|
|
|
Had yet ANOTHER conversation with the dealer concerning my driver's seat, and this is what I was told...
1: The driver's seat on the donor car was exposed to the elements, and is therefore, useless.
2: He said that he will look for a new seat for me. In the meantime, he said that if he cannot get a seat before the car is due for inspection, he will reimburse me $100 to get a new seat (this was put in writing).
3: In the meantime, I contacted a Volvo shop in NJ (THANK YOU for the shop listings section! I don't know what I would do without this board). The owner said he's supposed to be getting an 87' in within the next few days. It has a tan cloth interior (like my car)---he said that if the seats are in good shape, he'd sell me the pair---with installation and disposal of my old seats--for $100-125.00
In speaking with said Volvo shop, I was told that the car **could not** fail inspection in NJ for the seat back. It could only fail if the seat was broken on its track (which it's not).
Which leads me to my big question....should I either (A): wait for this guy to get a new seat for my car, or (B): demand the $100.00 **now**, and purchase the seats from SPKSwedish? Other than the seat fiasco, the dealer took the liberty of fixing the broken glovebox door, the map pockets, the speaker, and the sunvisor clip--none of which I asked him to do. I'm wondering if I should give the guy a chance, and see what he can do.....
I thank you all again for your help!
--
It's a Volvo thing....You wouldn't understand. Steve-- 1989 244DL (Olaf)
|
|
-
|
|
|
Steve is a solid guy. Honest as the day is long. Been doing biz w/ him for 5 years and never a problem.
Helped me part out my totalled 90 240 and take the engine/tranny and build a new 90 for my nephews/niece to drive.
Good guy all around.
|
|
-
|
|
|
If the seat was exposed to the weather, then the carpets were most likely also exposed to the weather. The floorboards might now be rusting away under your feet, from the inside out.
--
Don Foster (near Cape Cod, MA)
|
|
-
|
|
|
Well, see that's just it---these are the replacements that were exposed...not the original ones in my car now.
However, I now found out that I have two more problems--and I'm hoping that they'll be relatively inexpensive fixes...
First---the driver's side tail/brake lamp is out. When I popped the trunk to look at things, I noticed that the metal foil stuff (I'm assuming that's the printed circut) was slighty loose and crunchy sounding. Then, there was a missing socket for the other taillamp bulb. If this printed circut needs to be replaced, how much is this going to run me? I'm assuming that I can get the socket cheaply.
Second, the gas gauge is shot---which is making me afraid to drive the car. SHould I get it fixed, or is the trip computer accurate enough for me to get away without fixing it? I'm assuming that there are probably a number of reasons as to why the fuel gauge does not work. The temp gage, however, DOES work, as does the clock and the speedo (no tach--it's a DL).
Part of me feels as though I was reamed up the cornhole with this car, but the other part of me figures that this is what I get for spending $440.00 for a car (excluding doc fees and tax). For the price, I'm happy that the engine runs and the car moves :).
I wonder if there's anyone in Jersey that is a member of this board, who'd be willing to show a poor college kid how to work on his own Brick, and save some cash... :)
--
It's a Volvo thing....You wouldn't understand. Steve-- 1989 244DL (Olaf)
|
|
-
|
|
|
"...the metal foil stuff (I'm assuming that's the printed circut) was slighty loose and crunchy sounding..."
Yep. I went through that with my '83 244 GL. I ended up soldering "pigtails" to the foil, where the foil was solid, and jumping them wround the edge connector, where the harness connects to the flex-circuit. This solved the connection problem for years 'til the car was junked due to rust.
"...a missing socket for the other taillamp bulb..."
Scrounge one from a junk.
"If this printed circut needs to be replaced, how much is this going to run me?"
Buy an entire tail light assembly from the boneyard. The flex-circuit might be too easily damaged during replacement.
"...gas gauge is shot---which is making me afraid to drive the car..."
The gas gauges on the 240s are notoriously non-linear. Most 240 owners learn to judge the need for fill-up by watching the trip odometer. I refill my 240s when the trip odo gets to 300-325 for local driving or 325-350 for sustained highway driving.
"...why the fuel gauge does not work..."
Does work at all, or is it completely non-functional?
One common problem is loose nuts......
"...get for spending $440..."
For an '89, you did GOOD. The car is undoubtedly worth more -- use the unspent extra $$ to restore it the way you want.
"...a poor college kid how to work on his own Brick, and save some cash..."
Just stick around here and ask the right questions. And check the FAQs...
--
Don Foster (near Cape Cod, MA)
|
|
-
|
|
|
All wonderful advice! How difficult is it to remove and install a tailamp assembly?
I figured there was a way to get around fixing the fuel gauge. It is completely inoperative. The needle stays below the red zone, even after I put $5.00 of fuel in it. I'm glad that this is not a problem with just my 244. Is the 300 mile mark typical for a 200 series, or should I be a little more cautious---say every 200 miles or so?
For the record, I took the car home today. The thing ran like stink! Engine purred wonderfully, and the trans shifted impeccably. Where else am I going to find a car in the $4-600 bracket that will still run this great at 233K?
--
It's a Volvo thing....You wouldn't understand. Steve-- 1989 244DL (Olaf)
|
|
-
|
|
|
"How difficult is it to remove and install a tailamp assembly?"
Not difficult at all. Disconnect the harness and remove the nuts from the mounting studs (probably four of 'em). The bad news is that sometimes the nuts are rusted to the studs, and if you twist hard they'll snap.
Use a good penetrating oil, such as PBlaster or Kroil (**NOT** that crappy WD-40). Usually the penetrating oil works best if you can let it soak for several days...
"...fixing the fuel gauge...It is completely inoperative."
A common problem is the nuts on the studs that mount the gauge to the instrument cluster PCB. After many years and many miles and many potholes, the nuts loosen. Because those studs also act as the electrical connections, the gauge becomes electrically disconnected.
Same for the temp gauge.
With modest work, a schematic, and an ohmmeter, you can determine if the sender works and if the gauge works.
"Is the 300 mile mark typical for a 200 series..."
It was for my last six-eight 240s and my current three 240s (my 245T is a bit more thirsty and much more dependent on the lead in my foot).
"Engine purred wonderfully, and the trans shifted impeccably. Where else am I going to find a car in the $4-600 bracket that will still run this great at 233K?"
You made out like a bandit. Be happy investing another $500-$1000 in the car and having a comfortable, safe, and reliable car for $1500 that will last you another 5-10 years and 100k miles.
Follow all the prudent advice about:
1) Regular maintenance.
2) Resoldering all the relays BEFORE thay let you down (and they all will).
3) Preemptive repairs -- fix it before it causes trouble (e.g., the tranny cooling lines, flame trap, retaining strap across the "big plug," etc...).
--
Don Foster (near Cape Cod, MA)
|
|
-
|
|
|
"Is the 300 mile mark typical for a 200 series..."
It was for my last six-eight 240s and my current three 240s (my 245T is a bit more thirsty and much more dependent on the lead in my foot).
**I just thought of something. Are your 200's automatics or manuals? I ask, because mine is an automatic, and automatics tend to gulp more fuel than a stick. Or should it not matter? I'm by no means a leadfoot (never had a ticket in my life--could be a poster child for the DMV, come to think of it..lol), and I've never driven any of my bricks without overdrive on.
--
It's a Volvo thing....You wouldn't understand. Steve-- 1989 244DL (Olaf)
|
|
-
|
|
|
"Are your 200's automatics or manuals?"
Some of each. And, yes, the automatic's tend to use a bit more fuel. My old '82 245 MPG 4spd-OD used to get upwards of 32-33 on the highway if driven very carefully and around 26-28 in normal city-highway commuting.
My '86 245 A/T gets about 22-23 around town and 25-26 on the highway.
My '90 240 A/T sedan gets about 25-26 around town and 27-28 -- or better -- on the highway.
My '82 245T gets about 18-25 everywhere, and depends heavily on the heavy foot. When I *really* restrain myself, it gets about 23-25. (Keep in mind that the turbo engine is lower compression and so is less efficient when not "on" the turbo.)
"I'm by no means a leadfoot..."
Run an experiment. Fill up and reset your trip odo. When you get to 300 miles, fill up again and calculate your mileage. Keep in mind that your tank holds around 15 gallons, so if you only fill 12 gallons, then you had 3 to go (around 75 miles of safety margin) before running out.
By knowing your typical fuel consumption, you can calibrate your "odomoeter consumption."
--
Don Foster (near Cape Cod, MA)
|
|
-
|
|
|
I'm glad that my fuel gauge is something that I can hold off on! That allieviates my worries :).
Now, you mentioned the flame trap and the "big plug". I've seen a handful of posts on here talking about the flame trap, but I'm still not 100% sure what that does. The "big plug" on the other hand, I haven't a clue as to what that is, nor do I recall reading about it in any of the posts. What does that do?
Thanks again!
Steve
--
It's a Volvo thing....You wouldn't understand. Steve-- 1989 244DL (Olaf)
|
|
-
|
|
|
"...the flame trap, but I'm still not 100% sure what that does..."
Long answer to a short question....
The flame trap is one part of the crankcase ventilation system. Vapors from the crankcase are routed back into the intake system so the engine can "consume" and burn them rather than simply venting to the atmosphere. (All cars used to vent, but the EPA put a stop to that years back.)
The danger with routing back to the intake is that if the car backfires, the flames can travel back through the plumbing to the crankcase, resulting in BOOOOOOM! The repairs to replace the gaskets and seals would be staggering -- providing that the car didn't burn up.
Volvo inserts a "flame trap" in the plumbing (of non-turbo cars) that will pass these crankcase vapors but will quench a flame. Hence, it "traps" a flame.
These were common on the lanterns used in coalmines centuries ago, and for just the same reason.
"The 'big plug' on the other hand, I haven't a clue as to what that is..."
Another long answer to a short question...
The B230F engine (first used in '85 models) was used in both the 240 and the 740 models. When used in the 740, the distributor is mounted on the rear of the cylinder head and directly driven by the camshaft.
But when the B230 engine is installed in the 240, the distributor is in the normal position in the block, lower left front side.
When the engine is used in a 240, a big plug blocks the distributor hole in the head. When the engine is used in a 740, the distributor hole in the block is blocked.
When the flame trap becomes plugged, the pressure inside the crankcase can force oil past the seals, sometimes pop the seals out, and sometimes pop the big plug out from the head. That causes a VERY BIG OIL leak. (Happened to my daughter when she was driving back to college in '97, or so.)
The remedy for this is to ALWAYS check, clean, and service the ventilation system, including the flame trap.
Another remedy is to install a safety strap across the big plug. (It exploits the threaded holes used to mount the distributor if the engine were in a 740.)
The picture below shows the plug and illustrates a cheap, easy strap you can make from a scrap of aluminum. The plug is behind the head, next to the firewall. You really can only feel it, not see it.
--
Don Foster (near Cape Cod, MA)
|
|
-
|
|
|
Okay---Me thinks I have my tail light/brake light problem solved!
Now that I've finally had a chance to look at things in the daylight (without a flashlight, for that matter), things are looking up. Seems as though the printed circut is in decent condition, and that the crumbling feeling I was experiencing, was nothing more than my scratching the plastic socket's metal posts against a trim piece. Upon closer inspection of the bulb, I noticed that it was kind of darkish-brown (leading me to believe that it was burned out). I then looked at the smaller bulb (to the left, near the license plate)---it had sort of a blue tinge to it---which, as I can recall from my last 244---meant that water must have seeped into it, and blown it out. I found a spare bulb in the trunk of the car (the only bulb, for that matter), and screwed it into the passenger's side socket (now giving me an actual brake light, as well as the CHMSL). I still have two bulbs out, but I feel a lot better knowing that it's the bulbs themselves, and not the printed circut. I feel even happier knowing that I was not missing a socket at all---it was simply sitting in the trunk.
However, I do have a socket question. Upon inspection of the driver's side brake lamp socket, I found out that I could not get the bulb out of the socket. It'll spin slightly---but it won't come out. I don't want to force it, as I'm not in the mood for picking glass shards out of my thumb. So....what is the best way to get the darn bulb out? Should I just chuck the thing all together, and get a new socket, or should I break the bulb out of the socket?
Thanks!
--
It's a Volvo thing....You wouldn't understand. Steve-- 1989 244DL (Olaf)
|
|
-
|
|
|
When it spins, is the bulb glass spinning in the brass part? Or is the brass part (of the bulb) spinning in the female black plastic thingy?
If the glass has separated from the brass -- that is, if the glue has failed -- then you'll end up using needle nose pliers to remove the brass part from the Volvo part.
If the brass is spinning, however, then it's likely that you merely have a buildup of corrosion, tarnish, and/or grime that's preventing it from coming out of the black plastic thingy.
Keep in mind that you have two types of bulbs: Single-filament and two-filament. The brass sockets are different. The two-filament bulb fits only one way.
--
Don Foster (near Cape Cod, MA)
|
|
-
|
|
|
Okay, Don!
We had a nice, dry spell later in the afternoon, so I pulled the socket. The glass was spining on the brass thing...and the brass thing was **not** budging out of the white socket. So...I wound up having to bust the bulb, and use a pair of pliers to yank the brass portion out of the socket. There was some slight brownish/orange gunk in the socket itself, so I cleaned it out. I then replaced the bulb...and nothing.
Yes---the printed circut was bad. And just that portion. The taillamp (by the license plate) worked fine, as did the rest of the lights. But the circut for where the brake lamp was is shot. I was going to do some welding, but I do not have the tools to do so. This may sound crazy, but would a piece of aluminum foil work?
I had to fax the dealer a copy of my insurance card this morning, and when I did, I also enclosed a request for him to get me a new taillamp assembly with the printed circut. I was on one of the Volvo parts sites, and could only find new assemblies for over $100 bucks. Should I spring for the new unit, or can I get a perfectly good assembly at a bone yard?
I thank you for all of your help. This board is amazing!
Steve
--
It's a Volvo thing....You wouldn't understand. Steve-- 1989 244DL (Olaf)
|
|
-
|
|
|
You can probably find a good used assembly at a boneyard, but be sure you get the correct one for your car.
You might also try FCP Groton.
And, as a last (and decidedly Yankee) approach, you could always solder leads to the bulb holder and then to the flex-circuit in the tail light assy. This would completely bypass the cruddy printed circuit.
(I figure this is worth a try, since you'll junk the assy anyway if you install a new or used replacement.)
--
Don Foster (near Cape Cod, MA)
|
|
-
|
|
|
"..be sure you get the correct one for your car."
I'm assuming that I'm looking for an assembly between 1986 and 1993?? Or do I need a specific one for an 89? I know that the ones used prior to 86 had a completely different set-up as far as where the brake and tail lamps were located.
--
It's a Volvo thing....You wouldn't understand. Steve-- 1989 244DL (Olaf)
|
|
-
|
|
|
"...the ones used prior to 86 had a completely different set-up as far as where the brake and tail lamps were located..."
That's probably what I'm thinking of. FCP Groton's parts listing shows the same p/n for '86-'93 taillights...
...sooooo...........
--
Don Foster (near Cape Cod, MA)
|
|
-
|
|
|
Don, I couldn't tell 100% for sure. At first, it looked as though the glass itself was spinning. Then it looked as though the metal part was twisting. I would go and pluck it out from the car now, but we're in the midst of a heavy downpour. As soon as things dry up (which should be in a few hours), I'll go pluck it out, and give you a better idea. I can tell you this---from what I could see, the metal posts in the bottom of the socket **looked** fairly clean--but then again, this was just the bottom of the prongs.
--
It's a Volvo thing....You wouldn't understand. Steve-- 1989 244DL (Olaf)
|
|
-
|
|
|
To check the gas gauge signal from the dash go to the trunk, pull up the carpet and look on left side for a black connector with 2 wires.Check the voltage by using a voltmeter to the colored one and ground the neg vm wire and it should read 10v min.
Dash speedo is not a big hassle to open the gas gauge is an easy check. If the gauge is ok then go back to the trunk and check the wiring at the in tank pump. Open the silver panel next to the wires you checked before and check the wiring that passes thru the top of the plate going into the tank. If its been in a rust environment there is a chance the wiring that is encased in the plastic pass thru sleeve is corroded or broken and you need a new sender assembly ($80 from FCP Groton) or you need to fix the wiring (if you are mech minded).
|
|
|
|
|
