Volvo RWD 140-160 Forum

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I know it must be something simple, but 140-160

I'm still going nuts with my son's '71 142. To date: 'get good spark, all ignition parts are new or have been checked, cleaned, set (new cap, etc.) when electronic ignition was installed before current project. Valve clearances set a few hundred miles earlier. 'have checked for vacuum leaks and it appeared there was one at vacuum hose connection to carburetor port. I replaced vacuum hose and no more leak. No leaks apparent at carb/manifold or manifold/head junction or at either end of the hose (or the hose itself) going from the brake booster to the manifold. The car ran as well as could be expected with the Weber set-up PO had installed. We changed to SUs at the same time we converted from automatic to manual tranny. That's when the problems started. The car won't run worth a hoot - rough, no power and timing has to be severely advanced for car to run at all.

Carbs re-bushed and all parts move smoothly, float valves work properly. Fuel mixture set for initial running as suggested in Haynes. It's gotta be something simple that I'm overlooking and that's the most frustrating part. The bloomin' engine is simple enough that I at least should be able to get it to run.

The worst part - sob, sob 'son is gonna take the car to a shop ifn we don't git it fixed right away.

Jim H








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I know it must be something simple, but 140-160

Wires already checked to be in proper oredr. I'll check the condition and make sure the cap is the right one.

Jim








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I know it must be something simple, but 140-160

Is the new distributor cap the same part number as the old cap? The location of the cutout that keys it relative to the dizzy body varies -- get the wrong one, and the rotor won't be pointing to any terminal on the cap when the coil fires. It might arc to the nearest one and make the car sorta run...








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I know it must be something simple, but 140-160

You want simple?
Are you sure the plug wires are good?
I installed a new set on a fresh rebuilt engine once and never even considered
that they could be a problem.
Car ran like crap.
Turned out to be just one bad wire.








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I know it must be something simple, but 140-160

I vote for plug wires being out of location.

Set crank pulley at proper static timing mark with #1 on compression stroke not on exhaust stroke, and verify that both valves are completely closed. Look at distributor rotor and see which cap terminal it's pointing at - that's #1 wire. Then install 3, 4, and 2 going around the cap counterclockwise.

Don't think you're the only one - I've done it.








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I know it must be something simple, but 140-160

Exhaust smell rich? Floats stuck? Float bowls empty?
--
'74 145e T-5 'Orange Alert'








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I know it must be something simple, but 140-160

Check the plug wires again! 1-3-4-2 counterclockwise.







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