Because of a desperate need for new struts, I've decided to go ahead and replace my leaky (and noisy) power steering rack as well. My question is, should I go ahead and tackle other stuff in the front suspension while I am at it? The car has 191k on it and I have no maintenance history (except what I've done in the last 6 months). I am trying to avoid coming back in 3 months and taking it all apart again to do something minor that I could do now and save some time. I can't get a good feel for the suspension because the struts are so bad and the steering rack is definitely shot. I'm also wondering whether I should pull a power steering unit from a junkyard or buy new/remanufactured?

This is the first time I'll be trying this sort of thing so any tips would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Mark

Test the steering column universal joints for stiffness in both aspects. You'll need to loosen the lower joint when you remove the steering rack.

These tend to stiffen in one pivot or the other. Typical symptom is a "rachet-ing" of the steering wheel (alternating periods of normal-stiff-normal)

They tend to cost about $50 each. But, you don't want to climb up in there again once you have done all that work on the rack. (You'll also need new bolts & cotter pins)

At 191K miles, it usually is a good thing to think in terms of repairing systems (e.g. steering, suspension, exhaust) rather than repaining the lone broken part.

Bring the whole system up to grade and you'll enjoy the benefits as long as you own the car.

Besides, in any major project like yours, there are bound to be needs to go back in there to re-do something that didn't quite get done correctly the first time. (my exprience talking, not any comment on your skills)

By doing everything you can afford to replace in the project, any time you revisit can be devoted to the inevitable re-work, instead of going back to it for additional repairs later.

Just looked at the "RPR" ad by clicking on a link on this page - they have a special on rebuilt racks at $239.99, including boots and inner tie rods. Plus other front end stuff.

Quality rebuilt racks are not cheap, so you have to ask yourself if the rest of the car warrants the expense and effort. Otherwise, you are taking a chance on a used unit, and in my experience (and my dealer's service mgr) the 240 racks are prone to leak. After two dealer-installed seal kits did not stop the leaks, I sprang for a Volvo-guaranteed rebuilt unit, and this has been fine for three years now. I think they are around $400 in the IPD book. (Ouch)

If struts and rack are shot it's probable that the rest of the front end could use some help. Other posters will have their advice, but it sounds like the opportunity is here to get your entire front end up to spec in one (big) project.

I just recently replaced the rack on my Volvo as well. I would recommend going with a new or reman rack as opposed to a used one from a junk yard. you never know what you'll be getting from one of those places. I picked mine up for 160 bucks from my local parts store (kragen).
While you have that off, you might want to throw on some new tie rods. And maybe the lower ball joints since you're going to have the struts off too. if anything, definitely do the tierods, I picked up new ones for about 20 bucks a piece and it is recommended you remove them when installing a new rack anyway. good luck!

Bill Marsh
86 Volvo Wagon
68 Camaro
61 baja bug

Mark --

If you dig into your front end, particularly steering stuff, then it's a good idea to have it aligned afterwards. To save money, consider doing it all at the same time so you only need to pay for alignment once.
--
Don Foster (near Cape Cod, MA)