dummy put the wrong type of plugs in.....