When I did mine, last week, I pulled the crossmember and stuch a wrench in the hole so the wrench went "over" the nuxt (the wrench sticking strsight out of the hole). I then put a crescent wrech on the handle of the wrench on the nut, and turned it out. A little far from standard procedure, but it worked.
-Kenny

Usually I can force a regular depth 1/2 inch drive socket in there to remove
the bolt. When it's out of alignment the bolt can be a pain. If you really can't
get a socket on it, just remove it from the trans side like Chris suggested. That way you can work on it off the car. On the tough ones I can usually get it with a 3/8 wobbble extension on the socket. This lets you be at an angle to loosen the socket on the trans mount nut.

Make sure you inspect the crossmember for rust if you live in the salt belt.
Dave 82 242ti 263k mi.

I don't work much on the old cars, but the M47 trans in the later 240 and 700 has a bracket that holds it to the transmission. It's easiest to remove the bolts that hold the bracket into the transmission, and thereafter remove the whole crossmember with the bracket attached. I can't remember anymore if that's the procedure for the M46. Although I did a bunch of them, it was at least six or seven years ago on the last one.
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Chris Herbst, near Chicago, IL. 93 940, 91 240, 90 240, 88 740, 87 240