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240 windows driving me nuts

the saga continues...........i about to just break all of them out and call it game over. 1990 240 dl wagon: all windows dead. i installed a new relay, new #10 & #12 fuses and the ground is fine. i also put the back right switch in place of the drivers and it did not work. i am not sure if they are compatiable but i am running out of answers and thought i would give it a shot. still no window action. could it possibly be the switch? i have cleaned it many times with contact cleaner. what else could it be? also when i hit the switch the relay does not click, it least i can't hear it. so that mean no power, right? can i wire new power to the switch direct from the battery or fuse box. if there is a fault in the wiring behind the dash i would rather skip tracing it and start over.

thanks again in advance...








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240 windows driving me nuts

HI -

Can't remember all the details, share in the frustration. Do none of the switches anywhere work?

Can you look inside the flexible rubber harness cover between door and piullar to check for broken wires?

Sounds like relay is not getting pull-in signal. You may be able to provide said signal be jumping from terminal #30 (BN in my 1988 240 WDM) to terminal #86 (BL-Y in 1988 240 WDM).

Good Luck, and remember that 1988 color codes are not necessarily same as 1990.

Bob

:>)








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240 windows driving me nuts

Hi Bob-
None of them are working. Door wires seem fine but I will check them again. Do you mean to jump on the relay? #30 to #86, have you ever done it? Sorry I am not sure exactly what you mean. I would like to just run a power line to the switch if that would fix it but I don't know which spot on the plug to apply power to. VERY frustrating!

Thanks...








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240 windows driving me nuts

OK. Looking over the Wiring Diagram again. The relay clicks on when the key hits position II, "run". You can sort of test it by putting a finger on the horizontal trim piece just below the center vents, in the center or nearer to the Glove box, and then turning on the key. All it does it prevent the windows from being useable without the key.

Do that check and post back if you can't feel it click when turning on the key. You should hear that one and the fuel system (1988 type, above passenger's right toe) click just by moving the key from position I to II and back again.

Once that's cleared, we need to check to see how far the power does get.

The closed relay sends power out terminal #87 on two red wires. One goes to the RF door, the other to the driver's door. There is a connector, one for the LF door and one for the RF. Neither is real easy to get to. RF by pulling the glove box, LF by dropping the driver's knee pad, peeling back the rug, and looking through the wire "nest" just above the driver's left toe.

For the RF door, the connector shoud be visible in amongst the many that are to the right of the glove box. Look in there for a three-wire flat style connector, probably gray. Wires going in are W, R, GN. Coming out and heading for the door are SB, Y, R. Re-stated: W changes to SB, R changes to y, and GN changes to R.

With a voltmeter or test light, connect from R that changes to Y, and to ground. There should be 12V with key in position II.

The connector on the DS is a 9-pin with a herd of wires coming and going. Do the RF door and post back.

OH, and be sure that 12V is getting TO the relay pin #30 (BN wire) with key out.

Good Luck,

Bob

:>)

PS Call 1-800-25-VOLVO and see if you can get the Wiring Diagrams Manual for the 1990 240. It's a good investment, like a Bentley.









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