Thanks for that bit of information, below, responding to TADD's question. So I have to remove the EGR valve before removing the "giant" breather box. That is exactly what I didn't want to hear but I'm glad I know now. I was hoping that I could wiggle a long extension wrench from on top of the manifold, remove the B'box bolts and lift it up and out. I didn't get that far yet. I already sprayed the EGR tubing nuts with PB in case that was the route I had to take.

Any problem taking off the EGR valve besides the lack of space? Tubing bolts tight? Any thing to check for in the valve itself, once it's off? I don't think I'll have a problem with the breather box once the EGR V is out of the way. What was the condition of the old B' box interior?

I have been trying to get this done outside but the weather is not cooperating. I'll have to reattach everything and move it into the garage this weekend.
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Tom F

One more thing...

I found that even getting a wrench on the EGR valve was difficult, being located down so far in the engine. And above all that, I have no idea how it's bolted to the engine. I'd guess there are bolts near the base... but even getting a look at it was hard for me.

I suppose removing the intake manifold would really clear up the access problems. I guess if you went to the dealer and had them bring up a schematic of the EGR valve, you might figure out where the bolts are.

I take it Volvo didn't put the EGR valve on all their cars. I figure the exhaust is probably clean enough without it (seeing as how I always pass the state test with flying colors)... and as for the milage... maybe the EGR valve has something to do with why my 940 T only seems to be able to get 15 mpg in the city?

Thanks for the information, Mr. Penguin. I had spent a half hour plugging and bolting things back together and have moved the car into the garage since rain is forecasted for Saturday.
I will take a close look at it and try to determine if the manifold has to come off. I "ain't" gonna do that, not soon anyway. I already have a replacement, B'box and hoses, around $40+. I will re examine the EGR V and the piping and go from there but if that fitting is anything like the trans pan filler tube fitting... I have read the flush procedure and will use that if all else fails. This is a new purchase with no history so I'm giving the car a work over.
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Tom F

>I have read the flush procedure and will use that if all else fails. This is a new purchase with no history so I'm giving the car a work over. <

I found that reaming out the tiny hose connecting the intake manifold to the breather box intake made all the difference. Now my car passes the 'jiggle test' with flying colors... even though it's a plastic cap.

Well I'm no expert... because I didn't remove the EGR valve... and I didn't remove the breather box.

Removing the EGR valve looked to be very difficult... mostly because the threads to the large aluminum pipes seem totally blasted by heat and corrosion.

Removing the breather box isn't totally necesarry... instead one can either pour some engine degreaser through the top of the box as detailed in the FAQ section during an oil change... or else just clean everything else about the flame trap system that can be removed. Cleaning that tiny pipe at the top that connects the input manifold to the 'Y' pipe going into the top of the breather box is the most important! Ream that out with a wire... or else replace it.

I scoured the brickboard for information about removing the EGR valve... and came up with very little. There were a couple posts about people in the same situation... who didn't report back what happened. It's sort of an unexplored procedure I think. Anyhow, my EGR valve seems to be working okay... so I left it alone.

Good luck!