You'd expect for any kind of proper reman they'd routinely check bearing/bushing wear for freeplay and smoothness. Perhaps it checked out, or at least barely. You'd also expected them to spin it up when they're done and check for full output, which hopefully would catch a noisy bearing, but perhaps the shop was noisy. It's hard to trust remans some days. It's hard to trust ratings. The reman shops may normally be good, but may be inconsistent if they don't pay attention to quality control. I prefer my local alternator/starter shop to do re-builds, but of course it takes longer unless they've got a core exchange on the shelf.

If you're concerned that dirt and/or water could get into the first alt through those broken spaces or the windings could otherwise get damaged then something like JB-Weld may be up to the task as a filler. It wouldn't have to be level except for looks. JB-Weld contains iron particles as I recall. I would then consider using a backing filler first, something non-conductive, perhaps a scrap of styrofoam, to avoid having anything conductive on the windings. Other epoxies wouldn't need it exept to save on amount used.
--
Dave -still with 940's, prev 740/240/140/120 You'd think I'd have learned by now

Hi,

I forgot to look at the spot you are concerned about. It’s smaller than my conclusion is here.

It sure looks like it was broken as a set since the outer and inner shoulder diameters are missing their pieces.

The housing on the left was the one that got hit and that broke the thinner inner lip of the right housing.
In being it’s so clean and finished up looking it was done before the tear down.
Since cores come without boxes normally into the auto parts stores, they the store ship them loose or in plastic flip top bins with starters, unless, you give up your new box to the store. Many stores want it that way but it’s the customers choice over any preconditions to get the core money credit.
So it most likely happened long before being rebuilt.

It’s interesting that both housing stayed together. So it goes to the credit of the Bosch rebuilders that the pieces are tracked as a unit. As it’s important not to mismatch them to keep the bearings bores aligned squarely.
Likewise, Before you take any electric motor apart you should scribe a line on the outside to keep the halves aligned.

If you didn’t see damage coming from outside of the box towards it I would say it was damaged during processing and long before packaging.
If you shake the unit and nothing rattles it’s probably ok.
The stator housing or outer windings pretty well seals off that inner joint from anything moving.

Another ticket to punch into the brain pan here is the fact that dismantlers crate up a hundreds of different alternators and starters to rebuilders.
Starter are heavier and more pointed on the same pallets.
It’s All a Wholesale Event using a $$ rate by poundage!

I have seen them with a cut off battery wires right at the B+ terminal.
For sure they are not handled very gently over into a big crate box.
It’s just scrap metal weight to them.
Junkyards make out far better if we pull something before they have too, plus no there’s no shipping to anyone. A junkyard core charge or exchange is the nice bonus either way!

There are more legal ways to take automobiles than there are illegal ways. (:) In Just One phrase “Total It.”
I heard one stat, how true I don’t know but 10,000 cars a day in California get their bodies are crushed up. Also In a day the US loses people @ 7,000 a day.

I guess we are ok? As it takes less time to make a car than birth out a human and the alternator, it has a warranty against defects! (:-)

Phil

I only want to point out that unlike alternators coming from a local parts house--or from an online source calling them "rebuilt" -- the Bosch brand calls their product "remanufactered" -- and there is a difference. The only one I would trust. The shops I worked in all used a distributor that only sold the Bosch remans. - Dave btw-I have no connection to the brand other than experience. :-)

if the brushes look uneven like the pic you might have a rough slip ring. Ive resurfaced them before and run for years, you can buy the slip wrings and install them or have an alternator do that. If they are rough the new brush will not last long.
I had similar issues before and replaced my alternator with another known good one I had onhand. I then found that the ground to engine block was a bad contact. it was under the waterpump, in that area.

you can quickly take a pair of jumper cables and carefully double up such connections while checking with a meter , to look for any bad connections or look for voltage and ground point differences with a meter. check engine block to ground that way.

i like to stick my battery posts in a jar of water mixed with lots of baking soda, leave them to bubble away, it does a nice job and also neutralizes any acid. then Il use a bit of sandpaper or steel wool to brighten them up. you can also put some electrolytic grease or battery post protective spray on them to prevent corrosion.

I'll also take a rag and soak it in baking soda and water. let dry then lay that under the battery to neutralize any acid that should migrate, It will prevent the battery box from rusting. you can wash your battery case with that just keep it well away from the top and the cells themselves , you dont want baking soda in the battery but that can save you a pair of jeans if you pick up the battery.

on some 240's they run wires near the front of the oilpan a bad area for oil contamination so they sometimes sort of rot out or have insulation cracks there you can check the condition of wire in such places where there is a lot of oil around.

near the fuel rail there are some important grounds under the bolts that hold down the fuel rail on my 240 and 740's worth cleaning them , a bad connection there can cause a no start.

Check your Voltage regulator brushes. They are a consumable item.
Just pull the VR off of the alternator and look at them and you'll know.
See Art Benstein's nice photo's.

The local alternator shop here quit soldering in brushes in Volvo (Bosch)
voltage regulators since they can get the whole unit so cheap.
They gave me a set of brushes free for my 740 alternator, and sold me a new one
for about $10.00 They say they need the Bosch part number and there's about six
different options for Volvo Alternators. Compare that to the wild prices at your favorite supplier for Volvo VR's.

Are you measuring battery voltage at the battery terminals?
Not to be confused with measuring at the battery cable connectors.
Put your meter directly on the battery anodes and come back with your
voltage readings with the engine off and with the engine running 2500 RPM
and the alternator charging.

Not all batteries are un-serviceable. I got an Allstate for my 850 two years ago from a good old fashioned local auto parts store and it had the usual features where you can check the electrolyte level and each cell with a hydrometer.
Fill it when needed only with distilled water and keep it from freezing when discharged and expect maybe eight years service life.

Good luck, Bill