So, friendly folks -- I've just got my "prospect", a '87 240 DL with something on the order of ~240k mi, back from the mechanic's pre-purchase inspection.

They report that basically every bushing in the transmission is cracked (rear torque & trail arm, front lower control arms), that there's some play in the LF ball joint, an inoperative overdrive, a loose water pump, some leaky transmission seals (front seal I believe?), "some valve noise when cold", and a non-functional oil-pressure warning light. Along with myriad small cosmetic things.

Now -- correct me if I'm wrong here. I'm looking to buy this for ~1600. It sounds to me like if I do the labor myself (something I've never done, but feel fully competent to do, with a good manual), that the bushings and the ball joint shouldn't be a problem, nor should they be too expensive. The overdrive is probably an electrical problem, from what I've gathered. Sounds like fun to me to much around with all this, actually.

So that leaves the oil-pressure light -- the mechanic was quite concerned about this in conjunction with the valve noise when cold, suggesting camshaft etc not getting enough oil. I'm figuring that if I ensure there's good pressure in the future, this shouldn't be a problem for a while, and then I can have the exciting experience of rebuilding the head.

Am I insane to buy this thing (as the mechanic suggested)? I truly enjoy working on things, though I haven't spent much time with cars, but it doesn't sound like too much of a mental challenge, at least, though it may be a lot of work.

Thanks for your advice.

-C

another one from the autotrader web site:

1985 VOLVO 240DL, white ext, tan int, recent work incl rblt trans, new starter, new exh, brakes, batt, heater hose & more, straight body, good paint, clean int, $1550 obo, Jeff, 323-258-9843

I know a good independant in So cal. If you live int eh 48 lower states, maybe you can fly out (fares are dirt cheap) look at a couple, have them inspected and drive one home...

no snow means no rust

Colin: Sounds like high mileage and potential engine problems. Just for comparison, I just paid 1550.00 (USD) for an 86 with a B230F engine, 98K miles, very clean (no rust or dents, nice paint, nice interior) and a good running motor/transmission.

This car turned out to need a lot of work, though..tires, brakes, shocks, struts, trailing arm bushings, blower fan. But the basic mechanics are sound, so the car has a lot of life left in it. I'll end up having paid too much, but the engine is sound and car has low miles, so I should have it for a long time..perfect second car.

There is a 240 for sale down my block, an 85 with 77k miles on it. This car is gorgeous, and the owner has done all the work already. He's asking 3500., but I think he'll take 3k. That may sound high, but you have to see this car..and have it inspected!!! If you're in the NYC area (queens) and are interested, let me know. I don't know all the details, but could find out for you if you like. If this car had come up for sale before I bought mine I might have grabbed it (for 3, not 3.5).

I have to agree with the others here, in retrospect it's better to spend the money up front. I'm not unhappy with my car, I'll get the money back in the long run, but next time I won't skip the inspection!!!

Good luck and have fun!

gberger@nyc.rr.com

I'm sure you're up to the challenge. But if you put $1500 into a $1600 car, you'll have a $3000 car that's worth about $1000. That makes it a bad buy.

For $1600, you can get a better car than that. Maybe not much better, but as it stands now, you can get something more than that.

Find the cleanest, nicest, most mechanically sound Volvo you can. Spend the money up front. Find one with less than 100,000 they are out there.

I purchased a beater and did the work, but we have five Volvo's. I also have lots of parts. I still think it best to spend the time driving not fixing.

That's a long list of problems, most of which it sounds like you "need" before it will be your daily driver. That's getting old, and the miles are pretty high. You can bet that other things will pop up soon, too, considering the way the previous owner maintained it.

I wouldn't pay more than $800 for it. If you have $1600, you can get a 240 in better shape, in pretty much any part of the country. If you can get it for around $800, the repairs are do-able. You will be busy!

The oil pressure switch is important to have working. It should not be difficult to fix.

Just my two cents!

Greg

For $1,600 you could do better, I think. I could live with the other bugs, but you should insist on a solid B230.

My two cents.

smm

Steve Merelman wrote:

> For $1,600 you could do better, I think. I could live with the other

> bugs, but you should insist on a solid B230.

> My two cents.

Whoa, you wrote the same thing I did! I was just going to say "Just my $.02 but then I thought it would be sorta whimsical (on a pretty subtle level) to write it out.

Maybe a case of great minds thinking alike? :)

Greg

take a quick look on the autotrader web site - I saw many 240s selling for less than 5,000 here in So Cal. some with less than 100,000 miles on them.

it takes a lot of abuse or neglect to kill the engine in a 240 - and that engine sounds like it was abused or neglected. I'd take it as a sign that other problems were undiscovered and lurking. It's a car I'd pay no more than about $500 for - as it will take a lot of work to restore it.

by way of comparison - here's one ad from trader online (it is a dealer but)

1988 VOLVO 240GL-loaded, xlnt cond, runs great, $1650, vin #B29524, customer satisfaction, guaranteed financing, 90 days warranty, 10 days exchange, 3 days money back, A 1st Choice Towing, 4969 Baltimore Drive, La Mesa, (619)337-1700 REF:PYXVW

If your mechanic think you're nuts to buy it, I wouldn't. The bushings may require a press to install so that's more involved. I know the urge to buy a nice car, and I've overlooked things that I shouldn't have in the past. There are better 240's around. I bought a 244 for $700CDN and put $1000CDN in to it. It needed a gas tank, tank sender, brakes, tie rod, OD rebuild, etc...and I did everything myself except the tank. I thaught that was a pretty good deal, and so did my mechanic. Take his word for it.

Rene

All-

Thanks so much for the quick and helpful advice. I'm going to see if I can bargain this guy down to ~1200, as he's been an incredibly helpful and honest seller, I have the money, and I don't actually need the car as a daily commuter (still a college student; just need it to make it to the city every so often).

If I actually end up purchasing the thing, you'll see me posting here on a daily basis trying to figure out how to get my transmission/engine/dashboard back into the car! (without the proper tools, of course).

Thanks so much!

-C

Listen to good advise you are getting from your mechanic and Bricksters. Spend your money on a 200 or 700 Volvo in better shape, even if you have to pay more money up front. Look up 700/900 FAQ in the features menu at this website and you will find a laundry list of preventive maintanace to be done when you buy a used Volvo in good shape. Even this preventive maintenance takes a lot of labor and money. Never mind a car with a laundry list of repairs to be done before you can even think of preventive maintenance. It will be a bottomless money pit that will leave you no time to do what you have to do: STUDY! Best regards.

Ok -- finally having been chastised strongly enough to set me straight (and havingnfound a beautiful blue 240 wagon on Yahoo! Autos), I'll keep looking. Thanks again. -C