I know this has been talked about, heck I'm sure I talked about it. Today I'm drawing a blank. Today, I turn the key and no fuel pump whir. I knew it wouldn't start as I always listen for the fuel rail to pressure up.
Swapped out fuel pump Relay, nothing. I am getting voltage across Fuse #6. I haven't slid under the car to bang the fuel pump yet. So, correct me if I'm wrong... Power goes from battery. To fuse 6 to relay to pump? I'm not counting the checks and balances with the CPS. I'm really Guessing a bad Pump.
Boy it's been a very long time since I was a daily visitor
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'75 Jeep CJ5 345Hp ChevyPwrd, two motorcycles, '85 Pickup: The '89 Volvo is the newest vehicle I own. it wasn't Volvos safety , it was Longevity that sold me http://home.lyse.net/brox/TonyPage4.html http://cleanflametrap.com/tony/

In an '89, fuse 6 does nothing. Power goes through the blade fuse under the hood to #30 on the fuel relay. When the relay is picked by the ECU power is delivered to the hot side of fuse 4 AND the main fuel pump. The fused side of #4 powers the tank pump and the oxygen sensor heater.

You can jump fuse 6 (which does have battery on it) to fuse 4 to see if the main pump itself works.



To be sure the power is getting to #30 on the relay, check for juice at the orange wire to the AMM when the key is on.





You still have a pink label -561 in that car Tony?? If so, that's another cause of no buzz with the initial key on.

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Art Benstein near Baltimore

Does running from my responsibilities count as cardio?

Had a second, this morning. Out a wire from fuse 4 to 6. Pump spun. Next time I'm close to my storage unit, i'll dig out 'computer'. Gee with the car only being 33 years old, who would expect this?
Honestly, after thinking about it, I think the computer is the original, problematic 561.
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'75 Jeep CJ5 345Hp ChevyPwrd, two motorcycles, '85 Pickup: The '89 Volvo is the newest vehicle I own. it wasn't Volvos safety , it was Longevity that sold me http://home.lyse.net/brox/TonyPage4.html http://cleanflametrap.com/tony/

That 4 to 6 jumper bypasses more than just the pink label syndrome, so I highly recommend you confirm the AMM is getting power at the orange wire before swapping ECU. It's a real time saver.

Something about your sig: If this '89 is still your newest car (it is in my case, both of them) what are you driving every day that you can take a leisurely approach to fixing this one? Good to hear you're getting near to moving.
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Art Benstein near Baltimore

"Remember in elementary school, you were told that in case of fire you have to line up quietly in a single file line from smallest to tallest. What is the logic in that? What, do tall people burn slower?" (Warren Hutcherson)

No voltage on orange wire with key in ON position. That confirms ECU issue?
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'75 Jeep CJ5 345Hp ChevyPwrd, two motorcycles, '85 Pickup: The '89 Volvo is the newest vehicle I own. it wasn't Volvos safety , it was Longevity that sold me http://home.lyse.net/brox/TonyPage4.html http://cleanflametrap.com/tony/

Nothing at the AMM orange wire with the key on points to the red wire and fuse under the hood. The usual issue is invisible corrosion in one of the 17 metal-to-metal junctions between the battery and your just-replaced fuel relay at the #30 terminal.

I would push the probe into that orange wire terminal on the AMM and start wiggling everything in that red wire until the meter/light came back on. You might want to trace the missing voltage starting at the other end of the red wire, at the fuel relay #30. Trace it with the key on, so there's a load.

240 Volvo Engine Management Fuse
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Art Benstein near Baltimore

"You can say any foolish thing to a dog, and the dog will give you a look that says, ''My God, you're right! I never would've thought of that!'" (Dave Barry)

With Key OFF. DVM from + terminal on battery to orange wire, I get battery voltage. Without ON, i have slightly less. You say i should have 12V on orange, yet it appears Wrigley off, it's a ground.
"All red wires" are you referring to the grouping on the fender?
I do have battery voltage on pin 30 at FPR. With key both off or on
I do have continuity from #85 (orange wire) to orange wire at amm. Sounds like my relay is bad. Relay should close bring voltage Groupon 30 topic 85, I think
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'75 Jeep CJ5 345Hp ChevyPwrd, two motorcycles, '85 Pickup: The '89 Volvo is the newest vehicle I own. it wasn't Volvos safety , it was Longevity that sold me http://home.lyse.net/brox/TonyPage4.html http://cleanflametrap.com/tony/

If you have battery at #30 with the key on, but none at #85 or #87/1 (orange wires), check relay #86/1 (yellow/black). With the key on, 86/1 should be near ground, supplied by the ECU. All measurements are referenced to ground, never to the + battery.

If you have a test light, you won't be fooled by the high impedance multimeter seeing voltage through a high resistance such as a corroded connection.

I have to check back in the thread, but I thought you said the fuel relay is new. Of course that doesn't mean it is good. Here's the circuit as it is in a '91, when the blade fuse was moved inside to #6, but aside from that path from the red wire the circuit is good for '89.







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Art Benstein near Baltimore

Not New FPR. Just resoldered and swapped out to verify it worked before putting it in glovebox next to Bulb Out Indicator red Can
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'75 Jeep CJ5 345Hp ChevyPwrd, two motorcycles, '85 Pickup: The '89 Volvo is the newest vehicle I own. it wasn't Volvos safety , it was Longevity that sold me http://home.lyse.net/brox/TonyPage4.html http://cleanflametrap.com/tony/

These days that's better than new. :)
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Art Benstein near Baltimore

I grabbed my test light and went thru the orange wire at MAS, I have 12v there and down at the relay. 12V at heavy red wire (30) If I'm reading this correctly, with the key ON, I should see 12V at 87-2 on the relay, yellow/red. Im not seeing that.
I did swap out the computer for giggles. Nope
Boy, I jump out fuse 4 to 6 and she fires up happy.
Very frustrating. honestly, I never had to troubleshoot this area.
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'75 Jeep CJ5 345Hp ChevyPwrd, two motorcycles, '85 Pickup: The '89 Volvo is the newest vehicle I own. it wasn't Volvos safety , it was Longevity that sold me http://home.lyse.net/brox/TonyPage4.html http://cleanflametrap.com/tony/

Except for the first 500 milliseconds after turning the key you won't see fuel pump operation unless you have spark signal into the fuel ECU.

Check for spark be squirting starting fluid into the fpr vacuum port on the intake manifold and cranking.

OK, I recall now you said it "fires up happy" when you jumper the fuses 4 to 6, bypassing the fuel relay.

Nothing on the red/yellow at 87/2 (or fuse 4) either says the fuel relay is broken or the ECU is not grounding the blue/green wire at 86/2 when it sees ignition pulses. The two relays in the white box are system relay and fuel relay.

I'm guessing if you watch the relay in action when you're cranking it, you'll see one of them energize (the system relay) and the other may not. If it doesn't, just hold the clapper to the magnet and see if the fuel flows and the car starts then.
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Art Benstein near Baltimore

“The only true wisdom is in knowing you know nothing.” -Socrates

I took a small grain of wheat from a pace that sells moddel railroad supplies and connected it to my fuel pump wires. ( in parallel) It lives down near the inner firewall now and glows to show me I have power at the pump.
if I have a no start issue checking if the pump has power is now as easy as looking at the light.

aside from the FI relay there is a black relay on my car that is located on the passenger strut tower int he engine bay near the watter bottle. that relay can shut off the engine if you pull it. I think it's designed to cut fuel or spark in a crash. I dont see similar on my 240's but I know if I yank it the engine quits.

near the drivers side firewall there is an engine fuse and near that the terminals for the coil , id clean those parts to make sure you have contact. there is a transistor in behind the air cleaner, check those connections too. I recently had an intermittent no spark issue on my 240 and I think it was the coil terminals were rusty or the spade connectors on the coil went green. it was causing no start issues. you cna put a test lamp across the coil or between the hot and ground to check if the coil is getting juice when you are starting.

TDC sensors fail sometimes. Id change that , newer cars have it on top of the bellhousing older ones have a sensor in the distributor that fails. the oil seems to seep up past the distributor shaft and pollute the area. if you crank you may see a pulse o the speedo or tach to verify it has this pulse, try observing that when it's working right so you know what normal loks like in regards to that pules just like you listen to the fuel pump relay click.

the fuel pump relay might be near the ECU and ICU above the passengers footwell. I think some older ones have it under the drivers feet where ti's a bit hidden. the one door intermittent wipers lives near it pull on the wires and it will appear from under the tin below the drivers foot mat at the left hand side.

those areas are susceptible to windshield leaks. for some reason I also find my heater blower motor was filling with water. It has some plastic that I removed so it can't fill up because the plastic can trap the motor full of water. I think there is some sort of cover where the vent is in front of the windshield that's not so hard to remove. below the grates or grilles from outside the car.. in there.. that whole cover removes easily it just has a few bolts then you lift it up and out then you can see these plastic covers.. check if the plastic lids are there and placed right if you see water int he drivers footwell area.

mine has the sunroof so I need to blow out the hoses that allow it to drain occasionally , I put soapy water in and blow the tubes out with compressed air, cherry pits and things can block the drain hose sometimes.

Well, I don't do much driving. But usually we do take the '99 Honda CRV. once a week to 4th own is about our length of driving. I take the Volvo to the firehouse meetings once a week. So, no biggy if I take a 1.5 mile walk to get there.
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'75 Jeep CJ5 345Hp ChevyPwrd, two motorcycles, '85 Pickup: The '89 Volvo is the newest vehicle I own. it wasn't Volvos safety , it was Longevity that sold me http://home.lyse.net/brox/TonyPage4.html http://cleanflametrap.com/tony/

Thanks Art.
I think I have a 951 in there. I've collected a few over the years as spares. I'll check. The 30 amp fuse is clean and good. I went there first.
Thanks for the info, I'll look around when I get time. Still working on my house build. Will be in the house in a few weeks. Not 100%, but kitchen and bathroom are functional.
Good to hear from you
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'75 Jeep CJ5 345Hp ChevyPwrd, two motorcycles, '85 Pickup: The '89 Volvo is the newest vehicle I own. it wasn't Volvos safety , it was Longevity that sold me http://home.lyse.net/brox/TonyPage4.html http://cleanflametrap.com/tony/