Since I don't know your exact current status let's do the basics:

1) Timing belt there, but: got spark? Use a plug wire, rag or clamp and old plug, etc to see if spark jumps 1/16" or so. (avoid 50,000 Volts if possible) If you got spark...good, see below...if not get back with me.

2) Got fuel to the fuel rail/injectors? Partially disconnect and wrap with rags and have a friend crank car. You'll know really quick if fuel is there. Don't smoke cigars. Avoid a big engine fire.

Basics...if these things are OK, then we'll start the rocket science.

this sounds like a corroded fuse. (I think the 85's still used the bullet type fuses). Take out all the fuses, use fine sandpaper, clean the ends and the brackets they fit into, coat the ends of the fuses with silicon (lightly!!) and replace. I had an 82 and this became so common that I left off the fuse cover so I could rotate the fuel pump fuse when the car would not start.

Cynthia --

It could be a broken timing belt — the recommended (strongly recommended) replacement interval is every 50,000 miles.

Remove the oil cap and watch the camshaft as a helper turns the key 'n cranks the engine. If the belt's broken, the cam won't turn.

It could be a defective fuel pump relay — it's a very common problem, and easy to fix by resoldering the existing relay (OD relay, too). It costs $0, takes 15 minutes, and incurs very low risk. Of course, you must be able to solder.

It could also be an ignition problem, which would interfere with the spark. And this will inhibit the fuel pump relay from driving the fuel pump. Fo safety reasons, the relay requires ignition pulses before "pulling in," powering the pumps.

It could also be the big 25-amp fuse under the hood, adjacent to the hi-low relay. This fuse powers the FI system, and is well-known for corroding.

It could also be bad injector grounds.

It could be a failed air mass meter (AMM). Your car's not a turbo, right? (You can always try the "limp home mode.")

It could also be the result of the well-known and common crumbling engine harness.

It could also be a defective sensor inside the distributor.

And it could be many other flaky things.

It's less likely to be a bad fuel pump. While these do fail, they don't often fail.

Don Foster (near Cape Cod, MA)

Have you pulled the TB cover to inspect the belt? It might also be that the Fuel pump relay needs resoldering. Alot of people on the list seem to do that first when they have fuel pump problems. Have you cleaned the Battery leads? I would also inspect the fuses. Sitting for all that time you might have a little bit of corrosion on them. I would think that the work done on it would have effected it right away if a wire was crimped from the Blower motor install. I hope that helps.

I was just kidding about the 66 vw...I used to have one years ago. I quess you couldn't fit an acetolyne tank in that. What a classic. 1300cc engine with rear pop out vent windows. Now it is probably someones bicycle or something(it was totalled by a little old lady running a light.)