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I broke the bleeder valve. Now what? 200 1988

posted by  someone claiming to be Kirk on  Mon Nov 27 03:46 CST 2000 [RELATED]

I got it all together to flush the brakes. The very first bleeder valve that I attempted to open, snapped in half. I can only imagine the next ones will do the same. The calipers are, I think, Girlings. They have three valves in each one.

So what do I do to replace/repair this? Before putting the wheel back on I did check for any leaks at what remains; none.

Any help, as always is much appreciated.

Kirk







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    Re: I broke the bleeder valve. Now what? 200 1988

    posted by  someone claiming to be Zee on  Tue Nov 28 22:53 CST 2000 [RELATED]

    One bleeder I had like this, i also broke off a screw extractor into it.

    Took it to a local machine shop. for $12, problem solved and they even put in a new valve.

    the idea about drilling out the old one on you own if worth a try. probably how the machine shop does it, anyhow...

    Consider buying a cobalt drill bit, BluMol brand(Home Depot) for drilling metal. I have been drilling thick body sheet metal all week with good results.







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    Re: I broke the bleeder valve. Now what? 200 1988

    posted by  someone claiming to be Tony H on  Mon Nov 27 06:28 CST 2000 [RELATED]

    In the past I have been able to drill out the bleeder BUT not so much that it drills the calipers' threads. Drill as wide as you can without hitting the threads, then with a small screwdriver you might be able to pry whats left inward. by drilling it, you've made it so thin that it should crush in. I've done this on other household 'mistake' and I have been able to bail myself out.

    good luck.







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    Re: I broke the bleeder valve. Now what? 200 1988

    posted by  someone claiming to be Steve Ringlee on  Mon Nov 27 05:27 CST 2000 [RELATED]

    It broke because it is corroded into the caliper. While some have had luck in using heat and a screw extractor to back out the severed screw, I haven't and have had to buy a rebuilt caliper. My best advice is to buy a quality reversing screw extractor (Alden makes good ones; don't use the twisted hardened Sears versions). Treat it liberally with PBlaster, then heat the screw, cool it off with an ice cube and try to extract.

    See also Gary DeFrancesco's trick of using an electrical welder to "burn off" corrosion in today's Brickboard digests: brilliant! He described it for exhaust studs, but I don't see why it would not work for non-ABS brakes.






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