New purch. 118k, 94k on the 1995 B230F(FB) replacement engine. The car was running more sluggish as time went on. Mileage was only 17 MPG and the car was getting harder to start. This car has one in-tank fuel pump.

Distributor cap and rotor replaced.
New air cleaner.
Plugs and T-belt were replaced a year ago when the engine was replaced.
Pulled #1 plug and checked for spark. Spark was there.
Checked and replaced a few vacuum hoses and rubber elbows.
Replaced the FPR with a new one.
Exchanged the radio suppression relay with one from another car.
Throtle body cleaned. Flame trap replaced, Hose to TB replaced, port in TB was cleaned out.

Still not start.

Checked for codes from socket 2. None

Ran tests from socket 6. AC doesn’t work (skipped the idle speed compensation), but all tests checked Ok, even the AC test.

Component activation test:
Fuel injectors worked.
Idle air control Solenoid valve worked.
Radio suppression relay worked.

Carbon filter solenoid, don’t think I have one.

Cooling fan does NOT work.
Cold start valve, don’t know if I have one or where it would be and there was no indication of it during the test.
Fuel pump did not run during this test. It does run for a second or two when the key is switched to KP II, though.

Any ideas?
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Tom F Three 940s. Lien holder on two more (the kid's). Rust in pieces, '78 245

Is there any gas in it?

My fuel pump on my '92 940 ust went. Open the gas door and take off the gas cap. Turn key on, you should hear the pump for 2 seconds.

Had a similar problem. Replaced the fuel pressure regulator, the RPM sensor, and the fuel pump relay. Has been starting and running perfect since. (I had also previously done much of what you had.} The fuel pump is a possibility also, but the other fixes are cheaper and probably need to be done anyway. Worth a try, because you do not want to attempt the legendary fuel pump replacement until you have to.

Low fuel pressure is a possibility. Does the exhaust get gassy smelling after cranking for a while? Ultimately it should as the fuel pump would be delivering fuel pressure to the rail. Fuel pumps are funny that way; they'll fail, but they'll still push a lot of fuel. Just not a lot of pressure. The best way is to run a pressure test on the fuel rail and see what it's actually getting.

Another possibility is that the in-tank pump busted it's hose between pump and top of tank. That really ruins the pressure, but sometimes doesn't affect the volume if you only do a fuel flow sight test with an open rail or something. (I can't remember the configuration of the Regina pump offhand, but I think I remember it as having a vulnerable hose in the location described.

Another potential issue would be a weak spark, but that isn't as easy to test for. If you have another Regina car, swap the coils and see what happens. And maybe change the crankshaft sensor, as it could perhaps be sending signal at the wrong point.

And of course, if the timing belt slipped a few notches, it would hose up everything. I'm not sure how it could, but I've seen it happen so many times that it wouldn't surprise me.

I'm sure you're on top of these things already, but just in case you forgot one of them, I thought I'd list them out.

Don't forget to check the Cat. Pull the plug in the front pipe. Spray a small amount of stating fluid in the intake and turn it over. If it fires you may need a new cat. The rex, regina system has a idle control simalar to the bosch system and works the same way. Chris had a good point that it takes fuel pressure to get any fuel past the fuel injectors. Your headed in the right direction tho if you have spark, all you need is good fuel pressure and free flowing exhaust. Good luck.