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Bleed screw broke off - can it be fixed? 200 90

posted by  someone claiming to be Bruce on  Tue Dec 11 05:14 CST 2001 [RELATED]

90, 240 DL

Well, yesterday after installing a caliper and then bleeding the entire system, when I was on the last bleed sequence (lower front), the bleed valve broke off on the first pull (yes, I had PB Blaster'd them prior to the job). S___ happens! Well, I was told to just drill out the remainder of the broken screw, vacuum the hole and spray it out with brake cleaner or brake fluid, use a screw extractor, and IF I get it out, then install new bleed screw. The metal drill particles will push backwards and not enter the caliper hydraulic cavities.

But another guy tells me that the metal filings from the drilling will go into the caliper cavities, eat up the seals, and can't be gotten out because they sink to the bottom and bleeding will not remove these metal particles. New caliper is the only solution.

Both approaches sound logical. I prefer the first solution. I'm getting really sick and tired of replacing parts on this car. Anyone do this job with success?

Bruce







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    Re: Bleed screw broke off - can it be fixed? 200 90

    posted by  someone claiming to be Haroon on  Tue Dec 11 13:50 CST 2001 [RELATED]

    Bummer, I would remove the caliper, take it to a bench and try drilling out the old screw. Put a pivot hole in and then get the nut remover kit from napa or sears. (or see if a machine shop can do it)

    I forgot, are there two bleeding screws in the rear caliper? It may best to remove a good screw and study the drilling strategy from there (or buy a new screw first).

    I don't like the reverse drill ones (easy out, I think), I've had better luck with the ones where your drill and then tap the hole with a metal tip.







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    Re: Bleed screw broke off - can it be fixed? 200 90

    posted by  someone claiming to be Haroon on  Tue Dec 11 13:29 CST 2001 [RELATED]

    Bummer, I would remove the caliper, take it to a bench and try drilling out the old screw. Put a pivot hole in and then get the nut remover kit from napa or sears. (or see if a machine shop can do it)

    I forgot, are there two bleeding screws in the rear caliper? It may best to remove a good screw and study the drilling strategy from there (or buy a new screw first).

    I don't like the reverse drill ones (easy out, I think), I've had better luck with the ones where your drill and then tap the hole with a metal tip.







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    Re: Bleed screw broke off - can it be fixed? -fond(?) memories 200 90

    posted by  someone claiming to be Paul Kane on  Tue Dec 11 07:38 CST 2001 [RELATED]

    Bruce

    It's always the LAST one isn't it?

    Ran into the same prob years ago with my 1 Year old 544 (Do the math).

    If you get to the point where you need an EZ-Out, proceed very slowly. I broke one off flush - Had to replace the cylinder.

    BTW If a 544 owner sees this post - those 'ferin' cars had the same wheel cylinders as a Studebaker

    PK







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    Re: Bleed screw broke off - can it be fixed? 200 90

    posted by  someone claiming to be George Downs on  Tue Dec 11 06:43 CST 2001 [RELATED]

    New caliper is NOT the only solution!

    The flutes on the drill bring most o the shavings up, especially if

    you STOP when it goes through and pull the drill out with it still

    running. One thing you can do is prepare to back flush by taking out

    the pads and putting in some that are very thin or have no facing at

    all (bare steel plates) and press the brake till they go in against

    the disk. Then after you drill, push the pistons back in to expel the

    stuff through the hole. Do it PROMPTLY upon finishing drilling!

    Remember that a brake caliper is not a high speed or rotating mechanism,

    and it has a very short stroke. Therefore it is fairly dirt-tolerant.

    If your seal does go bad, (and I have the original seals in the original

    calipers on the front of my 69 164 with 279,000 miles, likewise my

    66 122 wagon with 225K) the leakage will begin slowly and the red light

    will come on probably AFTER you notice seeping brake fluid. The Volvo

    dual braking system is pretty safe even on one half.

    Don't let them scare you!

    If you can find a LEFT-HANDED drill bit you may be able to pull the

    thing out without drilling through it. If it hangs up, it just

    screws it out.






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