Goddamn... that's quite a steal at $950.

If you don't like the way it handles, sink some money into upgraded shocks, springs, and beefier anti-sway bars... maybe a smattering of polyurethane bushings. IMO, the stock turbo setup is pretty nice for the not so perfect roads around here (much less roll than the non-turbo setup).

The automatic transmission will sap lots of power, and some gas mileage. Oh well. The clicking can be one of two things (hopefully): the relay behind the glove box, the solenoid on the transmission. Ideally with the key in position 2, you'd see the od off light (I believe it's a big orange light on the autos) turn on when you press the switch on the shifter. The firm 1-2 shift is an indication of some wear, and to be expected. There's a rubber ball in the valve body that controls the 1-2 shift, if you feel comfortable digging a little into the transmission you can replace it fairly cheap (check out the Brickboard's 700/900 FAQ for more info). The transmission leak probably isn't serious, but how involved it is to fix depends on where the transmission is leaking from.

The vibration could be lots of things. I'd suspect the transmission mount first, especially given how cheap and easy it is to replace (jack up the car, support the transmission, three or so bolts and you're out). Like any other car with a two piece driveshaft you could have worn the center carrier bearing (or its support), you could have a frozen u-joint somewhere (there are three of them on the driveshaft for your car).

The erratic temperature gauge is probably a failed temperature compenstaing circuit. Just pull the cluster and remove the thing. I've probably got a link to some pictures that Art Benstein has taken of the repair somewhere on my little FAQ.

The bulb out light is probably due to mismatched headlights or parking lights (is the bulb failure circuit hooked up to the parking lights? hmm.). It reacts to small difference in voltage draw between the left and right sides. Two bulbs from different lots even may trigger the light. If it bothers you (and you don't have any lights out), you'll probably want to buy new bulbs (replace them in pairs).

If you're feeling nice and crazy, why not do a timing belt and adjust the valves after you buy the car. To adjust the valves you'll need some shims and a feeler gauge (I don't think it's real economical to rent the tools for just one or two cars so I haven't done mine yet... but it's nowehere near as involved s adjusting the valves on a Ford Focus), I believe most of it can be rented from IPD. The timing belt (engine is non-interference) is real simple, the worst thing I've run into consistantly (okay my bricks are a bit older) was the fan pulley being stuck on (well the nuts that hold it together rather). Since you've got an automatic you'll want a $40 tool to do the t-belt (or you can come up with some other creative way to lock the crankshaft). Grab the Bentley manual. It's not as in depth as the Volvo ones, but for the money you get more useable information. If you start digging into something that needs more detail (like the transmission), spend the money on the Volvo ones (but watch out for their super lame web site if you buy them new).

- alex

'85 244 Turbo
'84 245 Turbo

Hi -

Just saw your post. Transmission in your car is the AW70, same as in my 1988 244GL. (244 is old volvo jargon for series 200, 4 cylinders, 4 doors)

It's a three speed with electric overdrive. The button on the side of the shifter is the overdrive inhibitor. Start-up position is overdrive NOT inhibited. In that situation, the shift into o/d will happen automatically, depending on road speed, throttle position and kickdown cable adjustment.

The shift is easy to see if you have a tach. The DL models did not have a tach stock, maybe on special order. However, the tach is pre-wired, and it is possible to get a kit (eBay) which should include the tach (which replaces the large clock) a plug for the clock-setter hole, a small clock, and the wiring harness to tie in the clock. It is a half-day job, or less.

If you push the shifter button, you should see an amber up arrow on the warning light row, right end. Then the o/d will not engage, period.

The relays clicking are the ones mounted on a rail just below the dash center air vents, (the o/d relay is there) and the fuel system relay that is above the passenger's right toe.

You will want some literature. Volvo publications, including Owner's Manual and Volvo Service Manuals, are available at http://www.volvocars.com/lit or call 1-800-25-VOLVO. There is also a shop manual by Robert Bentley, $40 to $50, look on eBay.

Good Luck with your new ride. You will enjoy it.

Bob

:>)

$950 is a STEAL! Buy it. Any of the problems above can be fixed easily. Congratulations on the price! Michael

This sounds like a good deal. The mileage is very reasonable and low for the year. Figure an average of 15K per year for most cars: this car's seen less than 10K. That's easy use. Certainly it'll need some things addressed, probably some front-end work, but nothing difficult.
The 88 is the last year for the "old" fuel injection, LH 2.2, and it's a strong, reliable system. It's the last year that the timing is adjustable. Unfortunately it's also the last year that is subject to wiring harness problems. I wouldn't kill the deal because of it, but it's just something to keep in mind. Degradation appears behind the alternator, under the intake manifold, and at the grey plug on the firewall. If those areas look ok, i.e. no exposed copper, then it's fine. For now.
The engine and trans should be fine for twice this mileage, or more. Parts are readily available and as cheap as any car could reasonably be these days. For instance, the dist cap is the same part # as for old VW beetles. Proven parts that work. None of the things you mention are red flags to me. The car looks good, the maintenance history sounds excellent, and if it's clean underneath, it's a great deal. Buy it.
As for the fluid leak, that's probably the only area of concern. These transmissions are tough, but one weak spot is that they wear out the tailshaft bushing, wiping out the seal at the driveshaft yoke. A shop equipped with a bushing puller can finish this job in less than 1 hour. Make some phone calls- or call up IPD to see about buying/renting the puller. (www.ipdusa.com) Nice ingenious tool that solves one big headache with this car.
If the leak is NOT coming from the tailshaft, then the trans has to come out, as it's probably lost the front housing o-ring. Also look closely at the trans cooler lines up to the radiator. They wear through at the clamp at the bellhousing and replacement is the only way to go (about $40 each from Volvo).
The other items, including the timing belt, when it's due, are all things you can do at home with normal tools. You'll find the car easy to work on and very straightforward.
Let us know and post more pics when you get it.
--
Rob Bareiss, New London CT ::: 'Roterande Fläkt Och Drivremmar!'

Never been a 240 owner but from what I have read on this board about them all the problems you have mentioned seem very minor. Car sounds like it has been taken care of very well. The temp gauge reading high is probably a faulty TPC board which can be replaced or bypassed. I think the OD relay thingy is a problem on a lot of Volvo models. You can either resolder the relay or get a new/used one. With the warning light either there actually is a light bulb burnt out somewhere or there is a bad connection somewhere. Might just be a dirty contact? The 240 does have a rubber timing belt but it is not an interference motor. If the belt snaps your just stranded till you can get a new one on. 240's seem to be easily capable of reaching 300k miles if properly maintained.
--
1988 760Tic - 155,550 1966 M-B 230 sedan - 98,000 - Sometimes I think the surest sign that intelligent life exists elsewhere in the universe is that none of it has tried to contact us. - Bill Watterson

I would like to just get some general info if I could. I have been reading through the archives. Thanks everyone, I will post some pics in a few minutes.

Crazy,
This deal sounds too sweet. A Volvo can handle, with regular maintainence, well over 250k without anything major going wrong... others may say even more miles are possible with religious care. The questions about the tranny, lights, & temp. guage are all super easy to repair (and for relatively little $). Rather than explain everything here, you should search through the archives in order to get better informed as to what you may need to do to make this ride cherry. If it is truely a one owner deal then I say go for it.