Hi. Found this in my diary files on car repair and thought I'd post again - I shot it up here last year about this time after doing a weekend of repair on our 940s. Hope it helps anyone contemplating one of these fixes: My post:

Thought I would share a few observations about a weekend of 94 945T (93k) wrenching – most everything applies to B230F volvos as well. I replaced shocks/struts; radiator, coolant recovery tank and all cooling and heater hoses/heater control valve; rear brake rotors and pads.

Shocks/Struts:
1) Boge turbo gas: WOW. Made all the difference in the world. Especially the back shocks. Not too stiff, not to forgiving. Just right.

2) Front strut replacement: I’ve changed them several times on other 940s/960s – just doing it ‘logically’. The procedure outlined in the faq is by far the easiest way I’ve ever replaced them. Observations: A) Have extra brake fluid on hand. I couldn’t remove the ‘seized’ star bolt that holds the brake line bracket to the inner fender – you must have a lot of slack in the brake lines to swing the strut assembly out of the wheel well. So I simply broke the line loose at the bracket on the inner fender, removed it from the bracket and reconnected it. Upon reassembly, I reversed my steps, and then broke loose the bleeder screw on the caliper to let it drip for 20 seconds or so. No air in the line, no need for a bleed (word of warning: this is how I did it – but I have clean brake fluid as I flush it annually. If you have dity brake fluid, don’t follow this method - especially if you are putting a "C" clamp on your caliper to compress the pistion - as you might push gunk back into your brake line etc…). I did have to add fluid to the master cylinder though. B) On both sides, I forgot to attach the black plastic ‘basket’ that slides over the top of the strut, just above the gold colored, fine threaded ring that secures the strut cartridge into the housing. After this step, you need to simply slip this ‘basket’ on top of the housing BEFORE you reinstall the coil spring/guts assembly. I had both sides back together before I realized I forgot to add this basket. Simple fix: Slit the ‘basket’ with a dremel cutting tool, fed it through the coil spring and around the strut/housing where it belongs. Not pretty, but it worked and should function as it’s supposed to. C) Lube the strut mount bearing assembly. When you pull out the strut housing, it’s on very top of the coil spring assembly (mine was yellow in color). The top of the case simply popped off (using my hand), and I was able to service it and pop the top back on. I think that’s the only interesting things that happened.

3) Radiator replacement: I bought a nissens 2-core from Groton. Very similar to my original volvo unit, only I was surprised how much it looked LESS STURDY. The volvo unit had steel/aluminum (I dunno which) reinforced radiator hose connections. The nissens was just plastic. No reinforcement. The nissens unit had plastic side tanks, just like the original volvo. I thought that the nissens unit would be all aluminum. Anyway, perfect fit and the car is cooling normally.

4) Coolant recovery tank: Cheap fix, and makes the engine compartment look pretty. $39 from my local dealer (has the levelguard feature)

5) Heater core hoses: mine didn’t look to bad at all. However, I changed them. WOW. What a pain. Especially the one under the intake. Be prepared to stretch your arms, wrists, fingers in ways you didn’t know you could. This surprised my on how difficult/awkward it was (maybe this was because I did the other work beforehand, and I was pretty worn out). Definitely cut the hoses at the heater core with a utility knife. Much easier to do all this if you pull the intake, or at least remove the intake bolts and slide the intake a few inches out of the way. I did a head gasket replacement this way - just tying the intake out of the way.

6) Coolant hoses near the oil filter (turbo car): These looked scary. Old, and close to failure. Cheap fix. Basically two rubber hoses that cost under $20 from my local dealer. It’s much easier with your oil filter removed. I recommend doing at your next oil change.

7) (this wasn't the same weekend - just another item in my diary): bumper painting: I had great results painting the bumpers/wrap around valence/side trim/underside grille and plastic on the front and rear on our 92 sedan and 94 wagon. For under $50 (from by local auto paint store), I purchased 1 qt of SEM #39144 Trim Black (acrylic lacquer), 1 gallon of acrylic lacquer thinner and 1 pt of SEM #38354 plastic prep. mixed the trim black 1:1 with the lacquer. The two cars had different color schemes: The 94 had solid black front/rear bumper/trim while the 92 had a combination of black, gray body color and a darker shade of gray body color just on the top strips of the front/rear bumpers. All black areas on both cars were completely faded and chalky looking. However, the 92’s gray paint on top of the bumper was peeling/flaking off, and the lighter gray body color had plenty of nicks and scratches. So I made the whole thing black. First, I used a gray (fine?) scotchbrite pad with some comet/bon ami style powder and water from the garden hose. And I wet sanded the top of the rear bumper with #600 grit paper. I wiped down everything with the plastic prep and a clean, lint free rag. I then began masking off the body color on the fenders/quarters with 3M masking tape. I didn’t use any primer, I wanted to create a nice base for my thicker, heavier coats - which is what I did. The SEM laquer lays down very, very nicely.

this was two years ago - still holding up GREAT - never used primer)

8) Idle problems: Think I fixed the volvo’s low idle – the 945T (94 - 99k) has been having high/low idle problems - it wanted to idle around 400 or 1500+ - there was no middle ground adjustment I could make to the idle screw. I cleaned the throttle body, replaced tune up items, replaced ICC (idle control solenoid - silver ‘cannister’ under throttle body) with no success. I scoured the faq for several months trying to find the cure on my own, with no luck. Thankfully, per Steve Ringlee’s suggestion to check and/or replace the TPS (Throttle position switch) - which turned out was in the faq all along - now things seem to be just fine. I replaced the TPS. What was happenening is when I adjusted the idle screw, I could find a ‘sweet’ spot where the car would idle around 1000 rpms - which was great - as all I had been seeing was 400 or 1500+ rpms. However, as soon as I shut the car off and started her back up, the idle would be crazy low or crazy high again. Basically, I have been living with a 1500+ rpm idle speed for months now - which is no fun with your wife constantly griping at you for riding too close to the guy in front of you’s bumper! (“I’m coasting!!! Look. No feet!!!”).
Anyway, as I didn’t have access to my PC when I replaced the TPS, I did a seat of pants installation - which worked and is what I wanted to tell you guys. I still haven’t read the faq since my fix, but I know my install method was goofy. Here goes - I pulled the throttle body, unplugged and unbolted the TPS - noting where the old switch was positioned. Replaced the switch and bolted it all back up (I had remembered the faq saying something about listening for a ‘click’ and making sure things were perfect, but I was in a hurry and couldn’t access the brickboard.) Cranked up the engine and again, idle problems. So I decided to adjust the positioning of the TPS with it bolted to the throttle body. It’s done with an allen wrench - and is definitely a tight fit for the far allen screw. With a few adjustment attempts (you can slightly twist the TPS on it’s mount by loosening the allen screws), and shutting off/on the engine and readjusting the idle screw, I FINALLY have a decent idle. And have had it for three days. BTW, I also replaced the FPR (fuel pressure regulator - bolts on the front of the fuel rail) but don’t think this made any difference in idle.

9) aftermarket cat replacement: Anne’s 161k 92 940 failed the NOX test two weeks ago during a TX state inspection. I ordered a 'borla' cat from groton - arrived at my door for $125 and included a donut gasket. A year ago, I ordered a cat back exhaust system from volvo independent in houston, tx. It was also all walker parts and hangers. The cat back system fit perfectly - and I didn't even need to use the provided hangers. One thing that allowed it to fit perfectly was the new walker pipe that connected to my old cat converter - the flange was opened up to fit over my old cat. So when I went to install my new 'borla/walker' cat, the end that lead OUT from the cat (toward the back of the car), the flanged end was also expanded. In other words, I had two expanded flange ends to mate up. Got the sawzall out and cut the flanged end off the new cat (BTW - the bends on the new cat were not identical to the original cat - this proved to be problematic). Long story short, I could never get the ends mated up - Had to butt them up, wrap aluminum ducting tape around them and use three band-style radiator clamps to keep things tight. Really had no choice, as I couldn't get the car to a muffler shop to have it all welded up. Today is my last chance on the inspection (TX gives you two weeks to get your problem fixed - and gives you one free retest). Today is the last day of my grace period. Well – the car passed with flying colors

10) Head gasket replacment (945T): Head gasket post on the brickboard: Thanks everyone for all your help last week – I truly appreciate it and hope I can return the favor on this board some day. I finished the job on Saturday and let the car idle in the driveway for about 30 minutes. I drove to church on Sunday – and everything seemed fine. Today is the real test, of course. I made it my 25+ mile drive to work this morning, with no issues whatsoever. The coolant has not dropped, nor have I lost any. When I drive home tonight in the 95 degree temps, I’ll know for sure!

I just wanted to provide a few observations around replacing a head gasket on my ‘94 945T, or dealing with a warped cylinder head. I hope this helps – (in no particular order) – these are items I don’t think I read in the faq (at least all in one place) – and from a layman’s perspective like mine, should be able to help you in your first-time repair:
1) Replacing the head gasket is very time consuming – and I consider myself a pretty good mechanic. I don’t know how many hours I have in this repair, but I would estimate at least 15 – which includes trips to and from the machine shop across town. However, now that I’ve done it once on a turbo car, I think I could replace one on a non turbo car in less than half the time – possibly six hours. The turbo is much tougher to deal with – cooked exhaust fasteners, limited access to the exhaust manifold – my primary difficulties.
2) Pulling the exhaust manifold was the hardest part – YES. But, not for the reasons outlined in the faq. As stated, go nuts with the PB blaster, and you should have no problem with the manifold-to-head nuts. Mine all came off very easily – and this is on a 110k brick. I believe the PB blaster was what saved me from any broken studs etc… The TOUGHEST part about the exhaust manifold – pulling it away from the head – was figuring out how to do it. This is what worked for me: (a) removed the three nuts from the manifold to downpipe flange (right behind the exhaust manifold) – BTW – all studs are 13mm. Six point sockets/wrenches are key. I rounded off one of these, and had to use a sawzall to remove it….. took forever (limited access) and a big holdup. Once this was free, I realized the exhaust manifold was still attached. I then (b) unbolted the cat. Converter (three nuts). And (c) two exhaust pipe fastening points (manifold downpipe – one is to the bellhousing, the other just in front of the cat). This allowed me to slide the pipe out of the way. At this point, I realized the manifold was attached to the block, with a ‘T’ bracket just below the manifold. I (d) removed the oil filter to gain better access to this attaching nut (which faces the bottom of the car). After climbing under the car probably 10 times, I just couldn’t get the leverage to remove this nut. So I spent the next hour trying dozens of 3/8” drive extension combinations to remove this ‘T’ bracket from the block, which I eventually did – and the manifold then moved away from the head/block. (e) – mistake I made next was to remove the nut on this T-bracket I couldn’t remove earlier.
3) T-bracket holding the exhaust manifold in place. When bolting the exhaust manifold back in place, I reattached this ‘T’ bracket (two fastening points to the block) FIRST, and then attempted attach the manifold to this ‘T’ bracket. But the problem I had is the manifold has to slide horizontally on the head studs, yet VERTICALLY Upward on this third attaching point on the ‘T’ bracket – I found this an impossibility. So after much struggling, I unbolted the ‘T’ bracket from the block, bolted it to the manifold – and then bolted it back to the block. Remember, I spent an hour trying to remove this ‘T’ bracket from the block originally – getting it back on probably took 30 minutes J
4) Pull the front RH wheel – and get the car on jackstands in the front. Your back will thank you, and you’ll need to spend a lot of time under the car.
5) Be careful breaking loose the head bolts – mine were very seized up – and broke free with a ‘SNAP’ – Be really careful here. I was quite worried at how tight these were.
6) Replacing exhaust studs/nuts/fasteners – Unfortunately, my local volvo parts supplier only had three exhaust nuts – so that’s all I replaced. And they came in handy (as I lost a few). But IMO, I don’t think I needed to replace my manifold to head studs/nuts. They were all in fine shape. And I was out of time, so didn’t want to make the trip to the dealer.
7) Use anti seize on all fasteners going back on – liberally.
8) Be prepared to buy a back timing cover. These are three pieces. The backing portion, or what attaches to the block/head, was melted on my car – due to the overheating. About $40 from the dealer.
9) Big steps – involved with this repair: (1) remove intake manifold bolts and other attaching vacuum lines etc. and tie out of the way (2) remove exhaust manifold studs, manifold downpipe and T bracket under manifold – pull out of the way (3) remove timing belt cover, pulleys and tensioner – but before, break loose the cam pulley gear (with the belt on, as too keep it from spinning (4) pull the valve cover, break the head bolts loose and pull the head. First you’ll need to remove three things from the LH side of the head – two sensor plugs and a water hose at the back – and pull the plug wires from the spark plugs/distributor cap. (5) pull the head. It’s really not that difficult – but it is time consuming.
10) Buy a ‘head gasket’ KIT from fcpgroton or elsewhere – I think mine was Erling. It included all the gaskets etc for my exhaust, intake, head and several other areas. It also included all the seals etc.. for the machine shop. I still have a handful of o rings and things left – probably fuel injection related (for another day!)
11) Make sure you have the proper torque numbers / order for the cylinder head. I was a bit confused about he instructions in my chiltons/faq – regarding the final torque setting. Which said: 14 ft lbs, 44 ft lbs, 90 degrees final…. WHAT? Does this mean an additional ¼ turn? My best guess: So after my 44 foot lbs, I set the torque wrench to 50 ft lbs, and moved each one probably 1/8 turn. My thinking – I can always retorque – but won’t be able to Untorque….
12) Shaving the cylinder head – OK – I know now the max you want to have machined off is .019”. Mine, they went .020. I was worried, but after talking to my local indy shop who did the initial troubleshooting test, they said I’d be fine. And I seem to be fine. One guy on this board said he’s gone .035 before…. I don’t know about that much on a turbo car.
13) Total cost: about $450 – includes gasket kit, timing belt, machine work on head, cost of indy shop to diagnose, coolant, timing cover and nuts, thermostat, timing belt tensioner.
14) The car is idling much more smoothly today than ever before. And on a hill that I normally take at 60 mph on cruise – I have to take the cruise control off or the tranny will downshift out of overdrive. Today I tried it with the cruise on – no problems. Didn’t labor at all.
15) There were telltale signs of my failing head gasket – I didn’t realize them at the time. (1) coolant was getting discolored from the leaky/failing head gasket – lost it’s green tint and turned brownish yellow. That had been something I noticed for several months. (2) excessive cooling hose pressure – under normal operating temp, you should be able to somewhat squeeze your upper radiator hose – mine, before the repair, were unsqueezable! Now, normal squishy, hot hoses. Also, the excessive pressure was pushing coolant up through the coolant fill tank, and out. Lot’s of pressure/activity in the tank there.

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That’s it. In honor of you, spook :) I hope this helps some of you guys. Best regards, Chris