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Socket 2 fault codes 121 & 232 700 1989

Okay gents, who knows about those fault codes? My Check Engine light came on yesterday evening on the drive home, with no apparent symptoms other than a fairly high idle, 1500-1800rpm. After checking the essentials, oil, coolant, I warily made my way home to check the fault codes.

Socket 2 turned up code 2-3-2 first, then 1-2-1 when triggered again. These were the only two codes it gave. Socket 6 gave me the heart-warming 1-1-1.

If I check the FAQ, I'm told:

1-2-1* Faulty signal to/from Air Mass Meter Wiring fault to or in AMM Various driving problems; fuel consumption

2-3-2* Fuel trim (lambda control) too lean or too rich at idle }If too rich: high fuel press., leaking injector } various driving problems

That's all very nice, but where the heck do I start? The other "various driving problems" that showed up during the trip to work today were 1) a throttle that would seem to cut power from time to time, like a clogged fuel line, and 2) a 'touchiness' to the gas pedal, causing sharp (almost high-performance-like) acceleration, rather than the smooth, steady surge of power I'm accustomed to. Oh yeah, and the gas mileage - If I squint really hard at the gas gauge, it seems I can almost see the needle moving downward.

I'll look around the brickboard archives to find the location of the ever-susceptible AMM, and check that this evening. But is there anything else to look for?

Thanks in advance for any input.








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    Re: Socket 2 fault codes 121 & 232 700 1989

    Start by de-oxidizing the AMM connector and re-connecting. That may be the source of the AMM signal anomaly. While you are at it, do the others under the hood as well, since oxidized connectors are a known problem with unexplained driveability symptoms.

    How old is the O2 sensor? Did any symptoms appear before all this happened?








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      Re: Socket 2 fault codes 121 & 232 700 1989

      I checked the connection on the AMM, and it looked good, almost no oxidation. I picked off what I did see, then reconnected.

      At idle, now floating somewhere around 1100-1200rpm on first startup, I tried disconnecting the AMM while the engine was running. The idle immediately dropped to a low, but steady 750-800rpm, with a slight hiccup from time to time. When I reconnected, the car instantly jumped back up to the 1200rpm range, then started inching closer towards 1500rpm. The idle's never been rock-solid anyway, but it was never this high, starting just about a week ago.

      You mentioned that I should clean the other connections, as well. Which other connections do you speak of, and where are they located? I don't know where the O2 sensor is, but I can guarantee that it hasn't been changed since I've owned it, in 4 years and 60k miles (car currently has 187k miles on the clock). I have never cleaned the throttle body.

      Major symptoms are high idle (above), touchiness to the throttle, bad gas mileage, and what feels like a fuel cut-off from time to time. Only the high idle was present before the check engine light came on, then the others started.

      Thanks again for any input.








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        Re: Socket 2 fault codes 121 & 232 700 1989

        Do what Foster says first. Also check the RPM sensor, on the 240 series it is on the bell housing held in by 1 10mm bolt. You'll need plenty of extensions on your ratchet wrench to get it out. It's a 50 buck part but once I replaced it my drivability problems disappeared along with the fault codes: 121 and 232. YMMV.

        Steve








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          How to locate & test... 700 1989

          With socket 2 fault codes 121 & 232, I'm trying to diagnose the problem that's causing high idle (avg 1500rpm), throttle touchiness, atrocious fuel mileage, and occasional power cut-outs, like I'm running out of gas on my 187k mile brick.

          I've checked the AMM, and it seems to be okay, dropping the idle to a rough 750rpm when disconnected while the car's running. Others have suggested I test other sensors, but I'm not sure where they are or how to test them. Like...

          Oxygen sensor? somewhere in the catlytic converter maybe? how to test?

          RPM sensor? on the bell housing...how to test?

          I will also pull the injectors to test and clean them, per the 700/900 FAQ. Anything to watch out for while doing this, besides the obvious open-air fuel concerns?

          Any other suspect areas? Thanks for any input.







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