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Boosting the Boost 700 1986

My new calibrated boost gauge reads 7 lbs, but the factory setting (according to an article in the IPD newsletter) is 10.5 lbs. They give instructions for changing the boost, but I need to know how much of a job this really is from someone who has done it.

Thank you,

Steve 86 Turbo 170K miles








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    I agree with John Sargent, the factory setting is 7-7.5 lbs. There are numerous ways to increase boost the easiest being the G valve, the hardest but safest is perhaps the Saab APC adaptation, the most expensive being Volvo's factory boost system. The 86 model might not be the best for higher boost as Volvo modified their design in the following years to provide more durability. I recently tried something that it feels (a day later) to be increasing the boost response and is very simple: the addition of a PVC valve in the line between the intake manifold and the crankcase ventilation system set to keep boost out of the crank. I don't know why but the response seems quicker, perhaps because the boost doesn't leak out to the crankcase. See my previous post of 12/26 "Oil Burning Turbo" for more details. I'd love to have John's thoughts on the PCV addition.
    89 745 TIC/APC 190K miles



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      hows that working..i have a similar issue....have been thinking about a similar idea...but was worried avbout the valve not beign able to take the poresure...
      --
      Old Volvo's never die..they just get more attention!



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        kick
        I really don't see how one can go wrong with the PVC experiment. As I said elsewhere (Oil burning Turbo 12/26/03) I went to AutoZone and got the one with small tubes on each end that would fit the small hose in question. It cost $3-4 and was white and black plastic. I fitted it so that any pressure in the intake manifold would close it, cut the hose near the breather hose junction and forced the small hose on it. It is tight enough that it doesn't need any hose clamps. So far I can see no draw backs the car starts and idles well, takes full boost (10-11 lbs with my APC unit in coolish winter air). It does seem to respond to boost a bit quicker (now like my old 245TIC which had no manifold hose) and cycle a bit quicker on cruise at 70-75mph. It may be my imagination but the response does seem quicker. I won't know about the oil consumption end of it if it does work then the quick loss of oil (blown past a seal?) shouldn't happen again. If it does happen then I will know that it has no effect on the oil problem but it is a rare occurance so it might take a while. If the PCV does prove to be a bad idea it will be easy enough to remove it as there is enough hose to simply remove the PCV and hose end and reinstate the original connection. I don't see how it can do any harm, vacuum in the manifold will still draw in crankcase fumes but now boost in the manifold will not pressurize the crankcase. The rest of the breather system should work as designed. After all the Intercooled B21FT engine had no hose from the intake manifold and seemed to work fine at up to 11-12 lbs of stock boost. Don't worry, with what the rebuild cost me I will keep a close eye on it.



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          hey i hope your right, i have a similar oil problem and at the moment have the little hose cut and plugged as an experiment! (like you i figure the eraly turbo's didnt have them...so they cant be THAT vital.

          My worry about the pcv was the valve failing, the little bit of rubber shooting (under boost!) through the pipes and into the inlet of the turbo - the turbo thats working hard at god alone knows how many rpm....but hey if it works i might well give it a go!
          --
          Old Volvo's never die..they just get more attention!



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      Good thing I asked first because I did not check my manual. I would also be interested in John's thoughts on a PCV valve; it is an inexpensive and quick addition.

      Thank you.



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    I didn't read that part of the IPD newsletter, but I will guarantee the factory boost setting for your car is not 10.5 psi. The factory manual says to adjust the length of the wastegate actuator rod to set the max pressure from 6.5-7.7 psi.

    The wastegate is properly adjusted on your car. If you want more boost pressure, make or buy a G valve. Go to http://Dawesdevices.com. You can search this site under G valve, or go to turbobricks.com
    --
    john



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