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Changed O2 Sensor, now 'Check Engine' light will not go off 200 1991

posted by  southern fried volvo on  Tue Oct 29 17:47 CST 2002
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last visit: Thu Dec 19 00:38 CST 2013
[RELATED]

I changed the O2 sensor on a 1991 240 over the weekend. Instead of replacing it with an OEM 3-wire sensor ($120), I crimped on a single-wire unit (Bosch part #11027, $17.99). Everything was fine for 120 miles, then the "Check Engine" light came on. I disconnected the battery to reset the warning light, and rechecked everything. After driving another 3-5 miles, the light came back on. This keeps occurring whenever I reset the light.

Any suggestions? Did I get the wrong part? Is a 3-wire sensor necessary? (In this region, the temperature seldom reaches freezing point for more that a few days during the winter.) Should I solder the new sensor wire, insted of crimping it?

[[ southern fried volvo '91 240 120k mi ]]








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    Changed O2 Sensor, now 'Check Engine' light will not go off 200 1991

    posted by  someone claiming to be miracleman49 on  Wed Oct 30 04:36 CST 2002 [RELATED]

    I recently replaced the 3 wire O2 sensor on my 91 240 with 160k miles.

    the check engine light would not go out. I disconnected the battery on two occasions...no help.

    someone advised to disconnect the battery for AT LEAST 10 minutes (give electronic components such as resistors and capacitors adequate time to bleed the voltage to ground and thoroughly reset).

    I disconnected battery for 15 minutes..presto, no more check engine light and car runs fine.

    Auto Zone carries the 3 wire universal replacement for about $35, 90 day warranty.

    BTW, the universal sensor comes prewired with a connector that will not match anything on your volvo. I researched and discovered it is a common connector from 89 ford products such as the taurus and mercury topaz. I got my hands on one, soldered it to the 3 wires from the old O2 sensor and now I have a convenient connector to plug the O2 sensor into without having to twist the sensor wires while screwing it into the exhaust.








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    Changed O2 Sensor, now 'Check Engine' light will not go off 200 1991

    posted by  someone claiming to be Brad on  Wed Oct 30 04:11 CST 2002 [RELATED]

    Tried this on an 86 and it didn't work. Had just bought the car. Had it less then 6 months. In anticipation of upcoming smog check I replaced the O2 sensor. Was told that the splice would work fine and the new sensor would make the car run better. Well for the first month the car ran great. Then like some one thru a switch, it ran like crap. Finally took it to the shop and they found that the O2 sensor was bad. They put in a new OEM sensor (bosch) I think and the car ran great and passed Ca smog fine. I would try to solder the sensor connection first, but figure on having to replace it with OEM.
    Brad








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    Changed O2 Sensor, now 'Check Engine' light will not go off 200 1991

    posted by  someone claiming to be Alex on  Tue Oct 29 21:24 CST 2002 [RELATED]

    Check the codes to be sure. You should have LH 2.4 or 3.1, which stores codes. Check the last 3 digits on the AMM part ## to make sure.

    But.. I believe that all post 83 or 84 Volvos with cats got the three wire (pre heated) O2 sensors. IIRC the later cars will actually set the light if the O2 sensor doesn't become operational quickly enough. BTW a generic 3 wire sensor that will fit is about $50.

    - alex

    '85 244 Turbo








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      Changed O2 Sensor, now 'Check Engine' light will not go off 200 1991

      posted by  dbostrom on  Wed Oct 30 01:42 CST 2002
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      last visit: Wed Feb 1 13:16 CST 2012
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      Yes, and the heater doesn't really have anything to do with the ambient temperature. As Alex said actively heating the sensor is a substitute for hot exhaust gas in order to get the sensor working faster.








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        Changed O2 Sensor, now 'Check Engine' light will not go off 200 1991

        posted by  southern fried volvo on  Wed Oct 30 05:14 CST 2002
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        last visit: Thu Dec 19 00:38 CST 2013
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        Thanks for the info! I will go back and SOLDER the joint first! Digging through another manual, it says the O2 sensor requires a GOOD electrical connection...

        Before replacing with a 1-wire sensor, I looked at several older notes on the Brickboard. Nobody mentioned any follow-up problems. Ff resoldering doesn't work, I will try a 3-wire O2 sensor next.

        [[ southern fried O2 sensor... ]]








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    Changed O2 Sensor, now 'Check Engine' light will not go off 200 1991

    posted by  Edison517 on  Tue Oct 29 18:32 CST 2002
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    last visit: Thu Dec 13 18:10 CST 2007
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    Just me, but I'd solder it and cover it with heat shrink or lots of electrical tape. I never liked crimping wires. Hope it all turns out ok; I think I'm going to dump $120 into an OEM replacement for mine.

    Seth
    '92 244, 211k







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