When I remove intake manifolds I find that a universal extension makes it much easier to remove a couple of those 13mm bolts in tight areas.

Randy

Exhaust leaks won't cause a rough idle, and just to make sure you aren't wasting your $$ and effort on replacing them, first check to see if you do have any leaks there. The best method I have used is to set up my shop vac to blow instead of suck by putting the hose on the outlet (presumably you can do that with most shop vacs) and connecting the hose to the exhaust tailpipe. In my case, the hose fit perfectly and snugly, but if you have a different size shop vac then you might have to get out the ol' duct tape. Get a spray bottle and fill it with water and a small amount of dish soap. Turn the shop vac on so it pressurizes the exhaust system, and then start spraying around the exhaust manifold and front pipe with the soapy water. While you're at it, you might get under the car and check your cat gaskets and the front pipe for any hairline cracks forming. If there are any leaks at all, even very minor ones, you will see lots of soapy bubbles forming. Probably the small leaks that you can't actually noticeably hear when the car is running aren't going to be an immediate concern, but this test will at least give you an idea of the overall condition of the exhaust system, as well as the specific information you are after about the manifold gaskets.

The exhaust manifold gaskets are easy to replace with a common socket wrench set. If you exhaust front pipe -to - bell housing bracket is gone, then the job is even easier because you don't have to remove the front pipe from the exhaust manifold.

The smart money says to buy new copper nuts from FCP Groton for when you put your exhaust manifold and/or front pipe back together.

The intake manifold can be removed with standard tools and takes around 2 hours. While it's on the bench, remove all the vacuum nipples and clean the orifices. Clean the throttle plate. Check the throttle switch operation (clicks when throttle plate just starts to open or use a mutli-meter) and adjust as needed. Check the throttle plate linkage adjustment. Replace the o-ring on the end of the idle adjustment screw. With the intake manifold removed, it's a good time to clean/replace the flame trap and clean or replace the breather box below the flame trap. Check all the vacuum hoses and replace those with hard, loose fitting ends or cracks. Pull the idle air motor and spary it out with carb cleaner and check the operation by connection to a 12 volt source (the battery). The center terminal is the neutrel and the two outer terminals determine which way the motor runs. Check the accordian tube from the air mass meter to the throttle plate for cracks (cracks are hard to see so flex it every which way). If the wiring harness is original, check the condition of the insulation on the wire ends where they connect to the devices like temp sensor and starter solenoid (the control wire, not the heavy amp battery cable). If you order the intake gasket from Groton, they offer a gasket kit for the throttle body. jp

Well, yes, but an exhaust leak will not affect idle but will make a ticking or popping sound. Intake is a different matter but you might try the flammable aerosol test for idle first.