I am new to the volvo world and have a question/problem with a 91 245 5 spd that I purchased. It is in excellent shape with 72K miles, always dealer maintained (little old man owned it, you know in FL you get lucky sometimes like that). It shifts great when cool but after a bit in "hot" traffic, it was difficult to get into 1st. So, I have drained the tranny and re-filled with Royal Purple Syncromax (could't find Red Line MTL anywhere). This seemed to help out, much smoother into all gears, however, I still have a problem, although now very sparatic, in getting into 1st. All upshifts are great. Also, reverse always "grinds" into gear. Clutch cable adjustment??? If so, how to on a 91?? or is this just how it is suppose to be and I am expecting to much....Thanks in advance for the help!!

I've seen this type of problem on the FWD posting, and on the SAAB post. The first gear synchro will wear rapidly if used too early on stopping. I've seen people put the car in first at 15-20 mph while coasting to a stop, presumable since that is what an automatic would do. The synchro is forced to accelerate the input shaft to match the considerable first gear speed, and wears quickly if this is done all the time. I prefer to stop completely prior to shifting into first, but it is more a habit since I have 2 cars not synchronized into first at all.

'98 V70 5-spd '92 SAAB 5-spd '88 240 5-spd '71 Mercedes 4-spd '69 164 auto
'42 Packard 3-spd+OD 21 Packard 3-spd

I agree with John - had these exact symptoms and it was a clutch problem - not fully disengaging. If cable adjustment doesn't cure it you are in for a clutch job. Get the OE (Sachs) complete kit. Maybe the little old man liked to rest his left foot on the clutch pedal while driving?
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Bob (81-244GL B21F, 83-244DL B23F, 94-944 B230FD)

Thanks for the input all, but if it is the clutch dragging, wouldn't it drag everytime I down shift or upshift?? Right now it is only giving me resistance about 1 in every 12 attempts, that's what has me puzzled, inconsistant...it does shift fine into every gear with the car not running. I'll try the cable adjustment and see what happens. Thanks again!!!
Mark

..."Also, reverse always "grinds" into gear."....

There are no synchronizers on reverse, so if the clutch is not completely disengaged, it will grind. The forward gears have synchros, so shifting may be stiff, but will go into gear OK. Keep it up, tho' and you'll wear out the synchros quickly.($$$)

In the days before "synchromesh", drivers had to match engine flywheel speed to the clutch driven disc by skill and feel to avoid gear clash. Even with a bad clutch, this will sometimes just happen on a gentle shift (more likely on upshifts), and the shift occurs smoothly. It doesn't mean there's no clutch problem, just means you got lucky, or maybe are getting good at doing the synchro-thing yourself.
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Bob (81-244GL B21F, 83-244DL B23F, 94-944 B230FD)

Thanks again for the help, it certainly does make sense...now for the cable adjustment, do I want to loosen the cable to create freeplay, or tighten to remove freeplay?? From what I can tell at this time, I currently have no free play in the release arm where the cable attaches.
Thanks,
Mark

Okay, I understand the transmission is difficlutl to get into first and grinds going into reverse. These are both symptoms of a dragging clutch. With the engine off, if the transmission shifts into first and reverse easily, I suspect the clutch is not completely disengaging.
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john

No, it should be smooth as silk. It is either your reverse lockout plate (easy to adjust, at the base of the shift lever) or possibly the M47 lubrication flaw. Go for the plate under the shift boot and move it left. Then adjust the clutch where the cable goes through the bell housing. Then worry about the tranny. I doubt it is shot at 70K.

Does the M47 not use ATF like the M46?

Just curious...

Justin B.

ATF
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'75 Jeep CJ5 345Hp ChevyPwr and two motorcycles: it wasn't Volvos safety , it was Longevity that sold me