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Throwing a wrench into the works, but something to consider.
The Cross Country is a good candidate for a projector retrofit. Quite a bit more involved, as the lens needs to come off (heat gun to soften adhesive), but it's not complicated. I've performed this retrofit, and have lived to tell about it.
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Hi McDuff,
Now you're a believer in LED headlights.
To be objective in comparing LED headlights you need some info not provided
by the uncooperative LED merchants. They should tell you a lot of stuff in the specs, but instead give you a pile of vague rubbish such as the color 6000K
and its for "12 volt" systems.
The LEDs run at 14 volts and then the next important item is how much power are they.
See this post where I asked for some simple cooperation to review the auxito.
https://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1692099/led_review_questioned.html
How much current do your Auxito LEDs draw after 2 minutes on and at what system voltage for high and low beams?
Nobody's interested in being objective.
Today I see that Amazon brand Hikari 2022 has dropped down in price from last year.
Alan might order that set for $27 or whatever it is now instead of $50 last year. It's a high quality package.
Hikari has a new one of interest, "The punisher" for about $60 claiming more power and the latest LEDs that are more efficient and they say 100,000 hours life! So you can bet that it is a current limiting device to control heat.
I'll find out later if Hikari's old advertising upgrade policy is any good or so
much hot air.
How about it ? Are you able to measure current and voltage for your headlights?
to get a clue about what power they are?
Happy motoring, Bill
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Ahoy McDuff,
Thanks for reminding me to check new LED offerings.
That new Punisher I referred to is made by Luxster. It's pricey.
I couldn't resist ordering a set last light with their claim of 70 watts per lamp,
100,000 hrs service life and dual ball bearing fan.
I got the H4 9003 used in the e-code headlights.
Unlike some people, I don't believe any claims for Lumens output from from
enthusiastic LED sales liars. I'll compare to what I have and let you know.
The first thing I'll do is check the current draw on high and low beams and hope to find about 5 Amps @ 13.8 V
I'm prepared for creative LED salesmanship though, where they might think its OK
to total the low and high beam readings to come up with 5 amps or 70 watts per lamp. Note the merchants realize there's a dual beam headlight, but they don't
specify power and lumens for high and low beams as you found with the reputable
halogen lamp manufacturers.
Hopefully more RWD guys will try LED's and help find the best offerings.
Cheers, Bill
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Ahoy Scrooge MacDuff!
Well blow me down, you finally slit open the mattress and got a set of LED headlights! You probably could have funded that purchase with money found
under the seats of your car. :-)
Please explain which Auxito 9004 you got. Link to ad?
How much current does each LED draw, HI and Low beam, and @ what voltage?
Did you remove that stupid contraption/baffle that went around the old
crappy halogen lamp?
I tried sending you email to your gmail and nobody responds.
Google is censoring your mail now.
Do you have a valid email for when Brickboard crashes.
Cheers, Bill
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This is the curent Auxito Q16 series 9004 LED bulb listing:
https://www.auxito.com/products/9004-led-bulbs
Listed as 10,000 lumens per bulb (20,000 per pair and that should be high beam), 6,000K cool white light, 50 watts (again 100W per pair and that should be average low/high beam). That's over 3 times the brightness using the same kind of wattage as the ultra-bright Philips X-tremeVision halogens and 4-5 times the brightness that many of us are likely driving around with in our standard halogens that put out less light as they age. Yeah, yeah, Bill, I know you don't trust manufacturers specs when it comes to LEDS, but even if it's 3/4 the advertised lumens, it's well worth the upgrade.
Check out the favourable reviews on their website, including a 240 owner.
These are listed as CANBUS compatible. In some applications a CANBUS bulb may flicker or cause radio static and need a CANBUS adapter, but in my 940s there's no hint of a flicker or static. They may or may not ocasionally upset the bulb out sensor. If that becomes a problem then remove the bulb sensor and carefully wrap a 16 gauge solid copper wire jumper between the left and right headlight pins (56bL and 56bR) to disable the headlight sensor circuit then re-insert the bulb sensor in the relay tray.
Note that there was a previous Auxito 9004 model with offset rows of SMDs, that's still available in their supply chain. The Q16 has two rows of SMDs, exactly side by side, so be sure to look for that in the ad pics to know it's a Q16 bulb. The beam pattern of the Q16 bulb is apparently better than the previous design. They previous ones were a bit less bright at 7,500 lumens and a slightly harsher 6,500K cold white. Also, compared to other brands, the bulb housing is exactly the same as the halogens, so fitment is not an issue, plus the cooling fan is internal at the front and not attached at the back, so our huge reflector housings should be more than adeqaute for allowing good cooling and not needing to run the fan on max all the time or turn down the power and brightness to keep the internal temperature within range.
As I've mentioned, the Q16 beam pattern is reasonably close to that produced by a 9004 halogen, with a reasonably good horizontal cutoff definition, but not as well defined as a halogen. The hot spot is a little higher than it should be, so the headlights will need to be aimed a little lower if you don't want to get flashed at (soon as I did that I've had less flashes at me). Note that the DOT aiming spec does not call for a dipped beam angle at the height of our headlights, but if you dip it like the DOT specs for a slightly higher placed headlight then you'll get flashed at a lot less often and still have tons of visibility distance down the road (ref. https://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/aim/aim.htm).
Note that there's a minimal vertical dark line created by the wafer, which some oncoming motorists may mistakenly assume is four bulbs coming at them, so you may get flashed that your high beam is on even if they aren't blinded. Contrary to some of your previous comments, the Q16 bulbs are a fixed housing and not rotatable (there's no need) and there's no baffle in the 740/940 standard North American headlights that can be removed, but I don't know about the 240s.
Note that you have to buy it from the Auxito.com North American distributor website to get their 2 year warranty. There's currently a 10% discount code and free worldwide shipping. If you buy it through any of their authorized (or unauthorized) resellers then they provide whatever shipping and warranty they want.
Note that you can get the exact same bulbs direct from China from their Auxito webstore on Aliexpress for less than half the Auxito.com price, with free shipping and a no hassle, 90 day warranty (free return shipping label). For those kind of savings, that's where I've bought both of my sets and they arrived promptly with no problems, now 4 months in use. If you buy them from other sellers on Aliexpress (or places like eBay or Walmart.com) then you're taking a much bigger chance.
The Auxito bulbs come very nicely packaged in a proper foam lined box along with a pair of white cotton gloves for handling and a reasonably decent instruction sheet, but no additional specs other than what's on their website.
--
Dave -still with 940's, prev 740/240/140/120 You'd think I'd have learned by now
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Hi Dave,
Please stop pontificating about LED headlights with a sampling of one, and reading a bunch of BS ads.
Here's what to do as a community service: Measure the current draw at the high and low beam fuses.
Easy to do at the fuses 17, 18, 19, 20 in the 940. Just remove the ashtray and:
1 Measure Voltage drop across the top of the ATC fuses and interpolate the current with the chart I posted before
2 Get the ATC fuse current tester for short money at Harbor Freight.
I posted a review at Brickboard
3 Pull the fuse and measure current with a VOM or analog ammeter.
It's tricky with VOM probes. Make a plug out of a dead ATC fuse with jumpers to use your VOM or hook up to an analog ammeter.
I'll send you pictures, it's easy to do with a dremel tool and a solder iron.
The above methods to measure current in a fused circuit come in handy a lot of different ways. For instance you can measure current flow in fuse 11 The in tank fuel pump, and Fuse 1 the fuel system including both pumps and some other stuff. A base line reading is good to know. Suddenly some guys were blowing Fuse 1 (Fuel) that's baseline 10.5 Amps and blowing 25 Amp fuses.
One Bozo on here put a 30 amp fuse then was surprised that his fuel relay socket was melted. Unfortunately he couldn't take a hint and measure current flow at fuse 11 or Fuse 1.
It would have been nice to verify that the problem was loose arcing fuel relay socket pins. Or do fuel pumps draw more current before they crap out?
Maybe failing fuel pumps give a hint with the ammeter? eh?
Pardon me for the digression.
You are likely to find out how deceptive the LED merchants are as follows:
They say 100 watts per set
You would think that's 50 watts per lamp, eh?
Guess again, these are dual beam headlights
My guess is low beam = 25 Watts max High beam = 25 Watts max
The salesmen add that all up and claim 100 watts
Where do they say the power for low beam and high beam per LED?
I don't think Sylvania or Phillips would be so rude and crude with specs.
FYI some dual beam lamps draw more current in high than low beam.
Some LEDs draw the same current high and low.
The newest generation of LEDs have more luminous flux per watt!
Do the salesmen tell you any details found in a for real Data Sheet?
Do you have the high performance chips, more light and less current?
NO WAY They hide the important details.
Sales BS does not make it possible to make an objective review of LEDS!
It was easy to be objective with 1157 brake lights and using an ammeter & light meter to compare several samples.
I hope that MacDuff will come back with some objective review of the Auxito LEDs based on tests with an ammeter, voltmeter and light meter, instead of some BS claims by LED merchants and rave reviews by other salesmen shills on-line.
Cheers, Bill
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Hi Bill,
My apologies for some of that wording and letting some personal frustrations creep into the end of the product review I did. Some of that should have been said offline. Too bad I can't edit that to be no more than a review. That's one of the things I've always disliked about the Brickboard, same as the first draft now being immediately emailed to the OP, not as before where it's the final version that got sent, which often has more information that occurs to you after seeing your initial reply, along with all the typo corrections.
You've been asking me to post something about my Auxito LED headlight experience for a while now and after four months of real world experience with two cars and two drivers under varying conditions, so I finally did.
I'm not going to recommend everyone switch to LEDs as they're not perfect and well beyond being street legal for brightness, or even recommend the Auxito Q16s over any other brand as I admittedly haven't tried them. I am very satisfied with the choice I made for trying the Q16s as a cheap $30 experiment after first doing my due diligence based on whatever information was available at the time, including independent casual reviews of theirs and other halogen headlight replacements. The Auxito SMD layout and design as well as the bulb fitment are in my opinion suitable for our jumbo sized reflectors, which were specifically designed for Volvo to use in North America with Ford's crappy common 9004 halogen bulb, just as Kitty says (same Ford who later bought Volvo). Some of the common beam pattern issues that I've seen mentioned about LEDs being used in a halogen reflector seem to be avoided or at least minimized in this Q16 bulb.
I encourage you to try a pair of Q16s and do your own analysis.
Cheers -Dave
--
Dave -still with 940's, prev 740/240/140/120 You'd think I'd have learned by now w
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Hi Dave,
I looked at the link and it was $70. I'm still hoping someone can measure
the actual current draw hi and low beams.
I'm using the Amazon brand "Hikari 2022" 32 watt set, which is OK for now.
Selling at Amazon now for $50. They claim to have special offers for upgrade to newer models after a year. I'll find out soon.
With time the newer chips offer more light per watt, but the newest have
premium prices.
Amarin had a nice post a few years ago with his comments about the different
generations of LEDs. I wonder if he's OK, since I haven't seen him here for a long time.
Did you say you didn't have that goofy steel baffle around the halogen lamp?
I had it in my original headlights in the 850 and 940 and removed them.
They just pull straight out, and press back in if you like less light.
You need to remove the lens to access.
Cheers, Bill
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So the 940 and 850 headlamp assemblies use the 9004 bulb?
And removing what I guess is the in-headlamp assembly thingy that serves as some sort of obscuring cap, when 9004 bulb already has one makes it project better, G.G. and Mr. Stevens?
What bulbs do your models of Volvo 940 and 850 use?
Lighting was so much better up to 1986. The (my oft mentioned fave model) 164 with the lower driving / god lamps where the grills over the large horn are also help.
I'm unsure how these newer models of Hikari and Auxito help. Unsure if old or out of date. The view is revolutionary after years of the stupid halogen bulb BS and how quickly these things go dim. Sort of like GE sealed beams in the dual round or dual square or single big round, like on 1976 to 1981 or so 242 DL (luvs Volvo coupes best of all) are so much better, thank get the Hello or the other brand, Bosch and OMDog. I mean dawg. And then these offending 9004 plastibox 9004 housings the corrupt and stupid US DOT required if imported into this county.
So the Auxito, and I'll try the Hikari 9004 as I have two other US market 1986+ 240s, and restored the crappy US Dotty 9004 plasti-housings on those as the adhesive sealing and holding together the lens and reflector body fail (sometimes same happen on your 940s and 850s, yet you have glass lenses more so if newer), the LED is the solution. That thread on turbobricks promotes the halogen bulb myth:
https://turbobricks.com/index.php?threads/9004-led-bulb-recommendations-for-1986-us-dot-240-headlamps-please.371571/
And elsewhere in the form, a result of my bad, misplaced belief.
I still have Waggonmeisters wire harness upgrade with the 100-watt bulbs, yet did not install it. Would moar B+ closer to the LED bulb halps using Dave's harness. The bulb then are museum pieces, I guess.
So please forgive me for not listening when I ask like two or moar years ago. I'm converted, and allslow got LED tail light bulbs for brake, turn, high center third, running, position, park lamps.
Back to naps.
--
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From personal and recent experience in my 940s with similarly large rectangular halogen reflectors, if you're going to switch to LED headlamps then the Auxito brand Q16 9004 LEDs should be considered. They're available online from their US distributor with a full two year guarantee and as well direct from China from their two online stores on Aliexpress for considerably less money with only a 30 day guarantee. There are simply no LED 9004s that are anywhere near street legal in North America. The DOT limit is 3000 lumens per bulb. The Q16s are advertised as 10,000 lumens, which is presumably per pair. I would absolutely not recommend going higher than this. For oncoming traffic they're a mildy harsh cool white (at 6,000K) and distractingly bright in our huge rectangular halogen headlight reflectors. Anything more than that should be considered blindingly bright.
According to their own advertising pictures and in my own headlight testing against a vertical wall, the Q16s are probably about as close as you're going to get to a 9004 halogen for a decent horizontal cutoff beam pattern. In my own testing, the hotspots are a little higher than the horizontal cutoff line, which they shouldn't be, so you will need to aim them a little lower than the spec to not be blinding oncoming traffic and being constantly blinked at.
Please spend a few minutes looking up how to properly align your headlamps on the Daniel Stern website.
https://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/aim/aim.html
Daniel is a recognized automotive lighting expert and a former Volvo 240 aficionado who used to post here on the Brickboard. Be very careful with your plastic headlamp adjuster screws. They may need advance lubrication and working them back and forth carefully to keep them from breaking when trying to start turning them for adjustment.
Also, please be warned that your bulb out sensor may or may not be happy with LED headlamps. LED headlamps ramp their voltage draw up and down and have an internal fan to control maximum temperature. If this happens in an unbalanced manner left and right then it may well trigger the bulb out sensor. In one of my 940's (uses the same BIS) it has a tendency to do that, in the other so far no problem. One possible bypass is to open up the bulb sensor relay and bridge the left and right headlight outputs with a soldered jumper wire, effectively disabling the circuit.
Having said all this, you will be amazingly impressed with the light output of your 240 LED headlights, just be prepared to have people flash their lights at you from now on.
--
Dave -still with 940's, prev 740/240/140/120 You'd think I'd have learned by now
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I'd like eCodes like I'd like ot perform a brake service, in Toilet-Rado, the NAZI front range. here in Longmont. Neoliberal toilet Boulder is worse.
Anyhoo, I found the Auxito, and the design appears to jabve the obsuiringt cap l,ike on a halogen bulb built in, here.
I guess you speak of these, Dave:
AUXITO 9004 LED Headlight Bulb 100W 20000LM 6000K White
https://www.auxito.com/collections/auxito-q16-series-led-headlight-bulbs-2022-upgraded-design/products/9004-led-bulbs
Aldo,
9004 LED Headlight Bulb 15000LM 6500K White Wireless Design
(Slightly less bright, yet blue-er?)
https://www.auxito.com/products/9004-led-headlight-bulb-12000lm
At the Mart du Wal:, yet only ship to home. not to store (I have no address here).
AUXITO 9004 HB1 LED Headlight Bulbs, 100W 20000LM, 600% Brightness, 6000K Cool White, 9004 headlight bulbs, Pack of 2
https://www.auxito.com/collections/auxito-q16-series-led-headlight-bulbs-2022-upgraded-design/products/9004-led-bulbs
B.B., found the Hikari 9004 in the Amazon search sport:
https://www.amazon.com/s?k=Hikari+9004
The Hikari models appear not to have the halogen bulb link obscuring cap for the stupiud, crappy, US DOT reflector 9004 housings. Terrible crappy US DOT like terrible, crappy US everything.
USPS General Delivery to the nearby USPS then. How I got the pesticide concentrate so I can continue spraying the fleas coming out of the floor, drywall (walls, ceiling), furniture. DoD / CIA garbage in ever motel, gas station, Walmart, and you name it. Launch a flea vector pandemic, they will. In every state, every city, every building.
Weee.
Thank you.
--
Give your brickboard.com a big thumbs up! Way up! - Roger Ebert & Gene Siskel
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Hiya MacDuff,
What link are you talking about in the Hikari?
I remove the metal gizmo that surrounds the halogen lamp filament section
as it is as useful as an appendix. I forget what they call it, maybe a "baffle".
It just pulls straight out and you can press it in again to impress your local pals in the Gestapo if they force you at gunpoint.
Be advised that the spec for LED's vary widely from the truth. Many LED peddlers
are bigger liars than the ones claiming the 2020 election was stolen.
When you finally get your LEDs, measure the current draw high and low beams
and note the LEDs are current limiting to control power input. They start a little high and drift lower after a minute or so to a stable reading usually around 2 amps. Measure in the car with the engine running. Then you know for sure how many watts they run at. Amps X Volts = Watts
The newer LEDs have higher efficiency and produce more light for the same power,
that is why it's good to get the newer models, except the brand new models have a
prohibited up-charge until the vendors can't peddle them to anyone and the price drops maybe after the newer model appears.
Buying from Walmart has the advantage that they have an excellent returns policy, so does Amazon. If you buy from a Chinese merchant you can get hosed,
ask me how I know.
It sounds like they have too much Molybdenum in the water out there, likely
contaminating your buttermilk. Maybe that's whats wrong?
Cheers, Bill
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Hikari 9004 / HB1:
https://hikari-led.com/bulbs/9004-hb1.html
With link to buy on Amazon.
Auxito that Dave mentions at Walmart:
https://www.walmart.com/ip/AUXITO-9004-HB1-LED-Headlight-Bulbs-100W-20000LM-600-Brightness-6000K-Cool-White-9004-headlight-bulbs-Pack-of-2/1627911363
Turbobricks recommends against LED in 240 and other Volvo RWD that uses the crappy US crappy DOT crappy Ford crappy 9004 housings. After another round of the:
https://www.sylvania-automotive.com/sylvania-9004-silverstar-ultra-halogen-headlight-bulb-1-pack/9004SU.BP.html
... bought last year in the toilet Whatcom County, WA in NAZI WA-state. Spokane County is particularly bad. The toilet police of Spokane and Spokane County would follow me around when when go for a walk or drive. No criminal record here. Yet you should see the deepfake videos I've seen of me. Terrible. Now the DoD pays out so much more to ensure compliance by the private citizen NAZI.
Well-practiced by the voters of hope and change, make Murika crap some moar orange with his Big Mac endused dumps, and senile pampers and so on. A term used is the Deep State yet orange dumpo made is deeper:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zersetzung
That go dim after some hundreds of hours of use as they have again now. Garbage. All halogen bulbs do so. Yet halogen was originally created to maintain the filament and to prevent loss of the filament material using noble gas in the envelope.
So LED is a better and maybe more reliable lighting method. Tungsten lamps of any sort are a pass save for that warm and homey nostalgia if you need it.
I'm also tired of being blinded by on coming cars and AmriKKKan NAZIs that have LED bulbs far brighter or poorly made in old and new cars. The AmeriKKKan NAZI are so entitled and so casual about it. The current housing host praises Jeebus daily. Kristain NAZIs. Just like Hitler in exterminating Jews to bring about the return of Jeebus as in the new testament booble revelation. There is a Bobo here that wears a star of David that is a NAZI at the local brewery whose husband is a former US General. Ooop, I'm broaching Nietzsche's nihilism as they believe in nothing other than material gains doing terrible crap to people funded by the US DoD. There is a next door Dennis here in western toilet Longmont CO, the menace, I call him ferret face and worse, with the Guantanamo subwoofer drone emanating from his residence. As with all prior Furnished Finder residences, the host holds the door wide open so they can populate walls, floors, and furniture with more biting insects. Praise be to AmeriKKKan nazi Jeeebus.
Your 940 uses 9004 bulbs? The metal baffle thing serves like an obscuring cap on a halogen 9004 bulb. Yes, remove it with your LEDs so you have both reflector and project style.
I'll get one or the other. The headlamps on kittys grey Volvo 240 are already low after adjusting them for height and distance using the Sylvannia 9004 halogen garbage.
Anyhoo, back to my fake NAZI job as I'm told so casually from St. Louis (Nick's Pub), to Whatcom County (Fringe Brewing), and here in toilet Longmont (name your craft brewery: Grossen Bart Brewery, Oskar Blues Brewery Taproom, Pumphouse Brewery [awful], Left Hand Brewing Company, and so forth, the message is AmeriKKKan Nazis love craft brew and nice weather.).
Avoid small town Montana. Bobo said to go there.
Molybdenum in the water out here? Yes, WHO and EPA make mention, from all the ever bleeding mines out here. Water flows downhill in purple mountains majesty like everywhere.
--
Give your brickboard.com a big thumbs up! Way up! - Roger Ebert & Gene Siskel
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What Ho MacDuff,
I see a lot of junk at ebay and some wild prices for some.
I'd give Amazon's Hikari 9004 a shot, introduced 2023
Hikari 2023 20000LM 9004 HB1 Dual Beam LED Bulbs, Fog Light, 45W Upgraded Core-9 LED, High Lumens LED Kit, 6000k Cool White, IP68 Waterproof, Halogen Upgrade Replacement
Note the new Hikari specs at Amazon are flimsier than ever, not that LED specs were ever anything to write home about from the devious vendors.
Carefully adjust your headlights to remain a model citizen.
Cheers, Bill
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Kitty not a model citizen! Sacrilege I say…. :)
Time to upgrade those crappy 240 headlights! Our eyes aren’t getting any younger.
Best to you both!
--
Will I buy another Volvo??? We'll see....
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