No Sunroof, non-turbo, no rust, no dents, interior will clean up nicely.

One of my biggest concerns is the AC. The compressor comes on quickly and the fan engages. It is hard to tell if it is cooled air with the outside temps around 50 degrees. The heater works well and quickly cools when AC is engaged. The compressor will spin and stop and spin and stop. What does that mean?

Also the rear main appears to be leaking. No way am I doing that so that's at least $600 to the guy in the shop. The Horn isn't working but I don't know why. I did check the number 15 fuse. Speedo and odometer not working.

I have had 1994 models for many years. Any specific concerns on the 1995? I noticed the absence of the accessible fuel pump. The headlites and grill are a little different, too.

This is not one of those garage-kept beauties for 5 to 8 thousand. It looks like a good foundation for a survivor for under $2000 even with the rear main expense.

Thanks for your thoughts on this
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89 240 wagon, 94 940, 300K, 94 940, 141K

The in-tank fuel pump seems to only fit the 95 models and is quite pricey. Looking ahead, any other options?
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89 240 wagon, 94 940, 300K, 94 940, 141K

For the '95 940 with Bosch FI, the in-tank pump is the main pump and not comparable to the previous and cheaper in-tank pre-pumps. Bosch OE replacements can be had for under $100 USD if you shop around, so not overly pricey compared to fuel pumps in general and nowhere near what Volvo would have charged for one with their name on it. You'd pay more to replace an in-line and in-tank pump in the previous Bosch systems. You can get other brands of pumps for as little as $25 that will likely work just fine, just no assurance they'll last as long as the Bosch. Over half the value of the job to change the pump is getting the fuel pickup assembly out and back in to the tank. Without a few tips and a bit of practice you can waste a lot of time doing this job, with sedans being significantly more awkward than wagons to do. See the FAQ and search old posts here for more details.
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Dave -still with 940's, prev 740/240/140/120 You'd think I'd have learned by now

Hi,

Congrats on your "new" 940.

You can try Rear main seal (RMS) treatment.
It worked on my 850.
One local mechanic says to put a capful maximum of brake fluid in the motor oil
and that will swell old seals.

Before messing with the clockspring for your horn, check the bullet connectors (4) at the horn connectors. They had rotted out in my 940.
Get the repair connectors with pigtails from www.davebarton.com

Good luck, Bill

If the compressor kicks in and out then the charge may be low. If you can catch a period where the compressor isn't running you can pull the connector off the low pressure switch on the receiver/drier and check for continuity across the pressostat terminals or put a jumper wire into the connector to see if the compressor now kicks in.

If the rear main seal is leaking and you want to try deferring replacement then consider switching to a high mileage oil which contain seal conditioners. Seal conditioners soften and pucker old seals a bit and if they're not leaking too badly the leaking may stop. You can also add your own seal conditioners.

The headlight assembly and grill didn't change for '95. If yours is different then someone seemingly converted the headlights and grill to European e-code headlamps -I'm envious. These weren't available in the North American market, either US or Canada.

Your '95 940 B230FD NA will be LH 2.4 with a single main in-tank pump, as will a '95 940 B230FT turbo. 1994 was a changeover year. A '94 940 B230FT turbo or B230FD NA with LH 2.4 should be like the older LH 2.4 systems with an in-tank pre-pump and main pump underneath the car. A '94 940 NA with Regina will have a different single in-tank pump.

Both my '95 940s (NA and turbo) are Canadian market cars. There should be few differences between the Canadian and US market 940s other than bilingual labels, the speedometer/odometer in kilometres and full-time DRL (cannot turn the park lights off when the ignition is ON in KPII). Canadian 940s got the full Nordic/winter package including an ambient temp gauge with frost warning light, heated outside L/R mirrors, and heated front seats, which many of the US models also got. It varied during final 940 production whether the base and turbo 940 models came with alloys, sunroof, leather and roof rails as standard options when they arrived at the dealership. I've seen all sorts of exceptions to standard trim in the late 940s.

If the horn doesn't work and fuse 15 is verified as okay and if the wipers also work then the problem is likely at the steering wheel. If neither horn button works while turning the steering wheel back and forth then it's possibly a worn contact button in the back of the steering wheel or a very grungy contact ring on the SRS contact reel (clockspring) at the top of the steering column. If you find yourself a wiring diagram you'll see the horns get their power from the wiper switch connector and their ground back up through the contact reel to the horn buttons and thence to the steering column as chassis ground. Although it's possible both horn buttons are faulty, normally only one wouldn't work -see the FAQ for info on the horn buttons. Otherwise the next step would be removing the air bag and steering wheel to get at the horn contact to see what's going on there.

See the FAQ here for steering wheel removal procedures.

*** Be absolutely sure to first disconnect the battery to disable the SRS controller (wait 1-2 minutes to fully discharge) before removing the air bag or disconnecting/reconnecting ANY orange connectors and NEVER ever probe with a meter into an orange SRS connector ***.

Removal of the steering wheel and clockspring requires special procedures to straighten the wheels, remove the steering column nut and then lock the clockspring before removing the steering wheel by advancing the screw into a notched tab and have both the clockspring and steering column in their neutral positions for re-installation. NB. turning the steering wheel with the clockspring locked can easily break the plastic clockspring, which are no longer available from Volvo, so don't forget to unlock it before tightening the steering nut. Also, if the clockspring is not installed in its neutral position (mid-point of the spring wind) with the wheels straight ahead then it may soon break during hard steering.
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Dave -still with 940's, prev 740/240/140/120 You'd think I'd have learned by now