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Brake failure light 200

My brake failure light came on in my 88 240 wagon, but I just put new rotors and brakes on about 4 months ago. Is this a typical problem? Should I ignore it? The brakes work wonderfully as far as I can tell. The light is annoying though!








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    Brake failure light 200

    The light comes on when an imbalance is detected between the two brake systems. In the valve shown below, the sliding piston moves toward the weaker side, making a ground for the Warning Light.

    You may have a leak somewhere. Check at the back side of each wheel, and at the brake junction box (below the master cylinder) where the warning switch lives.
    --
    Bruce Young
    '93 940-NA (current) — 240s (one V8) — 140s — 122s — since '63.









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      Brake failure light 200

      Every now and then you can resurrect one of these switches by removing it and cleaning out the port that it sits in. Put it back together and if it does not center itself have someone step on the pedal while you crack a line on either side to get it to center up. If this does not fix it and you have inspected the whole system and are confident in the fact that there are no external leaks then go ahead and put a new junction block/switch assembly in. More often than not you will go with a new unit as the fix.


      Rule 308








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        Brake failure light 200

        I have the part number for just the switch at the shop...and just a small FYI to add...my brake failure light came on, after my left rear caliper locked. Replaced the caliper and the rear brakes, the light is on...air in line, right? Bled, and bled, and bled...no air. Replaced the brake block...still had the light. Never got around to replacing the master...but my car wouldn't start one particularly dreary morning...poking around landed me at that little black ground box on my driver side fender...cleaned the contacts..."Abbie" started happy and fine...and no more "brake failure" light...one not needed brake block later...








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        Brake failure light 200

        Rule 308,

        Thanks for the reply, but I think the orginal poster may not see it because by posting below me, I get the email response (new post alert), not him.

        It's OK to insert your response anywhere—directly below whoever you want to be alerted, or you want to make sure sees it.

        For what it's worth, I've rebuilt two of these by removing the end caps, cleaning the inside, and putting in new o-rings (the only part that goes bad). As you know, there is virtually no internal movement in normal operation, so the fix is practically permanent.

        If I'd had more money than time, I might have gone the replacement route, but was quoted about $90 at the time a few years ago.
        --
        Bruce Young
        '93 940-NA (current) — 240s (one V8) — 140s — 122s — since '63.








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          Brake failure light 200

          What size are the o-rings? Or is there a specific Volvo part?
          --
          '80 DL 2 dr








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            Brake failure light 200

            I was afraid someone would ask that. It was several years ago that I did the fix, and just used something handy. Don't recall specifics.

            But I recently (within a few months) advised a young guy from Australia (posts as Lakito or "claiming to be" Chez, about the fix, and he was succesful. Maybe you could search on "Lakito" and get his email address to find out what o-rings he used.
            --
            Bruce Young
            '93 940-NA (current) — 240s (one V8) — 140s — 122s — since '63.







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