I am willing to bet that the problem lies in a lousy connection somewhere, perhaps a battery terminal, a ground to the body or engine, something like that. I suspect that the intermittent start involves the connection's heating up and then giving out. Must be a big wire if the whole car cuts out. Maybe a freak defective battery with a broken plate connection inside?

UPDATE:

Thanks for all of the suggestions regarding the problem :)

I have managed to fit a replacement alternator (20 minutes' work) and will find out whether or not it has cured the fault when the battery is recharged and refitted.

From what I saw on the AA patrol's test meter when it was connected to the battery with the engine running, it would indicate that the old alternator was indeed kaput; The voltage shown ranged from 11.89 to 11.90 which is is pretty damning evidence...

Wish me luck!
--
Volvo For Life. And then some...

Hello James Anness,

I had a very similar problem as you are having at present. The car started and stopped whenever it wanted to and my mechanic couldn't figure it out. Well, I broke down after leaving him, about a mile down the road. When I called him he drove down and towed me back to his shop. He finally figured out what it was! I believe it is called the ballister??? It is located on my drivers side front panel over by the battery. It is a bunch (4) of white tube like cylinders. My sincere apologies if I do not recall the part correctly. As I do not have my Volvo repair manual handy, I am unable to look up the exact name of the part.

Hope this helps and if not, well I do hope you find a resolution to your problem.

Best Regards,

Anastasia Kerr

86' 740t 366,000

I had a problem similar to this a while back where the car would run fine for a while until warmed up and then would die and not restart. It usually died while turning a corner or stopping. Sometimes it would restart but not make it more than a few feet before dying. It turned out to be the crank angle sensor wire was frayed and was not allowing a good connection consistently. Mine is a '92 so I don't know if yours is the same. I was able to confirm this by reading the codes on the computer under the hood before I ordered the part. If you've never done this, look in the FAQ for instructions.

I may be off base here since but since no one else had mentioned it yet, I thought I'd mention it.
--
92 745T 120K; 83 242Ti 188K

James,
Whatever you do do NEVER disconnect the battery with the engine running.

The reason for this is that if the alternator WERE charging, suddenly removing the load (ie the battery) can produce a voltage surge with could ruin not only the alternator, but any of the electronics on the car.

In the worst case, if the battery was gassing the resultant spark at the terminal could cause the battery to blow up in your face!!!

Either change the battery for a known good one, or charge and test the original.

If the alternator is not charging the battery will not keep the car going for very long.

If the engine won`t even crank over you can forget about it being the coil, this has no bearing on the engines ability to turn over on the starter.

If a freshly charged battery does not sort it out you have a poor connection somewhere which will require finding and fixing.

Colin.

1990 740SE B200E/M47, remote C/Locking.

Check the FAQ for alternator problems. Steps:

-does the "alternator" bulb in the instrument panel illuminate when you turn the key to KPII before starting? If it is burned out, the alternator will not charge
-Have the alternator output tested at a shop. You may need a new regulator (instructions in the FAQ). Or just buy one for about US$40 and install it: they are readily available at auto electric shops.
-Examine your battery cables for corrosion and breaks.

Jim,

Check the positive battery lead to the starter. Make sure the connections are tight and clean on the starter end and the battery clamp/terminal is clean on the other end. I'd remove both the positive and negative connections to the battery ... clean the terminals and inside of the clamps. Scotchbrite will clean them up or you can get a terminal cleaner tool at an auto store for a few of bucks. Once you clean the battery connections ... leave them off until you clean and tightened the positive lead connection at the starter (located on the driver's side of the block below the instake manifold.)You may want to apply some anti-corrosion spray to the battery connections and the starter lead. Make sure you get + to + and - to - connections right at the battery when you hook them back up. If the connection from the battery + terminal is loose or corroded it can cause intermitant starting problems like the one you've descibed. Don't mess with the starter connection unless it's disconnected from the battery or you may get a real shock. Hopes this is of some help.
Good Luck.

James,
I had a simular problem with my '89. The alternator was not charging because I impropperly installed new brushes (I did not think it was possible, but I did it). The radio was the first to go dead, then the engine. I had a jump start handy and went on my way. A mile down the road it died again. It was then that I discovered the problem with the brushes, correctly installed them, push-started, and was back on the road. With you having a three week old battery, it is possible that it would "recharge" itself just enough to restart. If I were you, I would check the alternator first (probably just needs brushes replaced) and see how it runs after that. If the "battery" light does not light with the key in the "run" possition, engine not running, then you likely have an open circuit between the alt. and dash, or the brushes are worn-out.
Good Luck
Rick

Maybe a short somewhere, quick check of the alternator/regulator is with the car running pull the positive cable off the battery, if the car keeps running its charging. Maybe you have a bad connection somewhere in the system - corrided connections maybe?