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91 240 rough running 200

91 240 sedan, auto trans. CEL 212. Past 3 weeks show rough running at idle, slow acceleration, not wanting to get much above 60 mph. Both fuel boost pumps test using the #4 fuse jumper to #6 fuse. Fuel pump relay pin 30 has 12 volts and all solder joints are good. MAF and throttle body cleaned 2 weeks ago and O2 sensor was replaced. Fuel pump relay is not engaging in key position II. Tried a known working relay with the same results. Any suggestions?








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91 240 rough running 200

Problem solved! I was speaking with a local mechanic. He asked what O2 sensor I installed and I told him it was a Bosch. He suggested I get an NGK O2 sensor and try that. I installed the new sensor and the problems have all gone away. Thanks for all the advice.








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91 240 rough running 200

Congrats on finally fixing your problem. Bosch is the Volvo OE sensor and known as good quality. It's always possible you got a faulty one. Switching from a Bosch O2 sensor to an NGK sensor is like switching spark plug brands and really shouldn't have made such a notable difference.

There's something different about your re-installing another sensor. I'm rather curious what it might have been.

o Did you clear the Check Engine light after installing the Bosch sensor? Did it come back and how soon did it come back? Right away or a few moments later?
o Did you or your mechanic try taking a voltmeter meter to the Bosch O2 sensor to see if the voltage was within spec? Did the O2 sensor voltage response get noted when the engine was run up to higher rpm? If the Bosch sensor was faulty it likely would have failed these simple checks.
o Which Bosch O2 sensor p/n did you install? New or used? Was it a generic one with pigtails or did it have the full connector cable? Did you happen to incorrectly apply dielectric grease or electrical paste to the connectors?
o Did anything else get replaced or done at the same time that you removed the Bosch sensor and installed the NGK sensor? Like find a cracked/loose vacuum hose? Disconnect/clean/reconnect any of the other electrical connectors again, especially the AMM? Clean/adjust the throttle body again or idle control valve? Pull the ignition wires and reseat them? Remove the spark plugs?

Just grasping at a few straws there in case it triggers a thought with you.


--
Dave -still with 940's, prev 740/240/140/120 You'd think I'd have learned by now








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91 240 rough running 200

Hi,

We need more history on the car’s mileage and overall maintenance condition.
It doesn’t cost to create a low profile of minimal information.
A simple thing as only a state helps place the environmental conditions around the car it is subjected to.
I don’t think “claiming to be” is quite as effective for a diagnosis from those with experience on here for many years.

The Brickboard only communication is via the site, to let you know you had a response back.
Your password makes a profile available only to you and what you can edit when logged in on your account.
If you poke around you will see what I mean.

So you give up nothing when comparing it in relation to getting spamming from worse media sites.
BB is telling more along a preventative maintenance protocol that can help prevent some symptoms that you are having from occurring.

You need to tell us if it’s also hard to get started and just how much is of rough idle is happening.
Right off the top I’m thinking along the lines of a slack timing belt that may have jumped a tooth or simply bad spark plug gaps.
A misfire is quickly covered up by the self tuning system but when too many happens it gets to be a problem.
A code is not a sure shot but more like a paint ball means of a direction to observe. It won’t stop a chain reaction as its purpose or concerns are only with an emissions error. It doesn’t patch or fix.

When you say it struggles up in acceleration and fails to want to pass sixty mph you might have a collapsed muffler or catalytic converter.
The engine is having trouble getting air through the engine in a case like that. So a timing belt might be over due.
When coupling up things together the ignition system can be a point of the spear to a rotten exhaust system.
Bad ignition maintenance or the timing belt is an accumulative progression concern that nibbles away at reliability.

Spraying the AMM is not a “mechanic in a can” as I hate to inform you to this early in the game.
In fact on the early thin wire types the spray did more harm than they ever proved in doing an improvement.
When an AMM goes bad they are bad and it will let you definitely know.

BB is correct about corrosion and previous owners doing a tweak.
Like I said, some plausible history on the car is prudent communication.
With plausible you are halfway to causable. 😊

Be a good ole time citizen band radio operator and make up a good personable “HANDLE.”


I know the Brickboard hasn’t been up to par lately.
Who ever is running the site should be doing the same to the Brickboard community.

This guessing, from outsiders, about bandwidth costs is one big issue that has been building for way too long from TV to the internet.

The advertising gig is taking more and more of it for practically free. IMHO it needs a knot jerked in its tail!
Being a subscriber eventually has its limitations of what is expected from any services free or paid for.
Cannot use that “free” word anymore …. it’s obsolete or going extinct.


The Popular Science magazine folded up from the lack of good journalism and this web site will do the same without its writers and readers being both the same people.

Phil








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91 240 rough running 200

Hi Russ,

Does the 2-1-2 code return after you clear it?
Did you install the O2 sensor, and was it a direct fit or a universal where you
have a chance to miswire it?
If the code returns look carefully at the O2 sensor connector.
Perhaps the harness connector has loose or damaged pins?
Clean with Isopropyl alcohol 90% blow out with air lube with Penetrox-A.
Get rid of the 2-1-2 code.

Connectors and fuse and lamp sockets need periodic TLC.
Shine up and lube your fuel pump fuses and connections with a little conductive grease or even better Penetrox-A.
Do all of your fuse sockets, since corroded 240 fuse sockets are known troublemakers. Don't forget to service the fuses at the battery.

Check that the pins in the fuel relay socket are tight with a 1/4" male spade
lug. You can use Penetrox-A directly into the female fuel relay socket pins
to deter corrosion and improve conductivity.

See if the AMM heated wire is dirty and needs AMM cleaner (no Carb cleaner!), and service it's connector. Use Penetrox-A paste right into the female EFI socket pins.

Make sure there's no air leak between the AMM and throttle body

Bill








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91 240 rough running 200

update: Fuel pump relay now working.








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91 240 rough running 200 1991

A new or known good and working white box fuel injection relay?

Any improvement?

Pleeeeeze lettuce know.

Weee are here to halps you.

See here:
https://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/EngineOBDCodes.htm

Would you have that silly EGR? Tested the throttle position switch? These can start to fail before the Bosch engine control OBD-1 reports on these.

You tested both the OBD six (fuel injection & emmisions) and OBD 2 (ignition and EGR control)? Repeat the test.

OMG, got logged in and am replying to a post to halps.

Reporting live from Cheyenne, WY. Good day. I say good day!

Wilford Brimley's Diabeetus Egg Nawg Boyeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee .... and his 1991 Volvo 240 ... in Cheyenne, WY, in wet snow.

Moar Metformin. By the bucket-full.

Ready to donate moar if the owld brickboard is back into fine fettle. As Uncle Art says, on the rise!!!!

Joyous to post here. Sorry to go on.

--
Give your brickboard.com a big thumbs up! Way up! - Roger Ebert & Gene Siskel





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