couple of questions for my 1990, 240 automatic:

a)my haynes manual tells me to use dexron II D or E automatic transmission fluid. I wen looking around, I see only DexronIII/MERCON and another one is type F. what atf do I use ?

b) I examined the transmission pan just to get ready before doing the job. saw the dipstick tube collar that I need to loosen tto start draining the fluid, saw the bolts for the pan, but I am seeing a bolt right on the bottom of the pan ( meaning flush with the pan bottom). Is this an additional drain plug ?? what size wrenches are the bolts on the dipstick tube collar ?

c) Is it the lower or upper metal pipe that goes to the radiator that I should disconnect to drain the transmission fluid while I ge6t the car running. I read the FAQ on how to flush the tranny fluid, they said the upper hose, but then that FAQ was for the 740 series.

Also I figured I would loosen the dipstick tube collar, drain the fluid, top off the transmission fluid, drive for a week or 2, and repeat this for a while before I actually remove the ppan and change the filter & gasket etc. Comments on this approach. saves me the removing the transmission line going to the radiator.

thanks

It's the upper hose comming out of the rad. I just did this a few weeks ago and it worked like a charm. Get a hose long enough so you can see the old stuff coming out as you put in the new. I used old milk jugs to drian and fill to make sure I was at same rate. At about 10 or 11 qts, clean fluid will come out the rad.

The only real difficulty in doing this job is removing the dipstick tube collar nut at the pan. Use plenty of PBlaster the day ahead of the job, and when you remove it use a backup wrench so you don't wreck the connection at the pan. This nut tends to corrode and is a PAIN to remove. If you can't get it off, then just don't bother cleaning the pan.

Do this once (cleaning the pan and strainer) then flush through the lines. After that, just drain the pan through the flush drain plug every 20k miles and flush through the cooler lines every two years or so.

do you what size wrenches I need for the dipstick tube collar?

also does drain plug have a washer that I have to replace (like the one on the oil drain pan) ?

thanks

Zakir, I just did this job last month.Dexron III is compatable(actually an upgrade) for Dexron II. First drain the fluid using that drain plug, then disconnect the pipe from the pan and more fluid will come out.Next remove the bolts from three sides of the pan and tilt forward to drain the rest of the fluid.Remove remaining bolts and clean pan, then remove the screen and its gasket.Install the new screen/gasket then the pan gasket bolt it back up put pipe back in add about four quarts trans. fluid. Start car check for leaks, drive around come back home , shift into all gears, put in park wait 2 minutes and then check fluid level again (car running of course)top up if necessary.

My car has 186 K miles on it and the fluid hadn't been changed since I bought it ( 89k miles).The fluid sure was brown and burnt but the screen actually looked really clean and there wasn't hardly any metal filings. Much smoother shifting now though!

I guess now Volvo recommends just draining and refilling the fluid, but where's the fun in that?

Good luck, Phil Stone '85 245GL 186k

By the way did you spray any adhesive to get the pan gasket to stay in place while tightenning up the pan bolts? If so, tell me what type did you use?

I persume we don't have to worry about torque on the bolts ?

thanks

The gasket kind of stays in place when you put the bolts in, it is rubberlike so it streches over the bolts to grip on. I didn't torque the bolts,I was careful not to overtighten.I put the corners on first, and after all bolts were on I tightened them alternating side to side/front to back.

Phil

thanks for the tips.