Opinions sought please;

I'm a Seattle driver, just bought a '89 760 GLT wagon (my 13th Volvo) and wonder about the cars gearing {AW auto trans} for driving in snow and ice etc with m/s radials versus studs.

WA State Patrol says "if chains or studs are required in the mountain passes, the "new technology" studless snows are not a substitute and I would be turned back trying to go up to the top of the pass".

Previous Volvos were 14" wheels, 760 is 15"......wondered if I needed studs for getting around Seattle in "winter weather".

I'm an experienced, conservative, 50 y/o driver.

im conserative as well and thats why i dont have problems driving studded snows down the road (denver to pueblo alot) when its dry. when the snow hits, im very glad to have 4 studded snows on my 240. dont know about your 14" vs. 15" situation though. i got the thinest width snow tire that would go on the rim and the things bite like crazy (i love it when i go around subaru's). there seemed to be very good previous comments though, due to your usually wet climate and only occasionally going to the mountains. as for the ruts in i5 being caused by studded snow tires....i dont think so...however, might have something to do with those 80,000 lb big rigs having to chain-up.

best of luck

c. tim

Steve, I've run my 240 and 740 Volvo's in Rochester NY for many years with 4 unstudded, Gislaved Frost snows and had no problems.

I tried a set of Nokian Hakkapellita 1 with studs on the 740, kinda wish I'd skipped the studs for the reasons Steve Ringlee mentions.

This year, I'm trying the Michelin Alpin on the S**b. I think they'll be fine in the snow and are supposed to offer excellent wet traction. I'm using steel wheels on the S**b, so I'll throw a set of those European cable chains for when things get really nasty.

There's an excellent discussion of the different needs for snow tires in different climates on the Nokian web site. They talk about snows for central Europe (mostly wet, some snow), being different than the Nordic tires (almost all snow). Worth a read & I'll post a link.

I found the article called "Winter Tire Safety" very enlightening

As you suggested Wray, I went to the Nokian site. The text below is from their research and no doubt is where the position taken by the Washington State Patrol and my Volvo professional contacts comes from.

"Studded tyre offers superior ice-grip"

Numerous studies have shown that even the best studless winter tyres do not grip an icy surface as well as studded tyres, which have about a 20-30% better braking grip on mirror ice than studless winter tyres. The braking distance on slick ice at a speed of 90 km/h is about 300 meters with studded tyres and 400 meters with studless winter tyres. The studded tyre's lateral grip on ice and packed snow surfaces is also superior to that of the studless winter tyre's. Since the majority of winter driving accidents occur as a result of the loss of lateral grip (see Appendix III), good lateral grip becomes the most critical safety feature.

I continue learning from others

steve m

Studs are bad news on any roads except those covered with snow or thick ice. Plus, they destroy roads (the ruts in I-5 come from all those studded cars.) Studs also exhibit very poor handling on dry or wet pavement.

So: buy yourself some good mud-snow all seasons with high wet traction ratings. Keep a set of cable chains in the trunk for the occasional skiing trip, and forget about studs.

There has been some controversy regarding studs and highway wear.

Many people were under the illusion that studs were illegal in most Canadian provinces - actually they are only illegal in Ontario.

Usage of studded tires is in the minority of drivers, the rutting on the highways is caused by displacement of asphalt particles(tar and fine pebbles) by the constant pressure exerted by the tires of vehicles, in particular the big rigs.

Check out any local road where heavy trucks are not alowed, then compare with a heavy truck route.

In wet weather it is better to shift over slightly to the right so that your tires are not riding in the "trough" of water on the road at highway speeds.

Happy winter in a Volvo

Gordon Hull

Just a thought - maybe someone else can answer this one.

Even thought the 760 came with 15" wheels - I believe that 14" steel wheels will fit (should still be the same bolt pattern.

What I have on my 245 is 25" GT alloy wheels for the summer - in winter I put on a set of 14" steel wheels with studded grips - Takes less than 20 minutes per wheel. No waiting at the tire shop in spring or fall.

Also - you could keep the 15" M+S wheels on when you are in Seattle (mostly rain) winter conditions, if you are heading east to the mountains - on go the studds.

I find I go through tires much less frquently this way.

Regards

Gordon Hull

On the rears, the 14" wheels will work fine. On the front however there is negative clearance for the ABS calipers.

Thank you Dave for the 760 14" stock wheel info

I bought 14" boneyard, virtually new, steel wheels @$20 each (4 yellow pages boneyard calls found prices from $45 to $75 each!) + two virtually new, 195/60 studs @$30 each, am winter ready and a happy camper.

For Seattleites lookin' for reliable, friendly help and service I've worked with owners Sal and Anthony At Northern European Auto Repair and

Northern European Auto Parts respectively + Aurora Auto Wrecking for over 20 years, through 14 Volvos and they're great.

Thanks for the input on the 14" stock wheels for my 760 wgn Dave.

I bought excellent 14" steel stock wheels @$20 each ("open market" Seattle prices were $45 to $75 each in 4 boneyard phone calls!), + virtually new, proper width for my 760 wgn, studs for $30 each. I'm winter ready and a happy camper!

By the way, For those in Seattle lookin' for honest, friendly, reliable help I've worked with Northern European Auto Wrecking in Ballard (Anthony)and Northern European Auto Repair (Sal), south end of the Aurora bridge + Aurora Auto Wrecking for over 20 years through 13 or 14 volvos.

Steve M