91, 740 Sedan
156k


I might need to do a right inner tie rod replacement on our sedan. After I identify the type as either CAM or ZF, and soak the tie rod connection parts with lubricant, I have some questions, as I never did any suspension or steering work before on any car, ever! So, of all things on a car this is my weak area of knowledge - I couldn't even tell you what part it was. Btw, I disclaim your advice, but please try not to forget something important - Murphy is always watching!

Preliminary question - how can I tell if the tie rod really is bad or if the tire shop was just trying to drum up business?


REMOVAL --

1. Steering wheel - I read about this issue. Does it get turned left or right? ... Do you want it to lock, or do you want it to move?

2. After the vehicle is jacked up, do I need the jack under the steering or suspension somewhere? ... I hear references to placing the raised jack under the control arm - why? ... And,

if yes, is it done before or after removal of the [inner] tie rod.

3. Do I need two wrenches of the same size - I hear references to that also.

4. What is this peening-staking thing about? Is there a unpeening-unstaking, and if yes, what order is it done in?

5. Does the boot need to come off? How is the boot attached?

6. Will I need a pickle fork, and if yes, what type - tie rod or ball joint type, or both? and/or a pitman arm puller (standard or small design), and/or a tie rod puller? Friend if mine says just use two hammer, one on top and the other underneath and smack one on the end of the joint, and hold the other hammer still, and it will pop out.

7. Btw, always only partially unscrew the ball joint nut before popping the ball out, right?

8. Count the number of exposed threads on the exposed tie rod, so I can get it back to as close to how it was for alignment purposes, right?


INSTALLATION --

9. Ok, what did I miss, besides the medium blue loctite (and why not high strength red?)

10. Tricks to install it all back without damaging the new parts?

11. I copied this out of the archives and have no idea what this person is referring to: "There is no formal locking mechanism in the sense of a locknut or jam nut. There should be a washer with a tab that indexes with a notch in the rack end. Make sure that you reused the old ones. If you didn't, get a new set and install them before you drive the car ... Also, when you tighten the new tie rod, use a counterhold wrench on the last tooth on the rack" ....

What tooth or teeth? Is this about holding a wrench onto gears of some sort. Teeth refer to gears of some sort.

________________________________________________________________________________


Please articulate. Pics would be great.

thanks -- diyer

Just did all this on my son's 240. 700's may be plenty different, but here's some generic advice:

I got a BJ/Tie rod end remover from JC Whitney ($10). Their usual quality...but it did the job. Hammers? Pickle Forks? I try to avoid beating on things, so the screw action of the remover was preferred. The tie rod ends were really locked to their jamnuts and the inner tie rods. Lots of PB'laster and language.

As each tie rod end is removed from the steering arm on the lower end of the strut assembly you can then check the condition of the inner tie rod's ball joint. On ours, one was still tight enough to rest in any position you moved it to..the other would flop around. That one also had detectable play when you pushed/pulled it toward/from the rack. Any play there is quite unacceptable, and explained why my son was complaining of excessive wandering in crosswinds.

The new inner tie rod(s) thread into the rack. I cleaned the threads thoroughly, including the blind ones in the rack with Q-tips soaked in lacquer thinner. Then apply thread locking compound, ensure the lock washers are in place and screw them in. Align the lock washers with the cutouts in the rack before tightening. My Volvo green factory manuals state that it's very important to use a counterholding wrench on the rack gear before torquing the inner tie rods, or internal damage to the rack may occur. The place for this counterhold was a single flat on the rack gear on the driver's side. I used an adjustable wrench tightened as much as I could get it. I don't think you need a lot of torque if you get the thread locking cpd and lockwashers OK.

Volvo call for application of 20cc's of a special lubricant inside the rack boots before buttoning them up. A dealer svc mgr told me to just use CV joint lube. Smear gobs of this all around the inner TR ball joints.

Count and write down the exposed threads on each of the inner tie rods before tearing into things so you can reassemble with the new parts and get alignment fairly close. The alignment guy told me I had very slight toe-out. I did front strut inserts at the same time, and even got the camber close!

This was my first attempt at serious suspension/steering work, and although a lot of work and not inconsiderable $$$, very satisfying results. (IPD swaybars, Boge TurboGas shocks and struts, strut upper bearings, new BJ's and TR ends...and one inner TR). Then a 600 mile drive a few days later and a huge difference in handling, and in steering precision.
--
Bob (81-244GL B21F, 83-244DL B23F, 94-944 B230FD; plus grocery-getter Dodge minivan, MGB, and numerous old motorcycles)

1. Steering wheel - I read about this issue. Does it get turned left or
right? ... Do you want it to lock, or do you want it to move?


Thanks,
diyer

1. Steering wheel - I read about this issue. Does it get turned left or
right? ... Do you want it to lock, or do you want it to move?


Thanks,
diyer

..............."A dealer svc mgr told me to just use CV joint lube. Smear gobs of this all around the inner TR ball joints."

CV joint lube is simply molybdenum disulfide based grease, commonly known as moly grease. Thanks for the tip.
--
john

Yes, it is DIY-able.
Your only complications will be unscrewing the outer from the inner tie rod: they are usually corroded together (if you live in the salt belt) and might be a stretch. In that case, buy both replacements and cut the outer tie rod off from the inner. Depending on mileage, you might also want to replace the ball joint: it is cheap and easy. I did all three.
See the FAQ for more details on this job. Support the side of the car with a jack stand under the control arm to raise that side of the suspension. Pickle fork takes the outer rod off from the ball joint stud. Unscrew outer tie rod from the inner, or just bag it and replace both. Cut the cover ties and remove the cover: reuse this with new ties.

The inner rod is "staked" after it is screwed in by using a punch and hammer to pound one edge of the inner threads in. You will see it when you remove the tie rod cover. You can do this, or use Loctite to secure the rod in the rack.

Best advice: get a pickle fork to fit before you begin the job. Cut the cover and measure the wrenches you will need as well. Get new cover ties and the parts. Then do the job the next day or so.