Hi All:
Well, the 940 still doesn't start. Now, its been raining/snowing here, so I haven't had as much time as I would like to work on it. If you recall, the idiot lights come on when I turn the key, the fuel pump does its one second run, but there is absolutely no sound, no click, no starter motion when the key is turned to start. The battery is good (new) and the wiring seems to be tight and in place. I think that it may be the neutral safety switch that is bad. The shift lock doesn't work unless I push the override, and the bulb that illuminates the shifter doesn't work, so maybe there is something in common in that area that is a problem? The reverse lights do work when I put it in gear with the key in pos II. So, where is the neutral safety switch, and how do I get to it? Is there a way to bypass it to see if it is the problem?

Thanks for all your help.

Mike
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Mike Brown Greenville, NC 1996 965 105K 1994 940 135K 1986 244 137K

Dear brownboy,

Hope you're well. For access to the neutral safety switch, see: https://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/TransmissionAuto.htm#NeutralSafetySwitch .

Accessing the neutral safety switch (NSS) is time-consuming. The NSS - Volvo part #9130295 - is no longer available from a Volvo dealer. An NSS from a 1993 or earlier 940 will not interchange with the NSS used in 1994 and later 940s.

Hope this helps.

Yours faithfully,

Spook

Hi Spook. You'll note that the original post is rather ancient and was brought back to life by a recent reply.

For the benefit of those who may trip over this thread in the future using a search, and as the FAQ is no longer being maintained, I'll take this opportunity to document a few extra comments as I've been in the 1994-1995 shifter assembly area a number of times recently.

1) The 1994-1995 940 (and 1994-1998 960/S90/V90) neutral safety switch 9130295 is indeed no longer available, even in the aftermarket, although you may find the odd one on eBay. However, the earlier 740/940 NSS 3544164 is still available and as I best recall can be easily adapted by using the original electrical connector (I can't remember if the wire colors are identical, so trace the wires in the connector back to the solder connections on the side of the switch, replace the entire original wire harness if you want).

2) You're quite right, unless the plastic case or internal plastic slide is broken or damaged, the old switches can usually be put back into service with a good internal cleaning, followed by a thin wipe of dielectric grease on the contact areas for lubrication. Bend the crimp tabs open for disssassembly.

3) As for access, the entire shifter assembly needs to raised up about 3"-4" to be able to get at and remove the switch. This requires disconnecting the trans shifter linkage underneath (great opportunity to install new nylon bushings there). You will also need to disconnect the ignition lock cable at the back, which requires backing off the adjusting sleeve by 2-3 full turns (count # faces to be able to restore original adjustment). I find it best to remove the left console side panel for better access (a bit involved if you've never done it).

4) For removal, as noted in the FAQ and elsewhere, the switch is held in place by push clip nuts on plastic studs. It's a very poor design as the plastic studs can easily break while trying to pry the clips off (replace with a long sheet metal screw if needed). The clips can be carefully pried off by bending up a few of the little internal grip tabs (use a sharp pointy tool, like a scratch awl or sturdy jewellers screwdriver) so you can lift one side of the clip at an angle and basically unscrew it off the post. On re-installation, do the next poor soul a favor and replace the clips with a threaded nut, lightly snugged so you don't strip the plastic (I like using nickel plated acorn nuts, 8-32 size as I recall, available in the specialty fastener section in many hardware stores).

5) With the NSS removed, it's a good time to replace any burned out shift indicator bulb or broken shift control blind (as they are called) p/n 3549927 (FCPEuro carries them). This is the black plastic strip with the raised window that selectively illuminates the P-R-N-D-2-1 indicators in the cover panel. NB, the little white/blue window insert does not come with the replacement part so don't discard the original one! For whatever dumb design reason, the end tabs often break off in the middle at the window in both 740s and 940s and they're difficult, nearly impossible to replace unless the white plastic cover on the side of the NSS can be slid open a bit. I'm currently adding a drop of epoxy or RTV as reinforcement in the crotch of the joint where they break to see if that helps.

6) The shift lock microswitch (on the right side) is another trouble area. They are also mounted on breakable plastic pins (using just one push clip nut it seems). So far, I've only had them come loose and get damaged rather than the internal contacts actually wearing out. You can try using spray contact cleaner, but it will be difficult to get much past the exposed button. Carefully bend the metal tab straight if needed. Again, use a sheet metal screw if the pins get broken.

7) Be very careful when prying up the main cover panel that sits around the shift lever. Push it forward and lift it up at the rear to release it off its tabs (look under the rubber flap). The tabs easily break if you get rough (put it back down with butyl caulk or some such if they break). If you need more access under the cover panel then others say you pop out the overdrive switch and forcefully pull off the rubber handle sleeve, but this is far easier said than done, especially on the 1994-1995 shifter assemblies that use an all-plastic, molded shift lever. If you really need a bit more access under the cover panel then you can unclip and pull off the lower plastic arm and drive the main pin out the other side so you can lift the internal lever assembly up perhaps another 3/4" -any more than that requires removal of guts, which I guarantee you is not a good idea as reassembly is extremely tricky. Also, on the 1994-1995 shift levers, do not try to pry out the large release tab at the top of the shift lever unless you absoluetly have to, again they're a huge pain to reassemble correctly and you may end up needing to replace the entire shift lever if you break something in the process.
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Dave -still with 940's, prev 740/240/140/120 You'd think I'd have learned by now

I need to clarify my hastily written notes for removing the NSS. You need to be able to raise the shift lever assembly up about 3/4" or so in the metal housing to gain enough clearance to slide the NSS off the plastic pins. This requires removal of the lower arm and driving the main pin out the other side to free the shifter assembly from the metal housing. This could be done from below, but you're best off to disconnect the shifter from the trans link from below and pull the whole assembly up out of the tunnel to remove the arm and pin from above.

If you need more access below the shifter panel surrounding the shift lever, such as when replacing the shift indicator blind, you can safely wiggle the shift lever straight up about 3/4" in the assembly before the guts get stopped by the remaining smaller pin at mid-height with the e-clip retainer. You might be tempted to remove that pin so you can get even more access, but you will regret it as the guts and a spring will come with it and it's all extremely difficult to get back together correctly. On reassembly, when you wiggle the lever back down and center it in the openings, do remember to carefully look around the edge of the openings to make sure the rubber seals on both sides of the lever are properly seated and not pinched in or folded out anywhere. If you later have difficulty pushing the lower arm back on, doublecheck the seals in those openings).

Additional notes.
o The OD wire does not need to be disconnected at the trans as there's normally enough slack, but it does make things a bit easier.
o To disconnect the ignition shift lock cable after backing off the adjuster sleeve, reach back under the front of the indicator panel with bent needle nose pliers to grab the end of the cable and push the ball back out of its retaining socket (as I recall the shifter needs to be in the Park position to allow this). If you need better access to the cable adjuster sleeve, you may want to pull out and raise the relay tray a bit.
o Be careful when wiggling the wires that go to the shift indicator bulb holder and the shift lock microswitch as they easily break at the solder points and you will have to do the re-soldering in the car rather than at your work bench. During handling, I keep these wires restrained with tape to restrict movement near the solder points.

Clean the switch!! Disassemble it mechanism,,,there s probably loads of doghair in there,,at least there was in mine!!