Hiya MacDuff,

What link are you talking about in the Hikari?

I remove the metal gizmo that surrounds the halogen lamp filament section
as it is as useful as an appendix. I forget what they call it, maybe a "baffle".
It just pulls straight out and you can press it in again to impress your local pals in the Gestapo if they force you at gunpoint.

Be advised that the spec for LED's vary widely from the truth. Many LED peddlers
are bigger liars than the ones claiming the 2020 election was stolen.

When you finally get your LEDs, measure the current draw high and low beams
and note the LEDs are current limiting to control power input. They start a little high and drift lower after a minute or so to a stable reading usually around 2 amps. Measure in the car with the engine running. Then you know for sure how many watts they run at. Amps X Volts = Watts

The newer LEDs have higher efficiency and produce more light for the same power,
that is why it's good to get the newer models, except the brand new models have a
prohibited up-charge until the vendors can't peddle them to anyone and the price drops maybe after the newer model appears.

Buying from Walmart has the advantage that they have an excellent returns policy, so does Amazon. If you buy from a Chinese merchant you can get hosed,
ask me how I know.

It sounds like they have too much Molybdenum in the water out there, likely
contaminating your buttermilk. Maybe that's whats wrong?

Cheers, Bill