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OK, so this is on my dad's '98 S90, but it doesn't make much difference. The rear control arm bolt sheared right off when I tried to take it out. Unlike our trusty 240's, the bolt goes into a plate that is welded to the car, with no access to the top of it. After drilling the bolt out, I used a BIG screw extractor, which promptly broke insite the drilled hole. Now, I can't get the screw extractor piece out, as it is hardened and tempered chrome vanadium steel. What the crap? Why do screw extractors break when that is precisely what they are not supposed to do? I'm so angry. Even with a cobalt bit, drilling does nothing except put out smoke. 2+ hours of pounding with a hammer and chisel has yeilded nothing except a few little chunks broken off the easy out. How can I get this thing out? thanks for any advice! I'm willing to try casting a spell on the stupid thing!
Nate Gundy
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'86 240DL sedan, 260K miles, M46, K cam, 25/21mm sways, 260 front and wagon rear springs; http://valvespringcompressor.weblogs.us/
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Drills spin slowly, at maybe 3600 rpm tops. Cobalt bits are still
too soft to do much harm to the easy-out. What you want is a 1/4"
or 1/8" carbide cutter rotating at high RPM - I suggest using a
Dremel moto-tool with a max. RPM of around 25,000. To get the broken
bolt out after the Easy-out is removed, heat it with a torch and
cool it rapidly with water repeatedly. Soaking with penetrating oil
might also help. Only then should you use another Easy-out.
Good luck, -b.
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Well, conveniently, my dad's new rotary tool just arrived today, so that's something. It has a couple diamond-tipped deburring bits with it. I'm hoping those might make a dent in it. What do "carbide cutters" look like? I've never had any experience with them. Are they widely available, like at my local hardware store? If it ever stops raining, I'll go try the diamond bits. thanks again...
Nate Gundy
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'86 240DL sedan, 260K miles, M46, K cam, 25/21mm sways, 260 front and wagon rear springs; http://valvespringcompressor.weblogs.us/
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What do "carbide cutters" look like?
Here are a few examples:
http://www.mytoolstore.com/dremel/tungcrbi.html
Diamond cutters should also work. Use the kind that look like an unfluted
rought-ended drill bit, not the kind that look like a wee cutting wheel.
Good luck -b.
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Well, I bought a carbide cutting bit for cutting cement, and it made short work of the easy out. The problem now is that we still have a bolt stuck in this hole. I've tried heating/cooling many times, tried another easy out (far more carefully) and still can't get it to budge. It has soaked in PB blaster for a day now....what can I do? I don't want to ruin all the threads of this thing. This 3 hour probject to replace ball joints and rear control arm bushings on my dad's S90 has turned into a 2-day extravaganza....all over ONE BOLT. thanks again!
Nate Gundy
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'86 240DL sedan, 260K miles, M46, K cam, 25/21mm sways, 260 front and wagon rear springs; http://valvespringcompressor.weblogs.us/
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If it makes you feel any better,I was working on a friends V-70 and didn't seat the ball joint all the way and she broke down around the corner from my house. I had the car towed back to my house and when the balljoint let go the axle pulled apart at the inner CV joint.I had to remove the whole axle to repair the inner CV joint.
This was on a Friday night,I couldn't get the CV boot kit until Monday leaving her car up on jack stands in my driveway all w/e.Luckily she was cool about it but a simple control arm/ball joint replacement turned into a 4 day fiasco.
I'll stick to working on 240s..........
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philvo '86 245 218k,'90 240 198k,'87 SAAB 900 SPG 213k
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read your valve spring compressor tool page - very nicely done
i have a question, though, i am gonna have to do a valve shim replacement on mine and id like to know if it is necessary to compress the valve springs to replace the shims
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Rich Wiebe
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Well, to do the valve shims, you either have to take out the cam after measuring the shims to replace them, or get a special depressor tool that works with the cam still in. I just take the cam out, since it's a pretty easy task. You won't need to use anything like the tool I made. Thanks for the feedback on the webpage!
Nate Gundy
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'86 240DL sedan, 260K miles, M46, K cam, 25/21mm sways, 260 front and wagon rear springs; http://valvespringcompressor.weblogs.us/
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there are two methods i know of , the first is to weld a hex nut on to the broken stud welding on the inside of the nut,let it cool down and then using a wrench or socket to turn out the broken stud. the welded nut might break off on the first try but it should work , the heating and cooling of the stud helps break it loose . the second method is to use a tool called a TAPBLASTER which is a small elec.welder that uses a air compressor and it melts and at the same time blows out the steel scale from the stud when it is set correctly nothing is left in the shaft cavity and you just run a tap to clean the threads. to find this tool you would have to check with different machine shops. good luck!
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