The toughest part was getting the hoses from the top of the unit. To make this easier, grasp a tiny screwdriver (perpendicular) with a vice grips. Force part of the screwdriver between the hose and the pipe. Spray with wd-30 so that the wd-40 gets under the hose. Then gently turn the hose on the pipe, and push off the hose.

Good luck! Its one of the easier jobs.

The top is sealed with an o ring and the sock is the filter for the intank pump. Be careful when removing the sending unit/pump assembly. Its a pain if you loose the float off the end of the sending unit. It seems to float to a far end of the tank where you can't reach it. You can guess how I know. After a couple of hours with a bent clothes hanger, it took removing the tank for me to finally get it out. Of course this was on an 86 with a steel tank. I am not sure if later years have changed to the plastic tanks like the 700 series have.
Brad

Jim,

Typically the electrical connector on top of the sender unit rusts through. This is of a rather lousy contruction and with plenty of water reaching the top of the tank it just does not last too long. You might find there are no new parts required if you can fix the electrical connection.

I managed to fix the fuel pump by using the 3rd free hose (used for gas-fired engine block and interiour heaters btw) for electrical connection. Unfortunatly it turns out the fuel-out metal line has a pin hole rusted through (92 wagon!) I need to replace the whole sender unit, found one at Groton for $85.

I'll forward you some pictures

Reg,

Jorn

Keep in mind that if the metal tubing coming out of the sending unit is rusty, is can easily break off if you try to tug at the rubber fuel lines...
In that case you might need a replacement sending unit (200$) so be careful.

NO SPARKS too!

It is relatively easy, as long as you have patience, cleanliness, and clean air to breath.

Jim, where did you get the Junction hose? Is it a custom molded one?

When I went into the tank, I spent a little time with a paint brush and a vacuum sucking all the road dirt that is all around the opening before opening.
If you are using a big screw driver or flat bar to tap the Crown nut off, keep moving around to different crowns, it will bind up if you keep hitting the same one...it kind of wedges itself. same when reinstalling.
I used a bit of Vaseline on the 'O' ring and on that Crown nut when I reinstalled.

Ne patient twisting and spinning the whole sending unit trying to get it out of the tank. It's a bit annoying.

Good luck
--
'75 Jeep CJ5 345Hp ChevyPwr and two motorcycles: it wasn't Volvos safety , it was Longevity that sold me

On your pre pump swap...
Be sure to get the Oring for the top bung nut as well as (more importantly) the filter for the new pump. Your old one will be ratty and you do not want to reuse it. Be sure to mark the top of the sender/pump assy before you remove it to ensure it goes back in correctly. Try to have less than 1/2 tank of fuel to avoid spillage... and safety first, have plenty of ventillation and dont' smoke!

It is a pretty easy swap for both LH and CIS injection.

Good luck.