Hey everyone-
My 82 240GL has had a headlight issue that is seriously driving me mad. It seems to be a charging problem. At idle, my voltmeter reads 14.4 volts at the battery posts. With the fan on full blast it reads 14.2 after about 15 minutes. with the headlights on it can read anywhere between 11.1-12.3 volts. And after about 15 minutes of driving at night my in-dash voltmeter slowly starts to dip into the low end of the gauge (I am guessing around 11 volts). I have replaced the alternator, new regulator, new headlights, new headlight "buckets" with the wiring harness, new headlight switch, and cleaned all grounds on the entire car. I am really confused on what else could be making this car drain so much voltage just at the lights. the turn signals dont drain that much voltage, neither does any other electrical item (except for the rear window defrost...but I just dont use that). Anyone have any thought? I need help!!!!

As always...thanks
Ryan
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VOLVO LOVER WITH AN 80 AND AN 82

I have installed headlight relays on three of our Volvos. Drive over to Vancouver when the ice is gone, and I'll help you do that on your car(s).

You may have a ground connection that is getting warm and less conductive. Use a digital voltmeter to check for voltage drops throughout the electrical system.
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john

I would love your help on this one. How does sometime next week sound?
I will keep in touch with you when this storm slows down.

Thanks
Ryan
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VOLVO LOVER WITH AN 80 AND AN 82

You bet. Send me an email.
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john

sounds to me like your barking in the wrong foliage!

the key here is taht you say the lights do it AND the rear screen...if so then its not to do with the lights (or their wiring...)

the turn indicators use squat all compared tothe headlights....

I notice you dont mention replacing the battery?..sometimes a dieing battery (and if yours has been well flattened a few times its not healthy..) can SINK a lot of current....

if you havent already put a NEW bettery o nthe thing and see how it goes...

also do a drain test for amperage with everythign turned off and just check you havent go a parasitic load on the battery....

I would also change the battery connecting heavy duty cables... one other thought...

also re-reading your post 15 mins of headlights would equate as follows...

assuming 55w lights (you dont say...)

so 110w total @ 12 volts...so about 9 amps draw....

if your battery was say 50 amp hour (which i would think it should be) and in good condition and fully charged it should run those suckers for 5 hours on its own )ok it would be totaly flat, so lets say 2 hours with lights still nice and bright...) i sya change the sucker to start with.....
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Old Volvo's never die..they just get more attention!

the battery is only 4 months old and still holding a 12 volt charge when off.
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VOLVO LOVER WITH AN 80 AND AN 82

I agree with the guy just here... Might be da defective batt, or it might be a bad connection at the batt/cables. Just looking is not enough. I had this happen with a recent batt, the batt checked out fine, but the cable clamps at the batt, while looking clean from the outside were not clean. There was a goo layer of crud between the cable clamp and the post.. It would heat up and get wet, and once it was you could watch the volt meter crash.

With nothin on you want 14.2 to 14.6 volts engine at idle.

With the engine off you want 12.2 to 12.5

Watching the meter with the lamps on you want no less than 10.5 in a few hours.. poor mans load test.. That works better on a motor bike with a 14 Amp Hr batt... Mac