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Tips for heater control valve replacement? 900 1993

Any tips for replacing the heater valve on a '93 940t? I've heard it's not the smoothest job due to clearance and space issues. But mine's 2 or 3 years overdue, so I really want to get it done soon. Anyone been through this recently?

Also, wondering about the vacuum line to the valve. Do I have to have the heat dial open or closed, or doesn't it matter?

Appreciate any advice!

-b








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    Tips for heater control valve replacement? 900 1993

    I recently replaced the heater hoses and heater control valve on my 95 940. It wasn't exactly fun, but I do not remember cursing even once :)

    All poster full of very good information. Change the hoses for sure. Can't stress enough the importance of cutting the hoses off the heater core. And do not cut all the way through the hose such that you cut into the soft copper nipple. If you do, the new hose may leak.

    I suggest you do not cut the hose off the nipple as if you were performing a circumcision. Instead, use a slight spiral to "unfurl" the hose from the nipple. If you cut through the hose and just down to the nipple, the hose should peel offn easily.

    just my .02








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    Tips for heater control valve replacement? 900 1993

    Use gloves. Get new heater hoses as well.
    --
    Warren Bain - '99 V70GLT G-Valve > 80K mi, 89 300SE, '96 965 >120Kmi, near Manassas Va.. Check the 700/900 FAQ via the 'features' pull down menu. This post written with 100% recycled electrons.








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    Tips for heater control valve replacement? 900 1993

    Dear Fellow Brickboarders,

    May this find you well. It is standard practice, to install the heater control valve into its hoses, and then install this assembly? Or, does the hose have to be attached to the tube from the water pump, the heater valve then inserted into the hose, and the hose then run from the control valve to the firewall nipple?

    The return line is obviously a straight run, so the hose must be threaded through the maze, until it reaches the port on the side of the intake manifold.

    Thanks for any light you can shed on this.

    Yours faithfully,

    spook








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      Tips for heater control valve replacement? 900 1993

      I've only done this job once so that hardly makes me an expert nor do I have any idea what is standard practice. On a job like this I read up in the FAQ, do a forum search, look at any available manuals, and then make a suitable sacrifice the the Volvo god. Don't ask!

      What I did was to try to memorize the routing of that hose with the valve in it. Then I took out the old hose with the valve. The new hose was in one piece so it had to be cut to insert the new valve. I did the cut and inserted the valve to make the new assembly look like the old as well as I could. Then I put the whole assembly back in place as well as I could remember. There are some plastic clips that hold the hoses in place and these are either a help to locate the hose or a source of confusion if you can'r recall the hose "going there".

      Getting the hose onto the nipple on the block took some contortion. The hose clamp (you did remember to put that on?) has to placed just right so you can reach down through the manifold runners to tighten it. After a weeks run-in, I had to retighten all hose clamps.

      As mentioned earlier, I also had to carefully cut the hose with my trusty scout knife to get them off off the heater nipples.

      I'm glad I did the job and hope I don't have to do it again. Good luck to you.








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    Tips for heater control valve replacement? 900 1993

    Good idea to change the hoses with the valve. As Jim mentioned, the hose connection under the intake is a real knuckle buster. Took me a while to get the hose to seat properly there. If you pull the manifold back, here's the view:



    Certainly not necessary to pull the manifold to do the job, though. Good access to the breather box, if that's on your 'to do' list...

    The heater hoses might be stuck to the heater core nipples on the firewall... you might have to cut the hoses to remove them. The nipples are soft and easy to damage, so be careful there. Don't think you need to do anything special with the vac line.

    There was a discussion in the 900 forum recently on the pros & cons of OE vs. aftermarket heater hoses... you might want to check that out.

    - Brian '93 945T








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    Tips for heater control valve replacement? 900 1993

    I did this recently on my '93 940 NA. Assuming the layout of the valve is the same, it won't be too hard. The heater control can be in any position for this. I replaced the hoses as well as the valve and left some knuckle skin under there. If I do it again, I'll loosen the intake manifold and pull it back to let me see what I'm doing.

    If you're only doing the valve it will still have to be done by touch but it shouldn't be as difficult. It was the proper location and orientation of the hoses that gave me trouble. Also be sure the vacuum line is on securely. I didn't get mine on right and the valve wouldn't work.








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      Tips for heater control valve replacement? 900 1993

      When I changed my heater hoses and control valve recently (1994 940GL) I borrowed a couple of painters trestles and a large painters plank from a friend.

      With the bonnet (hood) opened to the fully vertical position (adjust those catches on the hinges to allow full vertical opening) it was a really easy job to lie on the plank and reach down with tools to undo the hoses. One of those flexible screwdrivers with a 1/4" square drive on the end and a variety of sockets is really useful for loosening and tightening hose clamps. (They're sometimes called a hose clamp tool) IPD sell them on their US website, plus lots of places that sell automotive tools.

      John Marshall
      1994 940GL
      Christchurch NZ









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        Tips for heater control valve replacement? 900 1993

        Hi Guys. Thanks for all the suggestions. Just got back from out of town, and couldn't believe all the helpful suggestions. This board is great! John, your method of getting to the darn thing looks great - I'll definitely be using that approach when I do the procedure - my back and leg muscles are already thanking me!








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        Tips for heater control valve replacement? 900 1993

        Dear John,

        Good p.m. and may this find you well. I had wondered if this approach could be taken. You've answered that question.

        I will shortly do this job on a 93 940 NA. I'd rather not loosen the intake manifold. So, I will use two "saw horses" of the proper height, and a sheet of plywood (5/8"/16mm thick) as a work platform.

        It using "saw horses" and a small sheet of plywood - cheap items - saves time / muscle strain / hand damage, it might be useful for the FAQs to have a detailed procedure.

        While a professional mechanic might not want to use - or might be barred by government/company safety regs from using - such a work platform, this approach might help many others.

        If you'll let me have an e-mail address, I'd like you to review my write-up, so that it is as accurate as possible.

        Yours faithfully,

        spook







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