we went a bit of topic discussing fluids and beleeding practices.

i think you are spot on you still have some air in the system. the correct procedure will give you a specified pattern for bleeding but basically you just need to keep on bleeding until you get that bubble out. If you have air in the lines your pedal will feel mushy , not hard. if the air is affecting one front wheel that can put you in the ditch.

I once brake a bleeder off but it was my only car to use to go get parts. fine I said Ill just plug the line and it can have 3 braking wheels and then I can go buy parts.. wow I sure was surprised, If I hit the brakes the car would steer itself quite hard towards the ditch, dont do that !


within the system usually near the firewall there is a brass block with a wire to it, that thing contains a switch and it has a small piston within it. if brake fluid is lost to one circuit I think it closes off the other circuit and for sure it activates a warning light. sometimes if you go and take the system apart you can have a situation where you need to reset the thing to the middle. I forget if that is done hydraulically , probably.. if you get stuck on that there is going to be a procedure to reset it. the correct bleeding sequence might assure it is reset but you can bleed any wheel at any time if the system is full without much of an issue. the rule of thumb is furthest wheel first but if you get mixed up and just keep bleeding I think it will be ok in the end.

id normally go around a few times giviing each maybe 3 pumps as you near the end and watch the reservoir level.

I'd say buy another bottle of fresh brake fluid, ,keep going, don't ever let the master cyl run dry or you have to start over.
check the right sequence but most importantly just keep bleeding that bubble will come out and then you will know as they will work properly. with even a small slug of air you will get a mushy pedal,, you just aren't quite finished with the bleeding, that's all.