1989-1993 240 Central Lock Switch 3540135 / 1347547 Assembly

Conductor failure at the key lock switch. Nor the pull knob switch.

Assembly pulled from 1989 Volvo 350 at the Pick and Pull North in Spokane, WA in early October 2022.

The same assembly on my kittysgreyvolvo 1991 patina grey 240 sedan has the same insulation failure at where the three braided conductors secure to the rotating clip-on switch assembly controlled by the key lock with key inserted.

I pretend I'm back in one of my former 1970s 240s yet am wanting for k-jet.

Two images. Left-click the image and choose the "Open Image in New Window" for more detail in a larger image.

So, how to fix if anyone has? I'll guess this is a common issue? It was a popping corn action of the power lock relay that made me pull the fuse. Cleaned and lubed the door interior with some rust proofing. Removed the slumped dound deadening when in there. Drain hole okay.

Slather some flexible insulating goo over the bare braided conductor after some brake parts cleaner or other degrease action and reinstall?





eBay Auction for the same without failed conductor insulation for 275$.
https://www.ebay.com/p/1128882332

Tasca entry notes NLA. URL:
https://www.tascaparts.com/oem-parts/volvo-switch-3540135

Volvo Parts Webstore entry with 2D illustration.

https://www.volvopartswebstore.com/products/1134604/3540135.html



Now we know where the 240 door lock switcvh is located:


May Be Relevant LOL Kittehs Kats:










--
Beh.

Ahoy Beh,

I'm using 1985 240 central locking info and wonder how all three
leads of your switch look like they took a lightning hit.
Can you measure a short at the switch between any of the three pins?
I'd think a short at the switch would only toast two wires?

Does the toasted switch come apart?

Were the wires toasted or cut?
Maybe the wire insulation at the switch was destroyed by a Slim Jim?
Maybe by one of your rogue cats hopped up on sour buttermilk?

You might contact Dave Barton, 240 wiring guru.
https://www.davebarton.com/

Cheers, Bill

Hi B.B.

The wires are has is. Some air turbulence and exposure caused this in three decades. The sheathing is stiff, also.

Yes, the three wires shorted and made the relay rapidly pop and click the lock motors. The switch is find inside the round plastic shroud part. Yet I wonder about the rotating lock switch.

Wondering whether other folks have encountered this on this 1989-1992 or older central door lock systems on 240 or other RWD models.

THe 240 door interior is not so weather or wind tight!!!!

The wire moves and also flexes with the key turn to lock / unlock the driver door.

Eggnog Boyeeeeee with Buttermilk and Sourdough dreams while writing and illustrating and editing technically.
--

The wires are silicone insulated high strand count intended to survive flexing. The same wire was used in the 245 tailgate hinge harness, the wiring to the M47 reverse light switch, the AW-70 overdrive solenoid, and the 86+ vehicle speed sensor. In other words, anywhere the wiring needs to bridge two points that move with respect to each other. They don't survive.

Most folks coat the central locking switch wires with liquid electrical tape.

For not much money, you can unplug the connector above your left knee to disable the lock switches and replace the function with keyless entry. Here's my story:

http://cleanflametrap.com/keyless3.html

If you don't do something to fix this reliably, you'll wind up with a dead battery.
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore

To me "drink responsibly" means don't spill it.

Hiya Uncle Arty B.!

I removed this assembly from the 1991 when the relay was suffering the shorted wires.

The example images I pulled from a 1989 some weeks ago. To make a spare. I'll research your liquid electrical tape suggestion. The black sheath is sort of stiff at the bare braided wire end. Replaced the exterior window scrapers on all three 240s, so not so much water and wind gets in, I hope!

I'll also look up your keyless conversion you feature on your ever helpful site! I've read and heard stories about people defeating some car brands of wireless entry and engine start, though!!!

The wire sections you list are then a service item for all 240 owners, then. I used a 240 power aerial for the 1990 240 DL Wagon as bypass (for now). Sort of nice to have these reverse lights on when performing rear liftgate duties when the liftgate is open in low light conditions.

Hope you, Mrs. B., the family, and your deep-space TransWarp capable Volvo 240 armada are all in the finest of fettles!!! 🤗🤗🤗🤗🤗🤗🤗🤗🤗

Thank you!!! 🤗🤗🤗🤗🤗 Happy Eggnog holidays!!!

Technical Writin' Boyeeeeeeeeeeee
--
Beh.

hi,
yes, liquid electrical tape. always have some.

that's what i did years ago. still works today.

however, the wires get corroded in the wiring harness tumbler. not much to do after that.

i tried before and i have plans to continue trying to rewiring the tumbler, but it's not easy.

regards,
byron golden

Hi byron golden,

The braided wires in the tumbler that secure around the lock assembly appear okay.

Sort of like steering column u-joints, apply a lube and wrap to keep out the weather? I also have replacement exterior window scrapers on all four doors to at least limit weather and water intrusion.

I'll guess some turbulence inside the door when motoring the 240!

Thank you!

Mr. Vaccinated Against the COVID Omicron!
--
Beh.

Did you measure to see if the key switch is shorted inside?
If you got away without blowing the fuse there must be thermal cutouts in the lock motors, or maybe you put a penny in the fusebox.

If you decide to cut and repair with shrink tube and non-insulated butt connectors
be careful and buy only made in USA copper butt connectors.
Recently I had an adventure on ebay with a kit of 300 (3 sizes) shipped
from the USA. They were:
1. NOT copper
2. the wrong sizes for who knows what size wire
3. They had seams.
The vendor later claimed they were brass and looked like aluminum.
I tried to return as they were not as advertised, and the seller refused to send a shipping label, saying he'd return the postage and credit together. NOPE!
I beefed to Ebay and it turned out that it was a Chinese merchant and he expected me to ship his rubbish back to China. Yikes!
Postage to China costs an arm and a leg, there's no tracking and he would have claimed that he never received them. This happened several years ago with some LED headlights, maybe the same rude dude?

The good news is that Ebay decided that I got a refund and can keep the junk.
I reordered at slightly more from a place in Texas, and got the real McCoy.

You can replace that crummy combo trunk light and 10-watt heater
with an LED panel and have super light in back.
Here's one option with 5 panels and socket adapters including the trunk festoon lamp/heater.
Don't ever grab a hot trunk light, it's bad for your buttermilky fingers.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/283975046870

Good luck with fixing that, no way you gotta cough up 275 clams, Bill

Hi B.B.!

Sure happy it's eggnog Friday!

I'll test the pull knob switch for short, yet the bare braided wires at the tumbler are the culprit.

I'll use the liquid tape for now when I have the chance. So manual locks in the 1991 kitty's grey volvo 340.

All very 1985 244 DL yet no M40 and no 'metric' B20 with K-Jet in the 1991 US Market 240.

My the 1975 233 DL. Want to go slower as it did. No need to go faster. One car length for each 10 MPH on the speedo + an extra car length. The high school back seat driver mates would say that I drive "like a little old man in my little old man car" in the 1975 244 DL in 1985 or so.

Thank you!
--
Beh.