Have searched the FAQ's - could not find - so what is the best way to clean corrosion on my connectors.

WD40 - is that OK?

Thanks
Andrew in AL
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'91 940T (198K) , '94 940T (160K) , '92 745T (188K)

Best stuff I've ever found is a product called Pro-Gold G5 from Caig Labs http://www.caig.com/ My bricks love the stuff!


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don hodgdon '89 744ti, '81 242t, '71 D-35

I use WD-40, might be wrong but I've had no drama's.
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Budge - Aussie - 1990 740 wagon - B230FB 225k

WD-40 is not OK. It was developed to displace water. The only good use for it on your car is to spray the distributor and wires if they get wet and are arcing off to ground.

Auto supply stores carry different brands of cleaner formulated to clean electrical connections. I use on made by CRC called Lectra-Motive Electric Parts Cleaner. When doing connections that have already begun to show some corrosion I carefully scrape the surfaces with something like a dental pick tor remove the buildup. You might find a small brass brush to further clean the surface. What ever you do do not distort the components. Spray both the male and female ends of the connectors with the cleaner. Use air to blow the excess fluid from the surface or allow to throughly air dry. Put a small dab of dielectric grease on each of the female connections and plug the connector back on. Be careful if you have a wiring harnass prior to 1988 as the insulation can be easily damaged by handling.

Randy

Look for a spray can that says contact cleaner. Use this spray to clean the disconnected connectors. Then spray some dieletric grease in the connector after cleaning it to prevent future oxidation. Do not use dieclectric grease on your oxygen sensor though. See FAQs for more info,
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Paul NW Indiana '89 740 Turbo 108,000

WD40 is a good start. After application, plug and unplug the connectors a few times to scrape off as much corrosion as possible. Then use a spray-pack inert electronic cleaning solvent to flush out all the corrosion debris. Finally, apply a small quantity of WD40 to act as a protectant in the future. This has always worked for me.

Andrew

In defence of WD40: I have spent a lifetime in electronics. 'Croaky' switches in audio and other equipment (including those that were 'sealed') have always responded to WD40 treatment, unless they were totally shot. WD40 (and its clones) penetrates even the smallest aperture and provided a fix where nothing else would. It appears to assist the removal of oxidation by the mechanical movement of the switch. Nevertheless, for heavier corrosion jobs, the procedure given by Randy is good advice.

Andrew

I would like to thank Randy and Andrew for their advice. They both seem very knowledgable and experienced. It sometimes takes more than one stab at fixing things on these bricks and it helps to know another option if the first one doesn't work for you.