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Thank you Bob and David. Problem is solved now. I followed your instructions to check voltage, resistance, etc. Voltage at IAC connector center female was 13.4 volts with engine running. Resistance between IAC center pin and one end pin was normal at around 20 ohms. It was infinite between center pin and other end pin. I took IAC apart, cleaned it, put it back together and read about 10 ohms resistance for each end pin and center pin. Still, IAC valve opened, but did not close. This made the car idle at nearly 2000 rpm. I took IAC apart again and now cleaned it as best I could with electrical parts cleaner. Tested again for resistance, IAC checked normal at around 20 ohms for each end pin. Tested for valve opening and closing, IAC opened and closed so forcefully it jumped in place. With IAC back on the car, idle was spot on at a bit over 700 rpm with CIS contact grounded, around 750 rpm ungrounded. Idle rpm still fluctuates a bit as registered in the accurate Fluke 88. Any ideas regarding idle fluctuation? I have checked for air leaks but find none. Regarding IAC, I guess PB Blaster I used to clean the valve head got inside the motor and created a short. I say this because I read resistance as low as 6 ohms and because the PB Blaster label says it is magnetic. For Brickboarders now and in the future, follow instructions at 700/900 FAQ on checking and overhauling IAC. It works. Use PB Blaster to clean the valve head if you like, but I suggest you use plenty of electrical parts cleaner spray to thoroughly clean the electric motor and prevent shorts due to dirt or other contamination. Again, thank you David and Bob. Thank you Steve for 700/900 FAQ. Thank you Jarrod for BB. Best regards to all Brickboarders.
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