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Buy Front Suspension Kit . . . or Individual Parts??? 200 1991

My 1991 volvo 240 has 130k miles, with all original suspension equipment. The ride is OK, except for a clunking noise over bumps coming from the front left side. I have checked/torqued various suspension bolts to rule that out. Last week, I replace the rear shocks with "brand-x" from a local auto parts store. While under the car, I noticed the ball joints seem worn, with torn rubber material on both sides.

At 130k miles, which option do you recommend, and why?
- buy just the parts immediately needed ($30-$40 for left/right ball joints)
- perform more diagnostics, perhaps taking to a shop, to verify the real problem
- buy a front suspension kit and replace everything ($75 for tie rods, ball joints, control arm bushings, sway bar end link bushings, nuts & bolts)

[[ southern fried volvo, 91 240 130k mi ]]








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    Buy Front Suspension Kit . . . or Individual Parts??? 200 1991

    I agree with other posts, do as much as you can while down there. Of course, it depends on what work you feel comfortable performing yourself. When my 91 240 had 130k on it (2 yrs ago), I replaced the ball joints, tie rod ends, struts, link pin bushings, control arm bushings, added Ate Power disc rotors, new PBR pads, flexible brake lines, wheel bearings and seals, and caliper seals and dust boots. The FCP Groton suspension bushing kit was about $75, about $70 for rotors, $29 for the caliper seals and boots, $20 for brake lines,plus about $59 for auto zone lifetime warranty Gabriel shocks.

    Yeah, it is best to have a press to remove/reinstall those bushings, but the installation of those parts got rid of any 'play' and clunking noises in the front end, the brakes worked like new and I had PEACE of MIND. Bottom line, add in cost of grease, brake fluid, cleaner, etc..for about $300, I did the job for $1000 less than the shop wanted.

    be sure not to torque the suspension bolts until the vehicle is back on the ground on all four wheels.








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    Buy Front Suspension Kit . . . or Individual Parts??? 200 1991

    Sfv,
    Look around check prices. A kit would be a little cheaper than buying parts individually. I recently did this work on my `86 245. I also installed new calipers and rotors.Did the work in 10 degree weather. Car rides a little better. This summer, I want to put new struts, springs and shocks all around.
    If you have a few extra bucks (who does,right?)and the right tools,go for a kit and do as much as you can in one shot. Leave the middleman out.You`ll need that money to have the old bushings pressed out at your local machine shop-costed me about $10 a pop. Got my stuff at fcpgroton.com. Good Luck.

    Jim S. `86 245 209k Central CT








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    Buy Front Suspension Kit . . . or Individual Parts??? 200 1991

    With that mileage go for the kit. Torn boots mean lost grease and intorduction of dirt grit etc. Don't skimp on critical parts like tie rod ends and joints. You don't want a wheel turning a different direction than you intended.
    --
    92 244 lowered, Bilsteins, IPD sways, Unitek cam/header, TSW Revo 18x8's - 94 965 Niiice MONEY PIT! - 76 Datsun 280Z lowered, modified head, cam, headers, intake








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    Buy Front Suspension Kit . . . or Individual Parts??? 200 1991

    I got a 1991 too and also noticed the rubber boots torn open on the balljoints and was wondering about the best way to repair/replace these. thks
    --
    1991 white 240 auto







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