This is the 71, 1800 that I just recently purchased and asked you guys for advice on how to prepare the engine before starting. Did everything you all told me to do and I think is going to be ok. Now the problem, it turns and turns but won't start. No fuel to the injectors and no spark to the sparkplugs. There are some wire disconnected inside the car that I have no idea where they go (two yellow wires)just hanging from the interior right next to the fuse box. When I first try starting it, the fuel pump would not come on, took it apart and now is working (don't know if its sending enough fuel to the injectors)but does not sound as strong as my 75, 164e. It sounds very weak. I disconnected it and I hope I put the hoses where they were suppose to, I think they are right. I'm not getting any spark at the spark plugs and I'm still playing with it to see if is something disconnected. Sounds like there is no current whatsoever. Any advice will be greatly appreciated. This car has not been started for 11 years, so I will be patient for now. My other concern is that there is a white wire right next to the ignition coil that I don't know where it goes. I probably need to buy a manual for this car to trace all the wiring. Any ideas are very welcome.

Luis

75, 164e

71, 1800e

I didn't read all the messages and not sure how far you got. Any way I have a few 1800 FI. When I find one the first think I do is start it. What worked for me was hot wire it to get it running. Since most of my cars been sitting for years and rusting, I would forget the gas tank and lines and hook the pump up under the hood. A small contaner of gas. You'd have to disconect some lines and add some temp ones. Once I get gas flowing threw the system then I check spark, a wire from the battery to the coil would by pass the switch. Then another for the starter. I'd also put some gas/oil mix in the spark plug holes and turn the motor to check spark with out the plugs in. That make the motor turn easier and helps get things working inside. Be careful not to get gas all over the motor cause it can start a fire. There is a green wire from the + on the battery that goes to FI electrical stuff. Also another one that works the relay, that one would get conected to the + on the battery with a jumper wire. You should hear the relay click if you got the right one. The injectors can come out to see if they are working. It's not much trouble if they all come out at once. With the fuel pump running and by working the throttle at lease 2 should spray, the motor would have to turn for the other 2 to spray. If you can't get them all to spray then the points in the bottom of the distributor could be dirty. If you work the throttle with the injector in and there is current to the FI you should hear a click sound. Getting back to the gas tank and pump. A temp hot wire to the pump may help. Normally the pump only comes on for a second to two when you first start the car. Once the car is started the pump will run all the time. I ran a temp wire from a parking light in the trunk to the pump. This is just a few things that worked for me. I havn't messed with FI for a while now. I got into pre 70 with carbs. I have a book for the 71. If you need wiring stuff let me know.

There are a number of electrical causes for the fuel pump not working.

But First !!! disconect the fuel line at the input to the fuel rail and direct this hose into a container. You will be trying to get the fuel to flow and you don't want to send a lot of gunk out of the Fuel tank into the injectors, they aren't easy to clean.

Since you have no spark and no fuel, there is one thing in common. The power for the fuel injection relays comes from the hot side of the coil.

if the coil isn't getting power then neither is the FI relays.

basically the flow goes like this:

Key switch on position turns on power to the coil - test this with a 12 volt test lamp.

That wire (from keyswitch) goes to the Hot side of the coil, also connected to the hot side of the coil is the wire that goes into the harness adn over to the passenger side fender well where the FI relays are. They are next to the battery up under the inside of the fender (chcek all of those connectors.)

A short wire (usually white) goes directly from the coil to the spade connection on the side of the distributer ... to the points.

If everything is correct, when you turn the key to on (not start) you should hear the Fuel pump turn on for a couple of secconds, if you don't you still have an electrical problem - OR - you have a seized fuel pump. They get stuck from sitting and are pretty hard to get going again, sometimes you can tap on them to get the freed up, but even though I try everytime, once they get seized you have to replace them , and they aren't too cheap. Be wary of ysed ones for the same reason and don't run the pump dry for very long as the fuel actually cools and lubricates the pump inside.

If you are really stuck.... what I do in the field... I mean in the field when I want to bring in a parts car from out back...

I take a short wire with aligator clips. Attach one end to the positive battery terminal, the other to th Hot (+) terminal on the coil. When you turn over the engine with the key you should have spark - or you have a problem with the the coil, disp cap, points or plugs.

Then attach the alligator clip to the wire going to the FI relays. You should hear a click and the fuel pump should run for a moment. This gets a little frustrating when working alone because the pump only stays on for a moment. You can find the correct wire for the fuel pump and hot wire that to see if it is working....

Pleae be carefull with any arcing wires if you have taken the fuel hose off, and since a little Kiddie Fire ext is So Cheap , have it standing By ! :) It's not a bad Idea to keep one in the trunk when you own an "older" car.

Good luck

Scott:

Today, I got spark. Checked the coil and took the hot wire from the coil and pointed it to the block and there is spark. Now, this means that if there was gas going to the injectors, then the car would start. So I think the electric part may be solved (hopefully). When I first try starting the car, the fuel pump would not come on. Then after disconnecting and playing with with for a while, including taking the damm thing apart and putting some WD40 in it, it starting working.

That's why I mentioned previously that it may not be sending enouth fuel to the rail/injectors. I took the fuel lines off today and there is no fuel at all. So it may be that the fuel pump is gone. The other problem I noticed was the the throttle switch is not working. With the ignition on, I move it back and forth, and I do not hear the little clicks as the throttle switch moves, do you think this may have something to do with it? I have another fuel pump from a 75, 164e, but they are not the same. I'm wondering if by using this pump, it will deliver fuel to at least clear/clean the lines. I thank you greatly for all your information. I went ahead and ordered a new fuel pump (you right, this thing is pretty expensive) and expect to get tomorrow late. Please keep me posted, I will do exactly what you told me to. This thing is going to run one way or another.

Thanks,

Luis

75, 164e (the beast)

71, 1800 (the beauty)

The manual is a must if you want to keep the car. I saw the Haynes manual on Amazon the other day for under $15 US. As far as your curent needs, I would trace out some of the wiring to determine if you are getting current to the correct locations like the distributor. The wiring is not that bad to trace so make sure that you get current to needed parts first and after the car gets running you can figure out where the remaining wires go. If you know that you are getting current to the distributor then the fault is between the distributor and the plugs. Just follow the process of elimination.

As for the fuel system, I will let some of the fuel injected gurus anwser that one. ( I prefer carbs ). On my 1966, (which has Carbs) I installed a clear fuel filter just before the machanical pump which makes it easy to see if the pump is pulling in fuel from the tank. After a long sit you are almost sure to have rust in the fuel line and the tank. To test the line, you could disconnect between the tank and front end so that you should be dealing with only an open line, blow through the line with an air hose. You may be surprised to find that the line is plugged. Once you are sure that fuel can flow the entire distance, then you can worry with the fuel pump and injectors. My 1800 also sat for 10+ years and the fuel line was completely packed with rust. I used WD40 and a good air hose to clear it out. I also took out the fuel tank and had it cleaned at the local radiator shop.

Have patience, you will enjoy the auto for years when you get it running. Good luck with the project.....

fyi

don't put an ordinary clear fuel filter on a FI engine - they can not handle the fuel pressure or the rate of delivery and can burst causing a very serious fire. !!!